derek guy Profile picture
Mar 19, 2023 9 tweets 3 min read Read on X
i'll never get over how skinny jeans have become so normalized, they're now worn by conservatives lamenting the decline of traditional masculinity.

you don't even have to go as far back as the early 2000s to see how this used to be taboo for men Russell Brand is wearing a ...
in 2011, Levi's released their "ex-girlfriend jeans," which caused an uproar. many said the reference to women and skinny fit rendered men feminine/gay. this was part of a long convo about the "decline of masculinity."

Michele White dedicated a chapter on these jeans in her book Time Magazine article about...Image
now one of the main voices around this political war is wearing jeans so skinny, his leg opening doesn't even cover the opening of his shoes. this would have been unthinkable 15 years ago, let alone around the turn of the 2000s. Ben Shapiro in an open whit...A close up of the small leg...
should add: it's easier to feel comfy in skinny jeans now bc of synthetics. in 2011, guys wore this fit in pure cotton, and they were unforgiving. but even the use of synthetics was once taboo for men! stretch jeans were for women. now lots of guys wear stretch skinny jeans
the most amazing thing about this thread is that it has now attracted normal, non-fashion dudes and social conservatives who are now defending their skinny jeans. pretty amazing!!
conservatives in skinny jeans coming up to the mic to disagree Image
trying to be nice and assume that people either have not read this thread and/or perhaps are reading too quickly. nothing in this thread suggests that I'm against skinny jeans. i think they can be stylish if they fit your body type and style

i'm only pointing out the irony. 10 yrs ago, social conservatives hated skinny jeans as a sign of "low t, beta male hipsters" and a decline in traditional masculinity. now they wear the style while still lamenting the supposed decline in traditional masculinity.

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More from @dieworkwear

Dec 18
This is not true. The average person today has access to much higher-quality goods. I will show this with your first example: shoes. 🧵
It's true that prior to the industrial revolution, everyone wore "handmade shoes." This is true by definition because shoes were not yet put through an industrial production process. But you mistake quality with "handmade." In fact, there were two types of shoemakers. Image
In London, the lower working classes would have gone to a cobbler, which is someone who cut up old shoes and "cobbled" something together. In terms of quality, these were quite poor and didn't fit very well because of the scrap materials used and lack of a custom last Image
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Read 19 tweets
Dec 17
I don't know if fragrances can smell gay. But just as certain shapes and colors can be coded in terms of gender, so can certain smells. And some of the best scents are non-binary. Let's explore some together. 🧵
By "gendered," I don't mean these scents are inherently gendered. Anyone can wear anything and our gender codes can change depending on context. For instance, Knize 10 comes from one of the best bespoke tailoring shops in Vienna. It's a very "masculine" leather scent. Image
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We think of it as masculine because that's what men coming out of that shop smelled like! Similarly, Chanel No. 5 is a powdery floral. I think of it as feminine because when I was growing up, that's what sophisticated women of a certain generation wore. Image
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Read 18 tweets
Dec 16
Many people have a very narrow view of fragrances, while not recognizing that scents are used in nearly everything—soap, lotions, shampoos, toothpaste, etc. They assume that fragrances have to smell powerful and heavy. This is not true. 🧵
Take, for instance, ISO E Super, which is synthetic aroma-chemical common in soap and detergents. It's a warm, slightly woody scent. By itself, it's almost undetectable unless you literally press your nose up to the object.
About 20 years ago, Escentric Molecule 01 was super popular in the fragrance community bc it was a rebuke of heavy scents. Many in the community suspect this is basically just ISO E Super, which can be bought for much less. Image
Read 13 tweets
Dec 14
As with all of my suggestions, my recommendations only apply if we agree on a premise. For tailoring, my premise is that men looked better in tailored clothing sometime between the 1930s and 80s than they do today. For instance, which do you think looks better? Image
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If we agree that the photo on the left looks better, then we can have a discussion on how to recreate that aesthetic. However, if you prefer the outfit on the right, then disregard my suggestions. We simply disagree on aesthetics—and that's OK. This is a low-stakes subject.
Read 17 tweets
Dec 13
It's very easy to dress in black tie and the holiday season is the perfect time to do so. You can wear black tie to the opera (e.g., opening night for Nutcracker) or a New Year's Eve party. All you need to do is avoid a few simple mistakes. 🧵
Fortunately, this photo shows every single common mistake today in black tie. So we can move through the image in order. Image
First, black tie calls for a dinner suit (aka tuxedo), not a business suit. It also means wearing a black bow tie, typically made in the same material as your jacket's facings. When you wear a long black tie with a dinner suit, ppl can't tell if you're going to a party or funeral Image
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Read 17 tweets
Dec 12
Contrary to popular belief, a tailor isn't someone that can make you whatever you want. The best way to treat a tailor is to "let them cook." I will show you some examples. 🧵
Every tailor has their own way of making things, which they've perfected through many years of doing the same thing over and over again. They'll have a certain way of drafting the pattern, creating shoulder pads, and stitching the chest.
This will result in what's known as a "house style." Here are two concrete examples on opposite ends of the spectrum.

The Neapolitan tailoring house Rubinacci makes a very soft jacket. There's minimal padding in the shoulder and some haircloth, but no domette, in the chest. Image
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Read 18 tweets

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