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@dieworkwear
Mar 31 • 9 tweets • 6 min read Twitter logo Read on Twitter
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I'll give this a shot. Ideas threaded below 🧵
70s Tailoring

I know 70s tailoring has a bad reputation ("the decade taste forgot"), but you can pull some elements in a way that will look good today: slightly structured shoulder, longer jacket, flared pants. Can be colorful or muted wisdom kaye in a teal sport coat, orange pants, and open whiNicolas Gabard ins a Husband's Paris suit. Black, single-bre
Low Cut T-Shirts

Affectionately called "slutty tees" on menswear forums, these can be worn with directional tailoring or certain types of casualwear (e.g. Margiela). Here you see it with E. Tautz tailoring. Be careful with washing. Delicate tees need laundry bags. Powder blue suit with black-and-white striped tee with low nCream double-breasted suit with low-cut teeBlack and grey striped sport coat with black low-cut tee andBlue and red checked sport coat with cream color pants, red
Silky Shirts

A silky shirt—made from actual silk or an alternative like rayon or Tencel—will make you feel like Richard Gere in American Gigolo. Unbutton the first two top buttons if you want to look slutty. Pair with a cool pair of pants (I like Lemaire) or casual tailoring. Wythe's cream-colored Tencel Western shirt worn with cream-c
Wrangler Wranchers

They're like $30, cool looking, and let you experiment with a 70s silhouette. Size-up two in waist and take regular inseam. Best in black, brown, or taupe. Wear with Western denim shirts, rayon shirts, trucker jackets, etc. Note they're pure poly Man in a black leather jacket, black turtleneck, and black WMan in a blue Western denim shirt, brown Wrangler Wranchers,
Giant Sunglasses

These will make you feel like a movie star. I love the ones from Jacques Marie Mage, but they're dearly expensive (please don't SCREAM AT ME). The Molino and Taos are good places to start. Man in an oversized pair of sunglasses, black denim shirt, bJacques Marie Mage's Molino with brown turtleneck and brown Jacques Marie Mage's Taos with a black jacket and blue plaidAd for Jacques Marie Mage.
Five-Inch Inseam Shorts

Wear them with long-sleeved tees, thin merino knits, or sweatshirts in the late spring, along with slip-on shoes such as camp mocs, espadrilles, penny loafers, or huaraches. Harrison Ford in 1982 Cannes Filme Festival wearing blue sho
Gold Chain

They go with surprisingly everything short of a conservative suit: Westernwear, tracksuits, prep, casual suits, etc. You can either go thick or thin for the chain. I'm partial to handmade Cuban link chains from Miami (IMO, 7mm is a good width). A man in a denim trucker jacket, plaid Western shirt, blue jChristopher from Sopranos wears a track suit, ribbed tank toA man in a striped oxford button down and thin gold chainA 7mm 18k 22" Cuban link chain
Mesh Shirts or Retro Styled Knits

Wear them over a ribbed tank top or a t-shirt. There are also mesh polos if you're more daring. If you do this right, you will look like a declious Asian pear. Man in a cream mesh shirt, white tank top, and black shortsMan in a cream retro-styled knit, white trousers, and suede Man in a cream-colored mesh polo, white belt, and white pleaAn Asian pear in a protective mesh wrapper

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy Profile picture
Mar 30
Chris Pine has been getting some fits off Chris Pine in an olive single-breasted, notch lapel, three-rChris Pine in white double-breasted suit with wide peak lapeChris Pine in a shawl collar, self-striped, black tuxedo andChris Pine in a black, snap-button, Western styled jacket, r
i like how the jackets aren't super tight and short. and the pants are well-proportioned to match the jacket (i.e., they're not super skinny). the result is a much more flattering and comfortable-looking silhouette. A full shot of Chris Pine's olive suit outfitA full shot of Chris Pine's cream double-breasted suit outfi
tailoring trivia: line here is called a front dart. it's added to give the waist some shaping. most front darts terminate at the pocket. if you see a front dart extend past the pocket and reach the hem, there's a good (but not 100%) chance the suit was made in Naples, Italy A close up of Chris Pine's olive suit shows the front dart.
Read 4 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Mar 28
A very enjoyable article about J. Crew.

newyorker.com/magazine/2023/…
along with being beautifully written, i love how this piece interweaves multicultural history, deep references, and a genuinely good understanding of menswear (despite being written by someone who doesn't typically write about menswear). wish more menswear writing was like this
Something not explored, but I've sometimes wondered about, is how JCrew's retail footprint looked from 2005-2015-ish. IMO, the fall of Brooks Brothers is deeply tied to its real estate agreements. As the company expanded its number of retail stores and got locked into leases...
Read 6 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Mar 28
WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A SUIT JACKET, SPORT COAT, AND BLAZER?

A friend of mine recently emailed me to ask whether he accidentally bought a suit jacket by mistake, when he wanted a sport coat. I see this sort of thing happen often, so let's break down the differences 🧵
First, understand that a suit is just a garment where the jacket and pants have been cut from the same cloth. This distinguishes it from the frock coat, which is what "proper" gentlemen wore before suits became popular. A man in a frock coatMen in suits.
By the early 20th-cent, the frock coat fell out of favor and was replaced by suits and sport coats.

See how the suit on the left is made to be worn with matching pants. The sport coat on the right is made to be worn with pants cut from a different cloth. Duke Ellington in a flannel suit.Humphrey Bogart in a tweed sport coat and what looks to be g
Read 24 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Mar 27
This is old hat for anyone who has followed menswear for a while, but I love these old drawings from Apparel Arts (AA). AA was a large format, a quarterly publication that was a precursor to Esquire. They were distributed to clothiers so SAs could advise customers how to dress An Apparel Arts page showing how men can dress while huntingAn Apparel Arts page showing how men can dress for a winter
One of the cool things about AA is that each issue came with fabric swatches, so you could get a better sense of the clothes. Each issue was like a textile class. You'd learned what gabardine, cavalry twill, whipcord, thornproof, hopsack, and other materials FELT like Illustrations of how men dressed in the 1930s with accompanyIllustrations of how men dressed in the 1930s with accompanyIllustrations of how men dressed in the 1930s with accompanyIllustrations of how men dressed in the 1930s with accompany
Some of the drawings were very stylized. Look at how cool these look! Two men hunting. One is in a brown tweed sport coat, yellow A man in a grey double-breasted overcoat, brown trousers, anA man in a grey checked single-breasted suit, navy v-neck, cTwo men wearing tennis clothing. One is in a tennis vest, wh
Read 12 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Mar 25
The puckering you see on Biden's suit—starting from his shoulder and going down his armhole—is a result of steaming. Sometimes I tell men "don't steam ur suit" and they say "I do it all the time and it's fine." But this is only bc you dont know what to look for 🧵 Biden in a blue suit, white shirt, and purple striped tieA close up of the puckering on Biden's suit
Steamers are these handheld things (sometimes they're a little bigger). They blast hot steam through your garment, which helps the fibers relax and make the fabric "shed" its wrinkles. People commonly use these because they don't know how to press a suit. A man steams a tailored jacket
When you blow hot steam through a tailored garment, you can cause all sorts of damage. If the jacket is fused, you can delaminate the fusing. Even if it's canvased, you can cause the seams to permanently pucker. Puckering along the lapelPuckering around the front dart of a jacket.
Read 9 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Mar 23
doing a story about why Americans don't mend clothes anymore and was talking to Linda Przybyszewski, author of The Lost Art of Dress. she brought up a really good point: ppl don't mend clothes because clothes have become simpler, which has contributed to their cheapening 🧵
her example: in the mid-century, an American woman would have paid about $300 for a dress ($300 in today's dollars). this dress might have a matching collar and cuffs, a scarf, a belted waist, and a skirt made from six separate pieces of fabric, etc. it was complicated to make! two women in blue dresses with belted waists and pleated ski
over time, clothes have become simpler. a t-shirt, for instance, is just four panels and a collar (if the body is tubular, then four panels is reduced to three). this is a much simpler garment to make, which allows companies to reduce costs and sell cheaper clothes. a woman in a blue t-shirt and blue jeans
Read 10 tweets

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