derek guy Profile picture
Mar 31, 2023 9 tweets 6 min read Read on X
I'll give this a shot. Ideas threaded below 🧵
70s Tailoring

I know 70s tailoring has a bad reputation ("the decade taste forgot"), but you can pull some elements in a way that will look good today: slightly structured shoulder, longer jacket, flared pants. Can be colorful or muted wisdom kaye in a teal sport coat, orange pants, and open whiNicolas Gabard ins a Husband's Paris suit. Black, single-bre
Low Cut T-Shirts

Affectionately called "slutty tees" on menswear forums, these can be worn with directional tailoring or certain types of casualwear (e.g. Margiela). Here you see it with E. Tautz tailoring. Be careful with washing. Delicate tees need laundry bags. Powder blue suit with black-and-white striped tee with low nCream double-breasted suit with low-cut teeBlack and grey striped sport coat with black low-cut tee andBlue and red checked sport coat with cream color pants, red
Silky Shirts

A silky shirt—made from actual silk or an alternative like rayon or Tencel—will make you feel like Richard Gere in American Gigolo. Unbutton the first two top buttons if you want to look slutty. Pair with a cool pair of pants (I like Lemaire) or casual tailoring. Wythe's cream-colored Tencel Western shirt worn with cream-c
Wrangler Wranchers

They're like $30, cool looking, and let you experiment with a 70s silhouette. Size-up two in waist and take regular inseam. Best in black, brown, or taupe. Wear with Western denim shirts, rayon shirts, trucker jackets, etc. Note they're pure poly Man in a black leather jacket, black turtleneck, and black WMan in a blue Western denim shirt, brown Wrangler Wranchers,
Giant Sunglasses

These will make you feel like a movie star. I love the ones from Jacques Marie Mage, but they're dearly expensive (please don't SCREAM AT ME). The Molino and Taos are good places to start. Man in an oversized pair of sunglasses, black denim shirt, bJacques Marie Mage's Molino with brown turtleneck and brown Jacques Marie Mage's Taos with a black jacket and blue plaidAd for Jacques Marie Mage.
Five-Inch Inseam Shorts

Wear them with long-sleeved tees, thin merino knits, or sweatshirts in the late spring, along with slip-on shoes such as camp mocs, espadrilles, penny loafers, or huaraches. Harrison Ford in 1982 Cannes Filme Festival wearing blue sho
Gold Chain

They go with surprisingly everything short of a conservative suit: Westernwear, tracksuits, prep, casual suits, etc. You can either go thick or thin for the chain. I'm partial to handmade Cuban link chains from Miami (IMO, 7mm is a good width). A man in a denim trucker jacket, plaid Western shirt, blue jChristopher from Sopranos wears a track suit, ribbed tank toA man in a striped oxford button down and thin gold chainA 7mm 18k 22" Cuban link chain
Mesh Shirts or Retro Styled Knits

Wear them over a ribbed tank top or a t-shirt. There are also mesh polos if you're more daring. If you do this right, you will look like a declious Asian pear. Man in a cream mesh shirt, white tank top, and black shortsMan in a cream retro-styled knit, white trousers, and suede Man in a cream-colored mesh polo, white belt, and white pleaAn Asian pear in a protective mesh wrapper

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More from @dieworkwear

Jul 15
I disagree that this is an aesthetically pleasing photo. Tristan's outfit ruins it and I'll tell you why. 🧵 Image
I'll assume Tristan is telling the truth when he says he used Photoshop and not AI. If so, this is a very impressive Photoshop job. By removing the scaffold tarp, you reveal more of the building. By removing the other cars, you also achieve more aesthetic coherence. Image
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What is aesthetic coherence? It's the idea that things based on shared history or spirit go together. For instance, I've long said that the Cybertruck could look very cool if you wore certain outfits (futuristic techwear) and lived in a Brutalist home. Image
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Read 15 tweets
Jul 14
Some people are incredulous that you can wear certain shoes without socks, such as leather loafers. Much depends on your body and climate. But I'll tell you one reason why you find this difficult to believe: you buy low quality footwear. 🧵 Image
It's absolutely possible to wear certain shoes without socks. As mentioned in an earlier thread, men have been doing this for over a hundred years. Going sockless makes sense if the outfit is semi-casual (not business clothes). Image
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In fact, if you wear socks with certain footwear styles, such as espadrilles, you will look like you don't know what you're doing. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Jul 13
Tim is right and wrong here. I'll tell you where he's right and where he's wrong. 🧵 Image
It's perfectly fine to wear slip-on shoes without socks. Those who suggest otherwise are simply ignorant and unaware about the history of men's dress.

You don't have to take my word for it. We can go back to Apparel Arts. Image
Apparel Arts was an early 20th century trade publication that taught men how to dress well. It was sent to clothiers and tailors so they could smartly advise their clients, but it later became a public-facing publication under the title "Esquire." Image
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Read 24 tweets
Jul 11
I get this sort of comment all the time, often about bespoke suits or mechanical watches. "These things are boring," "This is only for rich people," or "Who cares?"

Let me tell you a story. 🧵 Image
Before the age of ready-to-wear, men had clothes made for them, either in the home or, if they could afford one, by a tailor. Ready-made clothing was limited to simple workwear, such as what was worn by sailors or miners.

Tailoring shop, 1780: Image
In this older method, a tailor would measure you, sometimes using a string (before the invention of tailor's tape). Then they'd use those measurements to draft a pattern, cut the cloth, and produce a garment. This process is called bespoke. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 11
As I've stated many times, suit jackets and sport coats are made from many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, and padding. These layers give the garment its structure so it doesn't fall on you like a t-shirt or dress shirt. Image
For the chest and lapels, these layers can be attached to each other using a single-needle roll-padding machine, such as you see here. This is what you'll typically see on factory-made suits (this is a Strobel KA-ED machine). Happens both on the low- and high-end.
Read 7 tweets
Jul 8
I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")

I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵 Image
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.

It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects. Image
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Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250. Image
Read 24 tweets

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