derek guy Profile picture
Dec 27 11 tweets 5 min read
THOUGHTS ON CREATING GOOD OUTFITS 🧵

A good outfit, to me, tells a story about the person. It's not just a collection of cool stuff, haphazard items, or about just following rules. Personality, lifestyle, culture, and identity all come into play. Examples from IG:
Marco is a motorcyclist, dancer, and fashion dude who likes to go to warehouse parties in LA. His style is bohemian and expressive; he wears a lot of niche Japanese fashion. What looks haphazard is actually culturally legible if you're into this sort of scene.

IG marco.pants
Mark Maggiori is a French-American painter who specializes in painting paintings of American cowboys, Native Americans, and the American Southwest. So, of course, his dress heavily leans into Westernwear and workwear.

IG markmaggiori
Tom Chen is an interior designer who lives a pretty grand lifestyle full of beautiful rooms, spacious gardens, and picturesque estates. His unusually colorful wardrobe (pants in sage, periwinkle, and lemon) fits the surroundings and his persona.

IG tomstation
I don't like commenting on outfits I dislike and avoid doing so when it involves reg ppl. But sometimes, a contrasting example is useful. Peterson here is wearing the same color pants as Tom above, but his personality is too severe. Tailoring is also too slim; it betrays effort
Jeffery is a brooding art critic and collector of vintage things. He attends parties in global cities around the world. If you talk to him, he also has a certain mysteriousness about him. His style leans heavily into dark colors, 70s style, & moody elements.

IG therapeuticwhale
He obvs doesn't have an IG, but Robert Mueller is one of the best-dressed men in government. His style is genuinely classic, conservative, and true to his WASP roots. No-nonsense white button-down, trady sack suit, dark foulard tie. Backward watch reveals his time in the military
Again, by contrast, Roger Stone's attire comes off as clownish. He claims to like classic menswear, but his actual style is festooned with too many gimmicky elements. Cutaway collar, exploding pocket squares, lapel chain, goofy glasses, etc. Comes off as a costume
~70 yrs ago, the scope of what men could wear was much narrower. Many stylistic choices were governed by time, place, and occasion. But even then, there were style tribes—trads vs. rebels, mods vs. rockers, etc.
Sometimes you see guys put together outfits that are wholly creative and culturally don't mean anything. There are too many weird, contrasting, nonsensical elements. Fun socks with a serious suit; Western-yoked tweed with shiny tie and trendy small collar.
Other times, you see guys wear things according to the rules or trends, but the outfits don't suit their lifestyle. They look like they're wearing someone else's clothes. When creating an outfit, tell a story. Think about the cultural meaning of clothes & how ur clothes suit you.

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More from @dieworkwear

Dec 25
how to tell if a cashmere knit is high quality

1. cheap cashmere is coated w chemicals, so when ur in a store, bring the sweater up to ur nose & smell it
2. rub it across ur lips to see if it's greasy
3. put the sleeve in ur mouth & taste it
4. now gently chew
5. eat the sleeve
natural fibers, such as those derived from plants and animals, break down in the digestive tract. synthetics & treated fibers do not. once you've eaten the sleeve, wait till u poop it out. smoosh thru poop to see if you see if u can find a fiber. if u do, the knit is low quality
u at 3am
Read 4 tweets
Dec 23
WHERE YOU CAN BUY THE BEST OF ANY CLOTHING ITEM 🧵

Every once in a while, someone will ask me, "where can I buy the best version of X?" It can be jeans or chinos or shirts or whatever. It's impossible to answer this question bc so much depends on your aesthetic
Fashion is not like electronics in the sense that you can just max out quality for any given price point. The idea of quality is often much more nebulous than many people assume. Handsewn buttonholes are a sign of "quality," but do you need handsewn buttonholes? Prob not.
Quality also doesn't necessarily just mean physical durability. These days, an item's design is more likely to wear out before the seams. Is the item trendy? Will you fall out of love with it? Will you *love* wearing this 10 yrs from now?

dieworkwear.com/2020/08/01/on-…
Read 11 tweets
Dec 21
thanks to @ChavieLieber and @wongalum for including me in their @WSJ article on cashmere knitwear!

wsj.com/articles/sweat…
the quote tweets to this are so delicious, i hope it inspires at least two more 8 min videos of someone ranting about me

lots of ppl are angry that they can't buy whatever they want for the lowest possible price, and use economic class to justify their positions (e.g., "you hate poor people"). but taking a hard look at how much things *should* cost is good for labor and the environment.
Read 5 tweets
Dec 6
HOW BIG ARE THE PROFIT MARGINS IN FASHION? 🧵

Someone recently made a TikTok about the Brick Watch Company debacle, and one of the channel's viewers asked how this is any different from other luxury companies making things for pennies and selling them for thousands. Image
The guys in the video give a two-part answer. First, they say the price is whatever the market will bear. If someone wants to pay $800 for a t-shirt, then the t-shirt is worth $800. Second, marketing and branding set the price. Why do ppl pay $$$ for an LV tee? Cause of the name. Image
There's some truth in this—fashion is partly about fantasy, branding, and identity. But such facile generalizations don't capture the full story. It also exaggerates things, such as claiming Nike shoes cost $3 to make.

So what are the real profit margins in fashion? Image
Read 25 tweets
Dec 1
This video seems unfair. The person making the video rides the line between saying Saffiano is fine, but also kinda bad. This is 🫤

A quick thread 🧵
First, what is Saffiano leather? It's an Italian leather that has been hot stamped with a grain and then coated to protect the surface. Technically, this is a corrected grain leather.

What is corrected grain?
Leather generally comes in two types: full grain, which is the natural grain of the animal, and then corrected grain, where imperfections are removed and then coated with some finish. You generally want to avoid cheap corrected grain shoes bc they don't age well. See here:
Read 19 tweets
Nov 30
"You don't have to read fashion magazines. When you wake up in the morning, open the window and look outside. A guy who can cook rice is 100 times cooler." —Yukio Akamine

mononcle.jp ImageImageImageImage
"Young people today don't know gift culture. Don't arrive at someone's home empty-handed. Buy something you've eaten and thought was delicious. Take it out of the bag, hold it with both hands, and say, 'please enjoy this.' Or wrap it in a furoshiki." ImageImageImageImage
"High armholes allow for movement, but this has been taken too far lately. It doesn't make sense if you can't wear a knit under your jacket. I'm embarrassed by how many ppl wear jackets w narrow shoulders. The width of your jacket's shoulders should be wider than your shoulders." ImageImage
Read 4 tweets

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