I often get questions from women who like what I post, but want a womenswear version. Unfortunately, I don't know much about womenswear and don't know who to recommend. If any women follow me and feel they have good suggestions, please drop them below!!
PLEASE NOTE I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT WOMENSWEAR. THESE ARE JUST MY VERY UNINFORMED OPINIONS.
But in case they are at all useful, here are some things I like:
IG accounts: emiliecsz, ponytailjournal, shungacowgirl, theprophetpizza, halemur, ehawtin, outfitdissecting, therosenrot, sarahlinhtransiegelbaum, orangepancakes, be_spokenbyjihae, _nthea, stephaniebroek, and charlotterampling_ (not actually her account, but i like her style)
Stores: Tina the Store, 180 the Store, 45rpm, Reliquary, Front General Store, Mohawk General Store, Blue Button Shop, Epitome of Edinburgh, New World Order NYC, Rosen-X, Raggedy Threads, Cotton Sheep in San Francisco, Neighbour in Vancouver, Frances May, Margaret Howell, Lemaire
Some women have asked if I can recommend a bespoke tailor. One of my tailors, Fred Nieddu, has made suits and casualwear for women, both private clients and for films/TV (he made Diana's suit in season 6 of The Crown). His IG is frednieddu
I forgot one! Namu advertises on my site, but I genuinely love what they do. They carry labels like Auralee, Phlannel, and Studio Nicholson, which I think offer really simple, stylish clothes.
My only contribution to the St. Patrick's Day discourse is a small story about Donegal tweed, one of my favorite fabrics. Donegal tweed comes in many forms—(mostly) plain colored, herringbone, check, etc. But they're mostly distinguished by their irregular flecks of color.
Those flecks give Donegal a lot of versatility. A dark brown Donegal sport coat is like a halfway point between solid colors and patterns, so nothing ever clashes. It can be worn with patterned shirts and ties, or add visual interest to plainer outfits. Can also be used for suits
These flecks are added to the yarn during the spinning process. Before the wool fibers are spun into yarn, some of the wool is washed until the material felts (becomes fuzzy). Since felted wool doesn't stretch, it ends up globbing onto the yarns like bubblegum on a string.
if your professor looks like this, it's group projects and video documentaries all semester
honestly love that this photo collection was put together by a 19-year-old student who clearly put A LOT OF TIME into this and CARES A LOT ABOUT THEIR JOB but is working in a dept where no man has bought a new piece of clothing in 30 years
Some people have asked what's a collar gap and whether this issue can be fixed. So here's a thread on something basic you can check, whether you're buying tailored clothing or casualwear. 🧵
A collar gap is when the jacket's collar stands off your neck. See the gap on Jimmy Kimmell's white dinner jacket. A properly tailored jacket will have a neck that stays seated on the neck, especially when you're standing with your arms down (see the second man, Mark Cho)
A collar gap shouldn't show up when you're standing still (if it does, don't buy the coat). But it also shouldn't show up when you're doing normal, everyday motions. Compare the collars on Jordan Peterson and Bill Nighy here, both in similar poses.
central heating killed the three-piece suit, but it doesn't explain why we don't even have the two-piece suit (which can be made from breathable materials like tropical wool). the suit, like traditional hats, died bc they became seen as too formal.
the desire to dress down is also not a new feature of society. the suit started as something gentlemen wore to the beach or for sport. it was later picked up by lowly clerks. a proper gentleman in late 19th cent wore frock coats. suits were once viewed like cargo shorts are today
if we're talking about this period and how it affects our attire today, i think the trial of oscar wilde is often unappreciated. men's attire has long been in a sorry state for lots of reasons: the great male renunciation put men in drab clothes; fashion was considered for women
such fun in unbelievable techno-nightmare MTM hell
i cant help but think the clothing market is worse off with all of its fragmentation and customization options. it used to be that you went to a clothier and they sold you a suit and all the things you'd wear with it—shirt, tie, shoes, etc.
these pics are of j press in 1954:
the clothier used to guide people through whether something fits. now the sales associate is doing little more than closing a sale, so if you want to size down, they'll bring the next size down. you want to take in the waist 5 inches? they'll do that too.