derek guy Profile picture
Mar 19, 2023 9 tweets 3 min read Read on X
i'll never get over how skinny jeans have become so normalized, they're now worn by conservatives lamenting the decline of traditional masculinity.

you don't even have to go as far back as the early 2000s to see how this used to be taboo for men Russell Brand is wearing a ...
in 2011, Levi's released their "ex-girlfriend jeans," which caused an uproar. many said the reference to women and skinny fit rendered men feminine/gay. this was part of a long convo about the "decline of masculinity."

Michele White dedicated a chapter on these jeans in her book Time Magazine article about...Image
now one of the main voices around this political war is wearing jeans so skinny, his leg opening doesn't even cover the opening of his shoes. this would have been unthinkable 15 years ago, let alone around the turn of the 2000s. Ben Shapiro in an open whit...A close up of the small leg...
should add: it's easier to feel comfy in skinny jeans now bc of synthetics. in 2011, guys wore this fit in pure cotton, and they were unforgiving. but even the use of synthetics was once taboo for men! stretch jeans were for women. now lots of guys wear stretch skinny jeans
the most amazing thing about this thread is that it has now attracted normal, non-fashion dudes and social conservatives who are now defending their skinny jeans. pretty amazing!!
conservatives in skinny jeans coming up to the mic to disagree Image
trying to be nice and assume that people either have not read this thread and/or perhaps are reading too quickly. nothing in this thread suggests that I'm against skinny jeans. i think they can be stylish if they fit your body type and style

i'm only pointing out the irony. 10 yrs ago, social conservatives hated skinny jeans as a sign of "low t, beta male hipsters" and a decline in traditional masculinity. now they wear the style while still lamenting the supposed decline in traditional masculinity.

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More from @dieworkwear

Apr 2
Any time I comment on these shoes, someone replies: "What am I supposed to wear? Those are so comfy!"

This is reasonable. But if you want to wear more traditional footwear, here are some suggestions on how to find a comfortable pair. 🧵 Image
First, nothing is going to be as comfy as sneakers. Those are pillows built on marshmallow clouds. But it's also not true that traditional leather shoes have to be painful. For generations, men wore leather soles for sport and long walks. Image
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In fact, John Lobb of St. James in London still calls some of their derbies "navvy cut." The term navvy is short for navigator, which is a working class laborer during the 19th century who worked on civil engineering projects, such as canals and railways. Image
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Mar 27
I don't think this is exactly right. My guess is that a lot of AI art will be similar to what has happened in the clothing industry: technology speeds up production, benefitting consumers. Only enthusiasts will care if something is made by hand or not. Will give examples. 🧵
I should note this thread doesn't get into ethical issues about copying another person's work. I'm only talking about how I think it will impact the market.

As I've mentioned before, tailoring is about creating shape. For a jacket, a lot of this is done through pad stitching. Image
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Pad stitching is when you pick up multiple layers of material, stitching them together in such a way that you transform 2D cloth into 3D forms. This is done to the jacket's collar, chest, and lapels. You see it demonstrated here.

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Read 14 tweets
Mar 26
Spring has started and soon you'll see a bunch of posts like this, extolling the virtues of linen. Once people learn about linen through short, simple blurbs, they think it possess magical properties. But the truth is more complicated.

Let me tell you about linen. 🧵 Image
Clothing production is often opaque, especially for consumers. If you're lucky, a brand might tell you that they use Irish or Italian linen, such these J. Crew shirts that hit shelves every summer, carrying the Baird McNutt label (also, "McNutt" is objectively funny). Image
Both Irish and Italian mills today source most of their raw materials from outside their own countries, typically from France or the Netherlands. Even the prestigious “Irish Linen” label only requires that the fabric be woven in Ireland, not flax to be grown there. Image
Read 17 tweets
Mar 24
Do you know why luxury brands put logos all over their clothes? I'll tell you. 🧵
The most obvs reason is that luxury and streetwear have been merging for the last 20 years. Cristóbal Balenciaga was known for these incredible dresses (pic 1). But in more recent history, creative director Demna Gvasalia, who just left the company, borrows from streetwear. Image
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I actually like streetwear, although I'm not crazy about the top-down, corporate-led version of it in recent years (more about that for another time). A lot of streetwear is heavily logo driven. Look up the history of Dapper Dan, who made these incredible couture creations. Image
Read 14 tweets
Mar 22
People who have followed me for a while may already know the answer to this. But I will explain again why steam is ruinous for tailoring, and how you can pack a suit. 🧵 Image
To understand why steam is ruinous for tailoring, you have to first understand that suits and sport coats are not like other things in your wardrobe. They are built from many layers of haircloth, canvas, and padding, and then shaped through pad stitching and ironwork. Image
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This is what makes tailoring so special: it's the unique ability to transform 2D cloth into 3D forms. You can read this thread about the difference between low- and high-end tailoring. Hopefully, you will walk away with an appreciation for *shape*

Read 19 tweets
Mar 12
Meghan McCain's husband blocked me, so I can't retweet (also my mom got really excited once when I told her that Meghan McCain's husband tweeted about me). But this sort of attitude is why some people will never be stylish. Let's talk about Bernie Sanders's style. 🧵 Image
When most people think of Bernie Sanders, they think of images like this: a grumpy looking man with uncombed silver hair wearing a suit that looks like it might be a size too large. He looks like a fledgling that has somehow climbed into dark worsted suit. Image
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To them, it's absurd to suggest Bernie is stylish because they only think of style as the language of respectability: put together, middle class, successful, and so forth. As Ben put it, Bernie looks "homeless" (he does not, but the term is reveals Ben's myopia and ignorance). Image
Read 21 tweets

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