in the 90s, Colossus of Roads seemed to have hit every freight train in America. his graffiti style took after the pictograms that early 20th-century hobos used while illegally hopping freights to visit various towns, often in search of work.
many of these people were illiterate, so they used coded pictograms to represent certain things. a drawing could mean "a kind woman lives here" or "cops patrol this yard." these messages made an illegal and dangerous passage safer for fellow travelers.
during the 90s, freight hoppers also passed around DIY pamphlets to help fellow travelers find their way around the US by illegally hopping freight cars (although using words, not pictograms). if you visited these train yards during this time, you'd also see a lot of graffiti
one of the most prolific was Colossus of Roads. some suspected he was a railway engineer, given how often you'd see his tag on freight cars.
Colossus of Roads always did the same tag: a side profile of a cowboy whizzing down the line with some kind of message underneath. many of these messages didn't make any sense to the passerby, which made him more mysterious. i later learned he just made them up on the spot.
anyway, he was a bit of a childhood hero for me, and about ten years ago, i bumped into his nephew on a clothing forum. he apparently lives in Arizona now and is super nice. i asked him if he would autograph the back of my Schott double rider. he agreed.
I sent him my Schott, and he sent it back. I then had the interior relined with an early 20th-century Japanese sashiko fabric I bought from an NYC antiques dealer. Sashiko is a type of Japanese fabric that has been repaired using patches and running stitches.
If you're looking for a leather jacket, try:
1. Schott Perfecto. They've done collabs with @3sixteen 2. Fine Creek Leathers at @selfedge 3. Margiela five-zip. Cool modern vibe 4. Valstar at @NoManWalksAlone. Less rugged, slightly dressier 5. Stoffa. Classic, but interesting
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Tiffany and Nike announced a collab today, leading to a lot of debate on Twitter (does it suck, does it not suck). I think it sucks, but want to use the launch to talk about how fashion brands—especially luxury ones—eventually die
For this, I'll focus on a single case study: Brooks Brothers (BB). Most ppl today don't think of BB as a luxury company, but they used to dress presidents, preps, and members of the professional-managerial class. They "personified East Coast success in the Kennedy vein."
At their limestone flagship on Madison Avenue, they shaped American style by introducing British tweeds, Shetland knits, unlined button-down collars, camelhair polo coats, bleeding madras, & reverse rep-striped ties to these shores. They even invented RTW manufacturing for suits!
my earnest, non-snarky take is that these types of blogs and youtube channels are not very informative (as evidenced by how AI can easily replicate such info), but they can be a way for someone who hates their current job to hone their skills in another field
painful to see tiffany go from making beautiful things with elsa peretti to shoehorning themselves into every pop culture/ "streetwear" trend, like so many other companies that have lost confidence and are now flailing around trying to capture young luxury money
tiffany used to sell some really wonderful gift items—tiny spoons for expecting mothers, elegant money clip for new college graduates, jewelry for moms, etc. but like so many other luxury brands, they've fallen victim to two things:
1. designs become more generic as the brand grows. early 20th cent LV luggage was beautifully made; Hermes used to sell many more designs than Birken. But over time, these companies figure out what sells, and they just keep doing diff versions of that (e.g. Tiffany charms).
empire state building just lit up to honor of ppl who wear navy suits with black shoes instead of tan
tan shoes almost always draw the eye downwards. in a classic tailored outfit, the focus should be on the intersection between your shirt, coat, and tie. tan shoes often create two competing points of attention and scream from under your trouser cuffs.
here are 2 outfits. dan roan is wearing a navy sport coat, charcoal trousers, and tan shoes. shoes are distracting and draw eye downward. lance armstrong is wearing the exact same outfit, but with dark brown shoes. shoes harmonize w outfit and keep viewer's attention on his face
There are gross elements in every historical aesthetic. Suits can be reduced to the rise of the Second British Empire. Ivy style is associated with privileges derived from inherited wealth. But when you dig deeper into these aesthetics, their histories are more complicated 🧵
The cowboy/girl aesthetic appeals bc it reference a type of American character: self-reliance, resourcefulness, practicality, optimism, and rugged individualism. You can trace this association back to Frederick Turner's thesis on the origins of American identity & polity.
Turner believed that Americans' experience on the frontier made them particularly self-reliant and uninterested in social hierarchies. It didn't matter if you were a titled Duke on the frontier, as every person had to survive. American politics and identity grew out of this
I realize everyone and their mom is aware of French chore coats now, but they're one of the best budget-friendly outerwear options. Available in every size. Look their best when they're beat-up and in a wonky fit. Cooler than peacoats. Cost $50-75
Quilted liners also work great as standalone jackets. These were originally designed to fit into surplus jackets made for US, UK, French, and Czech (my favorite) militaries. I love them best in green, but some Etsy sellers dye them in cool colors. Cost $50-75
Future Farmers of America (FFA) jackets. Made from corduroy and features cool chainstitching. A bit hyped after Aime Leon Dore released their version, but still cool. Looks best when they're not too tight. Wear with jeans, painter pants, chinos, fatigues, and work boots. ~$100