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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Mar 19, 2023 • 9 tweets • 3 min read • Read on X

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i'll never get over how skinny jeans have become so normalized, they're now worn by conservatives lamenting the decline of traditional masculinity.

you don't even have to go as far back as the early 2000s to see how this used to be taboo for men

in 2011, Levi's released their "ex-girlfriend jeans," which caused an uproar. many said the reference to women and skinny fit rendered men feminine/gay. this was part of a long convo about the "decline of masculinity."

Michele White dedicated a chapter on these jeans in her book

now one of the main voices around this political war is wearing jeans so skinny, his leg opening doesn't even cover the opening of his shoes. this would have been unthinkable 15 years ago, let alone around the turn of the 2000s.

should add: it's easier to feel comfy in skinny jeans now bc of synthetics. in 2011, guys wore this fit in pure cotton, and they were unforgiving. but even the use of synthetics was once taboo for men! stretch jeans were for women. now lots of guys wear stretch skinny jeans

the most amazing thing about this thread is that it has now attracted normal, non-fashion dudes and social conservatives who are now defending their skinny jeans. pretty amazing!!

conservatives in skinny jeans coming up to the mic to disagree

https://twitter.com/girlwithascythe/status/1637705570231758850

trying to be nice and assume that people either have not read this thread and/or perhaps are reading too quickly. nothing in this thread suggests that I'm against skinny jeans. i think they can be stylish if they fit your body type and style

https://twitter.com/girlwithascythe/status/1637705570231758850

i'm only pointing out the irony. 10 yrs ago, social conservatives hated skinny jeans as a sign of "low t, beta male hipsters" and a decline in traditional masculinity. now they wear the style while still lamenting the supposed decline in traditional masculinity.

https://twitter.com/Bagofbread2/status/1637894928780103680

https://twitter.com/Bagofbread2/status/1637894928780103680

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Jan 2

https://twitter.com/Cauw006/status/1874670077272031433

There are a few reasons for this. 🧵

https://twitter.com/Cauw006/status/1874670077272031433

The first and most obvious is that taste is a social construct shaped by forces such as cultural and financial capital. As Pierre Bourdieu pointed out in his book Distinction, our notions of "Good Taste" is often nothing more than the preferences and habits of the ruling class.

In this sense, judgements of taste tend to be path dependent. Dress shirts are considered to be in "good taste" when they're white or light blue for no other reason than the fact that's what elites wore. Black dress shirts are associated with the lower, sometimes criminal classes

Read 16 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 31, 2024

https://twitter.com/nlarjrm319/status/1873987812418297899

Like a lot of stuff in classic men's dress, the rule of "no white after Labor Day" is rooted in class dynamics during the early 20th century. Many questions can be answered by "what is the aesthetic?" and "who set the rules?" 🧵

https://twitter.com/nlarjrm319/status/1873987812418297899

During the early 20th century, men's dress was governed by TPO (time, place, and occasion). In England, where we get many of our rules, men did business in London while wearing navy suits and black oxfords. But when in the country, they wore brown tweeds and grained derbies.

This is where we get the rule "no brown in town." The idea was that you were not supposed to wear brown tweeds and brown grained derbies while doing business in London (a rule that held pretty firmly until relatively recently, at least for sectors like finance).

Read 19 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 29, 2024

When people think of menswear crafted with a high-degree of workmanship, they think of places such as France, Italy, and the UK. Some may think of Japan. But few will think of India, even though some of the most incredible workmanship is happening there now. Let me show you. 🧵

This thread starts with a premise: quality workmanship speaks for itself regardless of where it's done. Often, people's view of "quality" is colored by where a garment was made. Robert Schooler showed this in a 1965 paper published in Journal of Marketing Research.

As you read this thread, I want you to keep in mind the stories you may have read about European craftsmanship. These stories inspire awe because they're about skilled labor and dedication to one's trade. We should be in no less awe when the same craft happens in India.

Read 25 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 27, 2024

https://twitter.com/bigdlckcheney/status/1872542451963195415

I would be happy to.

Here are some well-dressed Indians. 🧵

https://twitter.com/bigdlckcheney/status/1872542451963195415

The first person who comes to mind is Yashwant Rao Holkar II (full name Maharajadhiraj Raj Rajeshwar Sawai Shri Sir Yeshwant Rao II Holkar XIV Bahadur), who was the Maharaja of Indore. He occasionally wore beautiful garb that I can only assume is traditional to Indian culture.

Unfortunately, I don't know much about non-Western forms of dress, so I can only speak to the Western forms of attire that he wore. Here he is in white tie. Everything here is impeccably tailored—collar hugs neck, no divots, perfect peak lapel and gorge.

Read 23 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 27, 2024

https://twitter.com/VinceGoodwill/status/1871937997060661743

I understand the sentiment, but respectfully disagree. I don't think dress codes do much to improve aesthetics, largely because they don't change what has caused a decline in aesthetics. It is not about lack of personal pride but rather shifts in our commercial system. 🧵

https://twitter.com/VinceGoodwill/status/1871937997060661743

First, I should say at the outset that I don't think dress reflects someone's deeper, more important qualities. Coaches will not coach better if they wear a suit. So for me, this is fundamentally just about aesthetics.

Let's review some coach outfits through the years.

Apologies if I get some of these wrong—I'm not an expert on basketball history. I pulled these photos from searching "basketball coach [decade]." So I'm counting that these are mostly correct.

Here are basketball coaches from the 1960s.

Read 21 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Dec 23, 2024

Have you ever felt a film scene was particularly memorable or beautiful? To be sure, much of this is about cinematography and acting, but I want to show how outfits also contribute to this impression. Hopefully, this thread will give you some ideas on how to dress better. 🧵

Fit and silhouette are the two most important qualities of any outfit. Even when Vittorio De Sica portrayed this poor family searching for a stolen bike in post-war Italy, the dad looked great bc the coat broadened his shoulders and flowed over his hips. The son also wore layers.

We see this same effect in The Linguini Incident (1991). In this scene, there is barely any color aside from the cotton candy. Yet, all the outfits are beautiful bc they turn the ppl into shapes. The hats, scarves, and outerwear give the people distinctive silhouettes.