in the 90s, Colossus of Roads seemed to have hit every freight train in America. his graffiti style took after the pictograms that early 20th-century hobos used while illegally hopping freights to visit various towns, often in search of work.
many of these people were illiterate, so they used coded pictograms to represent certain things. a drawing could mean "a kind woman lives here" or "cops patrol this yard." these messages made an illegal and dangerous passage safer for fellow travelers.
during the 90s, freight hoppers also passed around DIY pamphlets to help fellow travelers find their way around the US by illegally hopping freight cars (although using words, not pictograms). if you visited these train yards during this time, you'd also see a lot of graffiti
one of the most prolific was Colossus of Roads. some suspected he was a railway engineer, given how often you'd see his tag on freight cars.
Colossus of Roads always did the same tag: a side profile of a cowboy whizzing down the line with some kind of message underneath. many of these messages didn't make any sense to the passerby, which made him more mysterious. i later learned he just made them up on the spot.
anyway, he was a bit of a childhood hero for me, and about ten years ago, i bumped into his nephew on a clothing forum. he apparently lives in Arizona now and is super nice. i asked him if he would autograph the back of my Schott double rider. he agreed.
I sent him my Schott, and he sent it back. I then had the interior relined with an early 20th-century Japanese sashiko fabric I bought from an NYC antiques dealer. Sashiko is a type of Japanese fabric that has been repaired using patches and running stitches.
If you're looking for a leather jacket, try:
1. Schott Perfecto. They've done collabs with @3sixteen 2. Fine Creek Leathers at @selfedge 3. Margiela five-zip. Cool modern vibe 4. Valstar at @NoManWalksAlone. Less rugged, slightly dressier 5. Stoffa. Classic, but interesting
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Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.
Which do you think looks better?
If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better?
The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole.
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.
Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.
IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.
Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.
This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵
I should state two things at the outset.
First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide.
Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste.
Sometimes I think about the closure of G. Lorenzi, a Milanese gentleman's shop that had been around for almost 100 years until their closure in 2014. The shop was special because it carried so many one-of-a-kind items from artisans — total handmade craft production, not factory.
At the time of their closure, they still carried over 20,000 items of 3,000 models, including speciality knives, picnic sets, and nutcrackers. They had over 100 styles of nail clippers and 300 different hairbrushes alone. Proprietor Aldo Lorenzi scoured the world for artisans.
There's nothing wrong with factory production. But as more of our lives get taken over by machines — including art and writing — this sort of production feels special.
Trailer for "A Knife Life," a documentary about the store by my friend Gianluca Migliarotti, available on Vimeo
I spent 15 yrs on a menswear forum. The longest argument I had was over a tiny detail that can be seen in this photo. For 6 months, I argued with the same five guys non-stop every day. The argument got so heated the forum owner banned one guy for life.
As I've mentioned before, there's a lot of coded language in menswear. Navy suits can be worn with black oxfords because this was the uniform of London businessmen. Brown tweeds go with brogues because these clothes were worn in the country. In this way, we get formal vs. casual.
The same is true for shoes. Tiny details come together to communicate something, much like how words form a sentence. Black is more formal than brown; calfskin more formal than suede or pebble grain; plain design is more formal than broguing. All of this stems from history.
The year is 2024 and you're browsing for a new shirt online. You come across a store selling shirts from Portuguese Flannel. You do your research and find they make quality garments: clean single-needle stitching, flat felled seams, quality fabrics, MOP buttons, classic designs
So you go ahead and purchase one. The shop charges 139 Euros and throws in free shipping. Given the exchange rate in 2024, that means you paid $163.19.