derek guy Profile picture
Mar 15, 2023 11 tweets 7 min read Read on X
WHAT IS A COLLAR GAP?

Some people have asked what's a collar gap and whether this issue can be fixed. So here's a thread on something basic you can check, whether you're buying tailored clothing or casualwear. 🧵 Jimmy Kimmell in a black tuxedo. His coat exhibits a collar
A collar gap is when the jacket's collar stands off your neck. See the gap on Jimmy Kimmell's white dinner jacket. A properly tailored jacket will have a neck that stays seated on the neck, especially when you're standing with your arms down (see the second man, Mark Cho) Kimmell in a white dinner jacket. His coat exhibits a collarKimmell in a white dinner jacket. His coat exhibits a collarMark Cho in an olive mohair suit. His coat does not have a cMark Cho in an olive mohair suit. His coat does not have a c
A collar gap shouldn't show up when you're standing still (if it does, don't buy the coat). But it also shouldn't show up when you're doing normal, everyday motions. Compare the collars on Jordan Peterson and Bill Nighy here, both in similar poses. Jordan Peterson lifting up his arm to embrace someone. His cJordan Peterson lifting up his arm to embrace someone. His cBill Nighy lifting up both arms. His coat does not lift off Bill Nighy lifting up both arms. His coat does not lift off
The best tailoring will result in a seated collar even when you're doing extreme motions. Will Smith slapping Chris Rock. Neither men have collar gapsWill Smith slapping Chris Rock. Neither men have collar gaps
When ppl first learn of collar gaps, they often call out small infractions. This is not a useful understanding of the concept. Sometimes the coat needs adjusting, or your neck is tilted forward. Nighy's suit here is beautiful, but a small gap shows up elsewhere. Be reasonable. Bill Nighy's blue herringbone suit stays seated on his neck.Bill Nighy's blue herringbone suit lifts slightly off his ne
The goal should be to avoid the most egregious of examples, like Ye's suit here.

Can you fix a collar gap? It depends on what's causing the issue. It could be that your jacket’s shoulders are more sloped than your own, or that the chest is too tight. Kanye's shawl collar suit exhibits a collar gap
Or it could be that your posture is more stooped than the jacket allows. Whether these things can be fixed depends on the cause, the severity of the problem, and how the coat is constructed. No way to know without going to see a skilled tailor. Sidney Poitier's grey suit doesn't have a collar gapSean Connery's grey suit doesn't have a collar gap
If your coat lifts off your neck when you move your arms, it may be that your armholes are too low. The distance between the lowest part of your armhole to the center of the back of your neck can control how much movement you get from a coat. An illustration showing the measurement between bottom of ar
I know some people at this point are saying, "Ok well I don't wear suits or sport coats." Collar gaps can also show up in casualwear! See these two black leather motorcycle jackets. The Ramones are wearing a jacket that's seated on the neck; the other man has a collar lifting up. The Ramones weather black leather jackets with no collar gapA motorcycle jacket by Vanson exhibits a collar gap
Some casualwear styles, such as the mountain parka, are designed in such a way that the collar is never meant to be seated on the neck. Consider the style before judging whether the collar is intended to stay seated on the neck. Students in the 1970s wearing mountain parkasA man in an Engineered Garments mountain parka
The idea that the collar should hug your neck is a pretty basic concept in a lot of patternmaking. It stretches from classic casualwear to dark avant-garde. Pay attention to it next time you're buying outerwear, so you don't get stuck with something you dislike later. A man in a suede Savas jacket with no collar gapA person in a Rick Owens leather jacket with no collar gap

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More from @dieworkwear

May 1
I can answer this question.

Here's how these tariffs can affect the average American. 🧵 Image
Although tailoring has mostly receded from daily life, it continues to be the expected uniform for some of life's most important moments, such as weddings and funerals. Image
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Apr 26
This is true. Here are some things you can wear to a funeral. 🧵
If someone has died, consider attending the funeral in black tie (also known as a tuxedo in American vernacular). Black, as we know, is the color of mourning, so black tie shows respect for the deceased and their family. Image
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Do a little jump and dance at the funeral, so people can admire how your jacket collar hugs your neck. This demonstrates that you took the time to make sure your tuxedo is well-tailored for this somber occasion. Carry a martini around and toast during the eulogy. Image
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Apr 25
Here's some basic info that you may not have considered if you're just starting to buy tailored clothing, such as suits, sport coats, and overcoats. 🧵
When you buy ready-made tailoring, the pockets and vents are often tacked down with stitching—usually white, but not always. This stitching, known as basting, is done so that the garment moves from the factory to your closet while holding its shape. Image
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Before wearing the garment, you'll want to remove this stitching. Especially if there's a label on the sleeve. This label is only there so that people working in the distribution and sales process can easily identify the garment. It's not meant to be worn. Image
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Apr 21
Rumors are going around that Pete Hegseth might be on his way out. I don’t know if that’s true, but just in case, I want to do a thread on his style. To me, Hegseth’s wardrobe reflects a common pitfall guys fall into when they first start caring about clothes. 🧵 Image
When men start dressing with more intention, they often fall into the trap of cranking every knob to 11—volume, gain, treble, bass. The thinking is: more = better. But like in music, maxing out every setting doesn’t lead to clarity—it leads to noise. Image
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Read 21 tweets
Apr 20
Someone asked me why there aren't any high-end Chinese clothing brands. They are many! In this thread, I'll name a few, as well as answer the question why you may not have heard of them. 🧵 Image
This thread will cover a wide range of aesthetics and business sizes, so that there's something for everyone. The first is Zhu Chongyun, a chic womenswear label that combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with contemporary design. Image
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Their ad campaigns are highly stylized for marketing purposes, but when you look at their runway presentations, you can see how their clothes are very wearable. A bit minimalist in tone and sculptural in terms of silhouette. Very refined and chic.
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Apr 20
I try to live by the rule that what may be obvious to one person may not be obvious to another, as people are getting into hobbies at different points. So for those who are just starting to build a better wardrobe, here's how to shop for clothes online. 🧵
Go to your closet and pull out your best fitting clothes—best button-up shirt, best sweater, best pair of tailored trousers, and best pair of jeans. Lay these flat on a hard surface and measure them with a flexible measuring tape (available online or local craft stores) Image
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For button-up shirts and sweaters, you'll want to take four basic measurements:

— Chest: measure across the front from armpit to armpit. Make sure shirt is buttoned

— Shoulder: measure across the back from shoulder joint to shoulder joint. Use the shoulder seam to guide you. Image
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Read 15 tweets

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