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derek guy Profile picture
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Dec 28 • 6 tweets • 3 min read
it's weird to me that Andrew Tate markets himself as a defender of traditional masculinity but dresses like an early 2000s "metrosexual" gay dude
i feel like we've totally forgotten how gays and hipsters pushed back against gender stereotypes of the 90s by wearing super slim pants and were ridiculed for being effeminate. this was a "gay" look in the early 2000s.
reject modernity » embrace tradition
some people have taken this as some kind of weird jab at tate's sexuality, which it is not. there's nothing wrong with dressing in a non-heteronormative manner. i just find it weird to build your brand around heteronormativity but dress in an early 2000s metrosexual style
people interested in reading more about this can check out this post I wrote about how a lot of gay fashion goes mainstream.

putthison.com/straight-copyi…

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy Profile picture
Dec 29
There are a lot of guys who think that custom tailoring is necessarily better than RTW, but a lot of custom tailoring is quite bad. Some telltale signs: 🧵
1. The shoulder divot on the upper sleeve suggests the back is too tight

2. Sleeve has lots of wrinkles around the bicep. Looks too small for the arm.

3. Lapels are buckling away from the chest, suggesting the chest is too small. Lapels should lay flat on the chest. ImageImage
There's also something called the balance of a coat, of which there are four. One of the more important balance issues is front-back balance. Tristen here has a prominent chest, and as you can see, this causes front of the coat to ride up on him. Image
Read 10 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Dec 28
The beauty of looking at fashion through the lens of culture and visual language is that you can then recognize that lots of people are stylish, so long as you can read their cultural language. (Although this doesn't mean that everyone is stylish and anything goes) 🧵
When you look at 20th-century fashion, power flipped from elites (e.g., British aristocrats, Italian industrialists, and Hollywood actors) to everyday people (e.g., punks, rebels, rockers, hippies, and such) after the Second World Ear. These ppl gave their styles meaning.
One of the great, untold stories about 20th-century fashion is how the Army Navy surplus store served as a fashion boutique. It was here where youths picked up army-issued chinos, naval-issued chambray shirts, fatigues, and military jackets.
Read 9 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Dec 27
THOUGHTS ON CREATING GOOD OUTFITS 🧵

A good outfit, to me, tells a story about the person. It's not just a collection of cool stuff, haphazard items, or about just following rules. Personality, lifestyle, culture, and identity all come into play. Examples from IG:
Marco is a motorcyclist, dancer, and fashion dude who likes to go to warehouse parties in LA. His style is bohemian and expressive; he wears a lot of niche Japanese fashion. What looks haphazard is actually culturally legible if you're into this sort of scene.

IG marco.pants
Mark Maggiori is a French-American painter who specializes in painting paintings of American cowboys, Native Americans, and the American Southwest. So, of course, his dress heavily leans into Westernwear and workwear.

IG markmaggiori
Read 11 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Dec 25
how to tell if a cashmere knit is high quality

1. cheap cashmere is coated w chemicals, so when ur in a store, bring the sweater up to ur nose & smell it
2. rub it across ur lips to see if it's greasy
3. put the sleeve in ur mouth & taste it
4. now gently chew
5. eat the sleeve
natural fibers, such as those derived from plants and animals, break down in the digestive tract. synthetics & treated fibers do not. once you've eaten the sleeve, wait till u poop it out. smoosh thru poop to see if you see if u can find a fiber. if u do, the knit is low quality
u at 3am
Read 4 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Dec 23
WHERE YOU CAN BUY THE BEST OF ANY CLOTHING ITEM 🧵

Every once in a while, someone will ask me, "where can I buy the best version of X?" It can be jeans or chinos or shirts or whatever. It's impossible to answer this question bc so much depends on your aesthetic
Fashion is not like electronics in the sense that you can just max out quality for any given price point. The idea of quality is often much more nebulous than many people assume. Handsewn buttonholes are a sign of "quality," but do you need handsewn buttonholes? Prob not.
Quality also doesn't necessarily just mean physical durability. These days, an item's design is more likely to wear out before the seams. Is the item trendy? Will you fall out of love with it? Will you *love* wearing this 10 yrs from now?

dieworkwear.com/2020/08/01/on-…
Read 11 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Dec 21
thanks to @ChavieLieber and @wongalum for including me in their @WSJ article on cashmere knitwear!

wsj.com/articles/sweat…
the quote tweets to this are so delicious, i hope it inspires at least two more 8 min videos of someone ranting about me

lots of ppl are angry that they can't buy whatever they want for the lowest possible price, and use economic class to justify their positions (e.g., "you hate poor people"). but taking a hard look at how much things *should* cost is good for labor and the environment.
Read 5 tweets

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