some nice photos from Assisi in Seoul showing how a suit looks when it doesn't have any fit issues. two easy ways to judge fit: collar should stay glued on neck and there shouldn't be puckering or pulling. the slimmer you go, the more fit probs you'll see
(IG assisibespokehouse)
despite the checkmark on the left, both of these suits fit poorly. guys often go super slim in the waist bc they want that v-shaped figure. but going super slim in the waist often creates pulling. instead of going slim in waist, go wider in shoulders and chest for same effect
such fun in unbelievable techno-nightmare MTM hell
i cant help but think the clothing market is worse off with all of its fragmentation and customization options. it used to be that you went to a clothier and they sold you a suit and all the things you'd wear with it—shirt, tie, shoes, etc.
these pics are of j press in 1954:
the clothier used to guide people through whether something fits. now the sales associate is doing little more than closing a sale, so if you want to size down, they'll bring the next size down. you want to take in the waist 5 inches? they'll do that too.
single best purchase i've made, in terms of making a tangible improvement on my life, are these socks from American Trench. made in the USA, super cozy, and ideal for people who, like me, get cold feet at home. three styles i like:
Wool-Silk Boot Socks
Bought these about 5 years ago. They're made from Italian yarns that are subtly flecked like Donegal tweed. Exceptionally soft, reasonably durable (mine have just started to give out), and way comfier than your typical cotton socks
Bought these after my wool-silk boot socks and, at first, thought they were just alright. They're plain colored and don't have flecks like the wool-silk ones above. Mine also pilled a little after two or three washes, which made me a bit disappointed.
my hot take is that the general public is not that well-dressed, but this is easily the best time in fashion (or style, if you prefer). the only bad aesthetic out there is business casual (sorry). but otherwise, the clothing market is incredibly rich and wonderful
take, for example, how many aesthetics are considered legitimate now. 150 years ago, men owned maybe two suits and five shirts with seven detachable collars. not only do they have much larger wardrobes now, but there's so much to play with
you can create any aesthetic of the past *and* future. legitimate aesthetics now include anything from 1960s Ivy Style to futuristic dark avant-garde. literally, everything is possible now. there's also more crossover btw men's and women's wardrobes and gender fluidity
Today's discussion of banning transgenderism, or "gender ideology," makes me wonder what this would mean in practice for fashion. Would we be legally required to perform our assigned gender? 🧵
About 10 yrs ago, I interviewed Frank Muytjens, then the head of J Crew's menswear design, about how he decides which brands to feature in the company's "In Good Company" lineup. He told me he included Red Wings because he liked how lesbians in Chelsea wear them with slim jeans
Of course, that combo later became a signature of the heritage menswear movement. The uniform of a slim plaid flannel shirt, slim jeans, and chunky work boots signaled the person was referencing ideas about masculinity, but not actually performing manual labor
the fake answer is that the asymmetry of the four-in-hand lends a kind of degage imperfection that's ideal for classic male dress. like how pocket squares should be stuffed, not folded like origami swans