derek guy Profile picture
Jan 31, 2023 9 tweets 6 min read Read on X
i once bought a vintage Schott leather jacket and had one of my childhood heroes—Colossus of Roads—tag the back of it
in the 90s, Colossus of Roads seemed to have hit every freight train in America. his graffiti style took after the pictograms that early 20th-century hobos used while illegally hopping freights to visit various towns, often in search of work.
many of these people were illiterate, so they used coded pictograms to represent certain things. a drawing could mean "a kind woman lives here" or "cops patrol this yard." these messages made an illegal and dangerous passage safer for fellow travelers.
during the 90s, freight hoppers also passed around DIY pamphlets to help fellow travelers find their way around the US by illegally hopping freight cars (although using words, not pictograms). if you visited these train yards during this time, you'd also see a lot of graffiti
one of the most prolific was Colossus of Roads. some suspected he was a railway engineer, given how often you'd see his tag on freight cars.
Colossus of Roads always did the same tag: a side profile of a cowboy whizzing down the line with some kind of message underneath. many of these messages didn't make any sense to the passerby, which made him more mysterious. i later learned he just made them up on the spot.
anyway, he was a bit of a childhood hero for me, and about ten years ago, i bumped into his nephew on a clothing forum. he apparently lives in Arizona now and is super nice. i asked him if he would autograph the back of my Schott double rider. he agreed.
I sent him my Schott, and he sent it back. I then had the interior relined with an early 20th-century Japanese sashiko fabric I bought from an NYC antiques dealer. Sashiko is a type of Japanese fabric that has been repaired using patches and running stitches.
If you're looking for a leather jacket, try:

1. Schott Perfecto. They've done collabs with @3sixteen
2. Fine Creek Leathers at @selfedge
3. Margiela five-zip. Cool modern vibe
4. Valstar at @NoManWalksAlone. Less rugged, slightly dressier
5. Stoffa. Classic, but interesting

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More from @dieworkwear

Feb 7
Your suggestions are shit ass.

Let me tell you about backpacks. 🧵 Image
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out"). Image
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I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Read 18 tweets
Feb 5
It's true that Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney has a rounded back and forward pitched shoulders. But let me show you something. 🧵
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:

— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.

Why do Poilievre's jackets fit like this? Image
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Read 11 tweets
Jan 18
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.

In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.

On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Dec 18, 2025
A story I found about Haiti:

In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵 Image
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In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink. Image
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The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.

Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard. Image
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Read 5 tweets
Dec 1, 2025
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
First, who is Caroline Groves?

Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this. Image
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In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional." Image
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Read 18 tweets
Nov 29, 2025
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.

Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵 Image
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric Image
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Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor. Image
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Read 24 tweets

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