derek guy Profile picture
Dec 28, 2022 9 tweets 4 min read Read on X
The beauty of looking at fashion through the lens of culture and visual language is that you can then recognize that lots of people are stylish, so long as you can read their cultural language. (Although this doesn't mean that everyone is stylish and anything goes) 🧵
When you look at 20th-century fashion, power flipped from elites (e.g., British aristocrats, Italian industrialists, and Hollywood actors) to everyday people (e.g., punks, rebels, rockers, hippies, and such) after the Second World Ear. These ppl gave their styles meaning.
One of the great, untold stories about 20th-century fashion is how the Army Navy surplus store served as a fashion boutique. It was here where youths picked up army-issued chinos, naval-issued chambray shirts, fatigues, and military jackets.
Here are some young ppl wearing leather jackets outside a cinema in Paris, France (November 1961). The clothes were likely picked up at military surplus stores, which had excess bomber jackets post-war. You can still dress like this today.
Something I try to emphasize in my writing is that fashion is a language. I dislike it when ppl think only one language is legitimate (e.g., classic tailoring). There are many diff languages, each tied to culture, and the world becomes a richer place when u learn diff languages.
You can still dress well today on a budget, so long as you're open to diff languages. Consider budget-friendly aesthetics such as workwear, or learn how to shop at thrift stores. Some ideas on how to build a quality wardrobe on a budget here:

putthison.com/is-it-classist…
Another example of great fashion by ppl with little money is this quote from the film Paris is Burning:

“Those balls are more or less our fantasy of being a superstar, like at the Oscars or being a runway on the model. A lot of those kids don’t have two of nothing. [...]
[...] Some of them don’t even eat, they come to the balls starving. They sleep at Under 21 or the piers; they don’t have a home to go to. But they’ll go out and steal something to get dressed to go to the ball for that one night.”
You can see in this quote two dynamics:

1. Stylish ppl are often intentional about clothes. They know the language

2. Culture gives fashion meaning. These looks are cool not bc of some abstracted art theory, but bc of who wears them and what they do

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More from @dieworkwear

Feb 7
Your suggestions are shit ass.

Let me tell you about backpacks. 🧵 Image
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out"). Image
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I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Read 18 tweets
Feb 5
It's true that Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney has a rounded back and forward pitched shoulders. But let me show you something. 🧵
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:

— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.

Why do Poilievre's jackets fit like this? Image
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Read 11 tweets
Jan 18
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.

In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.

On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Dec 18, 2025
A story I found about Haiti:

In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵 Image
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In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink. Image
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The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.

Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard. Image
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Read 5 tweets
Dec 1, 2025
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
First, who is Caroline Groves?

Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this. Image
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In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional." Image
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Read 18 tweets
Nov 29, 2025
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.

Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵 Image
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric Image
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Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor. Image
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Read 24 tweets

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