derek guy Profile picture
Feb 22 7 tweets 5 min read
for men, i think one of the challenges of shopping vintage is getting past the idea that you're going to replicate some hot trendy look (which is often created through designer brands and the influencers on their payroll). it helps to be ok with other aesthetics 🧵
Ivy, workwear, and Americana are the easiest looks to create through a thrift store. a couple of years ago, I interviewed Brian at Wooden Sleepers about things he thinks are better second-hand: chamois shirts, heritage knits, A2 deck jackets, '90s Levis 501s. this stuff is cheap
I remember he recommended old Brooks Brothers OCBDs. I said, "don't those things fit big?" He said, "yea, but when you look at old photos of BB shirts, that's how a lot of guys wore them. You put them on and think, 'oh yea, that's THE look."
I learned I had to see things from a different angle and not be so narrow-minded about how a shirt is supposed to fit. Brian suggested pairing them with military khakis or fatigues, so you don't evoke that baggy 90s-era business casual look. Think outside the box.
my impression is that some guys see this stuff and they think, "i don't want to look poor" or "i don't want to look boring." if you're going into a thrift store with the idea that you're going to walk out looking like a Cucinelli lookbook or find Rick Owens, ur gonna be bummed
anyway, i obvs think you should buy stuff from my buddy Brian. he offers great service and sizing advice. my go-to jacket is a Lee 101J, notoriously hard to size cause it's short. but brian found me the right one. i love the oxford shirting repair he did on the collar—hint of Ivy
you can read my two interviews with brian below. we covered 20 things you can look for at thrift shops—10 for spring/summer and 10 for fall/winter. if you don't want to hunt for this stuff, hit up Brian at IG woodensleepers. he's got the goods

putthison.com/tag/better-wit…

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More from @dieworkwear

Feb 22
CREATING HARMONY IN AN OUTFIT

Want to do a quick thread about harmony bc I feel like this concept is useful in answering a lot of style-related questions: can you wear sneakers with a suit? Can you go sockless? What color shoes go with what? Etc. 🧵
First, what is harmony? Harmony is the idea that each part of your outfit works in concert with each other, creating a pleasing whole. A Chicago tailor once explained this to me as, "you don't want distracting elements in your outfit, as this detracts from you as a wearer."
1. Harmony in Formality

Let's run through the different types of harmony, starting with formality. Each element in your outfit should harmonize in terms of formality, going from the top of your head to your toes. Let's start with sneakers and suits.
Read 19 tweets
Feb 12
I can't remember if I've posted these photos before. But in the 1950s, French photographer Denise Colomb documented the Parisian art scene by shooting portraits of various artists using her Rolleiflex. The portraits are not only cool, but they also have some inspiring outfits. 🧵
Bernard Buffet, French Expressionist and member of the anti-abstract art group L'homme Témoin (the Witness-Man), drinking at Café 'Chez Constant" in 1950.

A similar coat can be found on eBay using the term "French hunting coat." Wear it with chunky Aran knits, boots, and jeans
Joan Miró was a Catalan painter and sculptor. I would probably lose the tie here, but the mid-century had tons of overshirts like this with giant chest pockets to make the piece look more like outerwear. Check Woolrich and Filson.
Read 14 tweets
Feb 11
this photo is a good example of not only how dress sneakers ruin a tailored outfit, but also how so many men nowadays opt for a slim pants silhouette that doesn't work with their coat. they end up looking like popsicle sticks.
this trend is everywhere nowadays. men want to wear a slim coat w slim pants, but coat can only be as slim as body allows. consequently, the suit is broken into two separate blocks. better to have a suit that works as a coherent whole. (same idea with sport coats)
most men don't want to wear pants as full as Astaire or Akihito. but these side profiles can help you gauge whether your pants work with your coat. colorful shoes, dress sneakers, and slim pants all do the same thing—they disrupt harmony by color, design, or silhouette.
Read 5 tweets
Feb 10
if true, this seems to butt up against musk's desire to turn twitter into a content platform. every other content platform—youtube, wordpress, tiktok, etc—has depended on the energy created by a massive number of free users.
me, after 19 tweets, concocting my most powerful tweet of the day
me baiting ppl with one stupendously bad take so they waste all 20 tweets in my replies
Read 5 tweets
Feb 8
SERVICE DIRECTORY FOR REPAIRING CLOTHES 🧵

I'm a big believer in buying nice things, repairing when needed, and keeping stuff forever. So here's a service directory for fixing clothes and shoes. These places take mail-ins, but contact them before sending.
Dry Cleaning

Rave FabricCARE is the best dry cleaner in the US. Most places send out work to indiscriminate cleaning plants, but Rave owns their own equipment and takes care to treat stains by type. They also offer handpressing and sponge cleaning

ravefabricare.com
Invisible Mending

Have a hole? French American Reweaving Company does more than patch things up—they fill the hole with matching material, so the repair is invisible. Works on knits and wovens (e.g. sweaters, suits, pants).

yelp.com/biz/french-ame…
Read 11 tweets
Feb 7
love wirecutter and think they generally do great work. am disappointed they recommended Naadam. if your budget is $75 for a sweater, you will get much better value from buying merino, lambswool, or Shetland. If you want cashmere, buy Scottish-made second-hand.
For me, the kicker is in these two paragraphs. The knits pilled after a short period of wear. But the price is so cheap, expectations are low and buyers expect to replace knit after "several years."

Why not buy something that will last ten to twenty years with minimal pilling? Image
Since the price is cheap, our expectations are low. No biggie to buy a $75 knit and replace after several years. But you will be much happier in the long run if you own a knit for 10-20 years. It will be a treasured item. Doesn't have to be cashmere; can be Shetland or lambswool
Read 7 tweets

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