Thread by @dieworkwear

HOW TO TELL IF A SUIT IS BESPOKE

This suit makes me sad bc it's an example of the many ways custom tailoring shops upsell or misrepresent their services. On their site, this tailor says their suits are handmade and bespoke. But that's not really true. Here's how to tell 🧵

https://twitter.com/jacksonhinklle/status/1650967396847603716

First, what's bespoke? Bespoke means the garment is made from scratch. That means drafting the pattern from scratch using the client's measurements, sewing the garment by hand except for long seams, and adjusting the garment through a series of fittings.

(IG steedbespoketailors)

Nowadays, many tailors, including those on Savile Row, draft their patterns by adjusting them off pre-made blocks. This is not necessarily bad, per se. But a lazy tailor can rely too much on their blocks, resulting in a bad fit.

Drafting a pattern from a block puts the process a little closer to made-to-measure (MTM), where blocks are always adjusted using a computer-aided design program. There are limits on how much you can adjust a block, which is why MTM has limitations in terms of fit.

One of the main differences between bespoke and MTM is the number of fittings. Bespoke involves at least two, usually three fittings—basted, forward, and final. At each fitting, the garment is slightly adjusted, which theoretically should achieve the best fit.

MTM only has one fitting. You go in, get measured, and the garment is made straight to finish (buttonholes are cut, which limits what can be adjusted, such as length). You then come in for your single and final fitting. Adjustments are like what happens with RTW.

If a tailor tells you a garment is bespoke, but you only get one fitting, be suspicious. You are likely in MTM territory.

This particular clothier sells their services as bespoke, and while you can pay for more fittings and handwork, the base price is one fitting + machine-made

How can you tell if a suit is machine-made? Realistically, most ppl can't tell if a sleeve or collar has been hand attached. They will certainly not be able to tell if the chest and lapels have been pad stitched by hand without opening up the coat.

Years ago, I had a disagreement with a friend about whether anyone could spot the difference between high-end ready-to-wear and bespoke. I don't think anyone can; he disagrees. You can read the nuances of the argument here

dieworkwear.com/2020/02/20/can…

However, there is one telltale sign. No RTW or MTM suit manufacturer will pick-stitch their lapels by hand. Doing so adds about an hour to labor, which can really drive up the final cost because of price multipliers.

You can tell when the lapels have been pick stitched by hand because machine-picked stitches look like they were done with a nail gun (pic 1). Hand pick stitches are soft (pic 2), unless they were done in Naples, Italy (pic 3)

dieworkwear.com/2019/08/10/on-…

It bums me out when custom tailoring shops misrepresent their services as bespoke because this makes things harder for real bespoke tailors. If a tailor tells you a suit is bespoke, but you only get one fitting, and you see machine picked lapels, beware. You are being lied to.