i'll never get over how skinny jeans have become so normalized, they're now worn by conservatives lamenting the decline of traditional masculinity.
you don't even have to go as far back as the early 2000s to see how this used to be taboo for men
in 2011, Levi's released their "ex-girlfriend jeans," which caused an uproar. many said the reference to women and skinny fit rendered men feminine/gay. this was part of a long convo about the "decline of masculinity."
Michele White dedicated a chapter on these jeans in her book
now one of the main voices around this political war is wearing jeans so skinny, his leg opening doesn't even cover the opening of his shoes. this would have been unthinkable 15 years ago, let alone around the turn of the 2000s.
should add: it's easier to feel comfy in skinny jeans now bc of synthetics. in 2011, guys wore this fit in pure cotton, and they were unforgiving. but even the use of synthetics was once taboo for men! stretch jeans were for women. now lots of guys wear stretch skinny jeans
the most amazing thing about this thread is that it has now attracted normal, non-fashion dudes and social conservatives who are now defending their skinny jeans. pretty amazing!!
conservatives in skinny jeans coming up to the mic to disagree
trying to be nice and assume that people either have not read this thread and/or perhaps are reading too quickly. nothing in this thread suggests that I'm against skinny jeans. i think they can be stylish if they fit your body type and style
i'm only pointing out the irony. 10 yrs ago, social conservatives hated skinny jeans as a sign of "low t, beta male hipsters" and a decline in traditional masculinity. now they wear the style while still lamenting the supposed decline in traditional masculinity.
I get this sort of question a lot: "How should I dress given that I'm XYZ?" The XYZ usually has something to do with age or physical characteristics, such as height, skin tone, or body shape. So, let me do a thread here. 🧵
I don't really believe you have to dress for your age. You may want to consider your lifestyle, which sometimes correlates with age. But I don't think you have to dress in any particular way. Here are some older guys wearing all sorts of stuff that I think is stylish
Here are some younger guys wearing clothes that are considered by many to be "old man style."
If you like quality for quality's sake, and you mostly wear casualwear, then I think you should check out the Japanese brand 45rpm. 🧵
I fell in love with 45rpm 15 years ago after coming across their lookbooks. Their lookbooks at the time were often shot by Eric Kvatek, a talented photographer who now works for Kapital. Here are some images from more recent lookbooks (my old image files are too low res)
The thing about 45pm is that the "quality" is not always apparent to casual observers. Years ago, Antonio of 18 East—who used to run an Isaia sub-label called Eidos—broke down all the work that went into these seemingly basic navy 45rpm chinos.
In this old Brooks Brothers catalog from 1915, we see an entry for Chesterfields, a type of single-breasted "city coat" made with a velvet collar. At the time, Brooks Brothers offered these in Vicuna, Cheviot, and Elysian. Coats were lined in satin and piped with velvet.
Joshua Ellis, a British mill mostly known for cashmere, still offers Elysian today. It's a labor-intensive overcoating made with two layers of plain weave sewn together, then covered in a third layer of weft floats. This gives it a nap like velvet or corduroy.
Someone from @piersmorgan's staff asked if I would like to come onto Pier's show, Piers Morgan Uncensored, to talk about the state of his attire. Since he invited feedback, I thought I'd do a thread comparing his style to menswear icon Kermit the Frog. 🧵
Let's again start with the basics.
The core of any outfit is fit and silhouette. Pier's suit jackets often have lapels that buckle away from his chest and a collar that floats from his neck. This suggests his jackets may be too small.
No such issues for Kermit the Frog. His clothes hang beautifully and smoothly while still giving a distinctive, flattering silhouette.
The buttoning point is the topmost button on a two-button coat or the center button on a three-button coat. It serves as the coat's visual fulcrum, determines the narrowest part of a jacket, and is where the lapels bloom.
Here, we see Jackson has a very muscular figure. The V-shape formed by his broad shoulders and narrow waist is even more extreme than the Statue of David.
I disagree that you dress like Cary Grant. In this thread, I will list some of the ways in which your dress differs and why such important details matter. 🧵
On Twitter and elsewhere, I often notice that people collapse men's style into very broad forms. A suit is just a suit, and pants are just pants. But in fact, tiny differences make a huge impact, and more attention should be paid to silhouette, shape, and detailing.
Let's start with the basics.
A collar gap can appear if your jacket's shoulders don't match the slope of your natural shoulders. Or if the jacket isn't cut right for your posture. Or the jacket is too tight across the chest (the most likely reason for Tristan's collar gap)