derek guy Profile picture
Dec 28, 2022 9 tweets 4 min read Read on X
The beauty of looking at fashion through the lens of culture and visual language is that you can then recognize that lots of people are stylish, so long as you can read their cultural language. (Although this doesn't mean that everyone is stylish and anything goes) 🧵
When you look at 20th-century fashion, power flipped from elites (e.g., British aristocrats, Italian industrialists, and Hollywood actors) to everyday people (e.g., punks, rebels, rockers, hippies, and such) after the Second World Ear. These ppl gave their styles meaning.
One of the great, untold stories about 20th-century fashion is how the Army Navy surplus store served as a fashion boutique. It was here where youths picked up army-issued chinos, naval-issued chambray shirts, fatigues, and military jackets.
Here are some young ppl wearing leather jackets outside a cinema in Paris, France (November 1961). The clothes were likely picked up at military surplus stores, which had excess bomber jackets post-war. You can still dress like this today.
Something I try to emphasize in my writing is that fashion is a language. I dislike it when ppl think only one language is legitimate (e.g., classic tailoring). There are many diff languages, each tied to culture, and the world becomes a richer place when u learn diff languages.
You can still dress well today on a budget, so long as you're open to diff languages. Consider budget-friendly aesthetics such as workwear, or learn how to shop at thrift stores. Some ideas on how to build a quality wardrobe on a budget here:

putthison.com/is-it-classist…
Another example of great fashion by ppl with little money is this quote from the film Paris is Burning:

“Those balls are more or less our fantasy of being a superstar, like at the Oscars or being a runway on the model. A lot of those kids don’t have two of nothing. [...]
[...] Some of them don’t even eat, they come to the balls starving. They sleep at Under 21 or the piers; they don’t have a home to go to. But they’ll go out and steal something to get dressed to go to the ball for that one night.”
You can see in this quote two dynamics:

1. Stylish ppl are often intentional about clothes. They know the language

2. Culture gives fashion meaning. These looks are cool not bc of some abstracted art theory, but bc of who wears them and what they do

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More from @dieworkwear

Jun 20
It's true that progressives valorize "ugliness." But I think this person doesn't interrogate this position enough and thus lands at the wrong conclusion.

Let me give you a new perspective on ugliness. 🧵 Image
In popular discourse, the world was once good, people were virtuous, and all things were beautiful. Then modernity came along and destroyed everything. In this view, beauty is an objective standard that has been corrupted by liberalism. Image
I contend that beauty in personal appearance is subjective, not objective. In fact, its standards rest on the shifting tectonic plates of politics, economics, and technology. Let me give you examples.

Today, we think of these photos as the standard for male beauty and dress: Image
Image
Read 21 tweets
Jun 19
Earlier this week, I asked which tie knot you think looks better. Of course, you can wear whichever you like. But here's the social history behind both knots and why some people consider one better than the other. 🧵
In the mid-19th century, as ready-to-wear tailoring started to take form, people got around in horse-drawn carriages. After all, the car had not yet been invented. During this time, some formed driving clubs, where they rode drags.

Check out the text in this lithograph: Image
The term "drag" refers to the carriage you see above, which was a sporting vehicle that was lighter than the more robust stagecoach. Men in driving clubs raced drags. Hence the term "drag race" first appearing in an 1863 issue of Racing Times. Image
Read 20 tweets
Jun 17
People keep asking me to do a thread breaking down why these suits don't look great. I gather that these are famous, very well accomplished F1 drivers (I don't know these people). Since I only talk about famous people, I will do a thread. 🧵 Image
Please note nothing in this thread is meant to diminish the men in these clothes. If anything, it's the people who dressed them that failed them. I am only talking about the clothes. Hopefully, by pointing out these issues, you will learn something for when you're shopping.
A pinstripe suit with a white business shirt cries out for tie. If you don't want to wear a tie, then you need a more casual shirt or a more casual suit. Additionally, the shoes are too chunky for this outfit. Image
Read 19 tweets
Jun 14
The US Army celebrated its 250th year today with a massive parade in Washington, DC. It appears @ComfortablySmug believes that this is an appropriate tie for the occasion.

I disagree and I'll tell you why. 🧵
It's once again worth reminding that men's dress used to be governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social station and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear a certain outfit.

This tradition can be seen in men's neckwear.
In Britain, where we derive most of our traditions for classic men's dress, the term "regimental stripe" refers to neckwear with diagonal lines, like you see below. These were not purely about decoration. Each design symbolized belonging to some organization. Image
Read 11 tweets
Jun 14
I think Brad Pitt's suit is interesting. And I'll tell you why. 🧵
This is the suit in question. It's a bespoke suit by Anderson & Sheppard in London. The cloth is a 60/40 mohair-wool blend from Standeven's "Carnival" book. The stylist was George Cortina.

To understand why this suit is interesting, you have to know a bit about tailoring history
In the early 20th century, Dutch-English tailor Frederick Scholte noticed that a man could be made to look more athletic if he belted up his guard's coat, puffing out the chest and nipping the waist. So he built this idea into his patterns. Thus the "drape cut" war born. Image
Read 19 tweets
Jun 10
This is untrue.

I see you're a luxury watch dealer. I'm also interested in watches. Let me show you how free and easy migration has allowed you to earn a living. 🧵
In 1881, Hans Wilsdorf was born in Bavaria, then part of Germany, to parents who died not long after he was born. At a young age, Wilsdorf set off into the world. He landed in England in 1903, which at the time had virtually no formal immigration controls. Image
Image
Lucky for him. Two years later, fear of poor Eastern European Jews flooding the UK led to 1905 Aliens Act, which moved the country from an open-door policy to one of stricter control. This was the first British law that labeled certain migrants as "undesirable." Image
Read 19 tweets

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