not caring about getting invited to parties is a good thing. i get the impression that too many fashion insiders care about these meaningless things. esp for writers, once you make friends with brand ppl, you will start silencing your criticism bc you don't want to offend
i dont get invited to many events, but Loro Piana recently invited me to their FW23 presentation. i declined bc i don't cover shows. but when i see the content at such events, it's creators filming IG stories, taking fit pics to show they've "made it," and rehashing PR points.
let's say you're at the event and notice something bad about the clothes. or you later learn something critical about the quality. would you say something? after all of your IG stories and how the brand treated you to this $$$$ package? some do! many don't.
IMO, this is how so much fashion writing ends up being fluff. superlative descriptions about the clothes with no real technical detail, long-winded passages about how famous people wear this brand. so-and-so creative director is a genius. greenwashing bulletpoints.
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there's been a lot of breathless praise and superlative descriptions for loro piana, given their latest FW23 presentation and media blitz. so i thought i'd share these photos from my friend @Beijing1980, who pointed out to me the ways in which Loro Piana's quality has declined 🧵
LVMH acquired Loro Piana in 2013 for $2.57 billion. @Beijing1980 happens to have two versions of the company's storm system cashmere Roadster jacket: the blue one was bought 15 years ago (pre-LVMH); the tan one was bought in October 2022 (made under LVMH)
i think a lot of people think of quality in terms of the softness of the material or the straightness of the seams. unless you're buying fast fashion, the seams on almost any garment are going to be straight. quality is more about design elements.
i support everyone who's trying to make a living and hope people are able to do what they love, but i don't understand how people start substacks and patreons and ask people to pay them $5/ month for content.
i know ive said this before, but i miss the content that was on the internet 15-20 yrs ago. created by passionate hobbyists who did what they did out of love, and there was no intention to sell merch, gain subscribers, or even grow an audience.
people wrote about interior decor, fashion, music, and all sorts of insane niche content—a blog focused on just 1940s political pins written by some wacko who clearly dedicated his life to this and didn't care if only his brother read the blog. now it's all song and dance for $5.
If you're interested in bespoke, but don't normally wear suits or sport coats, Atelier Savas makes bespoke leather jackets with all of the craftsmanship you'd find in custom tailoring. They're hosting trunk shows in NYC and San Francisco starting this week. 🧵
The company has a few tiers: a ready-to-wear line, which you can adjust through their made-to-order and made-to-measure service (e.g., getting a jacket in a different leather or with longer sleeves/ length). And a fully bespoke service where a project starts from scratch.
The bespoke service is pretty incredible. It works a bit like haute couture, French bespoke shirtmaking, or some men's tailoring when fabrics are very expensive. The pattern is drafted from scratch and a toile fitting is prepared using canvas.
I keep getting questions about where to buy a dress shirt. This is not a very interesting topic, but typing out a thread will save me from having to repeat this each time. It will also be a fuller answer. Here's where to buy a dress shirt:
First, there's no way to answer "what is the best shirt." The best shirt is the one that fits you best. Shirt fabric is lightweight, which means it will naturally wrinkle when you move. So be realistic. But aim for a fit like this:
When you see lines around your shirt, there's something likely wrong with the fit. It may be too big or tight. Or the shirt's shoulder slope doesn't match your shoulder slope. Or maybe it doesn't fit your posture. Hard to answer without seeing a tailor. Avoid stuff like this:
I wrote about the strange and turbulent history of British bespoke shoemaking: how Karl Marx once commissioned a pair of bespoke shoes in 1870 nfrom Peal, one of the most luxurious bespoke shoemakers. And how radical British shoemakers tried to overthrow their government.
In the 19th century, London shoemaking was on a high. Shoemaking was the third most popular profession in the city, with an astonishing 28,574 boot and shoemakers. There were also shoemaking competitions. The large pool of labor + competitions kept quality high
In the following century, the rise of mass manufacturing, improvements in ready-made footwear, and the eventual importation of cheap, glued shoes nearly destroyed the British bespoke shoe trade. Press during this time relied on stories about famous customers, rather than quality