Thread by @dieworkwear

such fun in unbelievable techno-nightmare MTM hell

i cant help but think the clothing market is worse off with all of its fragmentation and customization options. it used to be that you went to a clothier and they sold you a suit and all the things you'd wear with it—shirt, tie, shoes, etc.

these pics are of j press in 1954:

the clothier used to guide people through whether something fits. now the sales associate is doing little more than closing a sale, so if you want to size down, they'll bring the next size down. you want to take in the waist 5 inches? they'll do that too.

in Anderson & Sheppard's vanity book A Style is Born, Graydon Carter wrote about how his fitter would quietly drop the subject if he brought a suggestion that was in bad taste. "a most daring idea, sir." and that would be the end of it.

guys came out of j press looking pretty good! at brooks brothers, the relationship btw a customer and sales associate was so close, some customers were called a "CU customer" bc they'd come just to "see you." clothiers were trusted advisors on how to dress

now customers can order anything: peak lapel tweeds, notch lapel DBs. they also buy shirts from shirt companies, pants from pant companies, jackets from jacket companies. and figure out how to combine these things. result is a mishmash of proportions: small collar with wide lapel

that's just for tailoring! there are infinite options for casualwear, and then how to combine each of those aesthetics. companies will sell you anything nowadays.

my friend @Beijing1980 recently re-opened a bespoke tailoring shop in Beijing called BRIO (IG atelier_brio_pechino)

there are normally infinite options in bespoke bc the garment is made from scratch. but at BRIO, your customization options are fabric and payment method. details such as vents, pleats, pocket styles, and the number of buttons are non-negotiable.

reason is to both simplify the process and, frankly, make sure the end result is in good taste. george said something amusing: "of course, i want the customer to be happy. but i also need to be happy."

IMO, customers should do less on their own.

Don't over-customize or try to find the "best pants from the best pant company." don't try to infer quality on your own or have adversarial relationships with clothiers. find a few good shops you trust and let them guide you.