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derek guy Profile picture
@dieworkwear
May 13 • 11 tweets • 4 min read Twitter logo Read on Twitter
I think I've done a pretty good job of covering a wide range of budgets for people who are interested in dressing better. Here are just some resources: Image
I've done multiple Twitter threads on how to find cool clothes on eBay:

Here is a post with tons of suggestions on how to build a wardrobe on a budget

putthison.com/is-it-classist…
Here is a series on value-focused brands

putthison.com/tag/value-focu…
Here's a series on affordable outwear (I've written multiple posts like this for nearly every product category and have done deep dives into specific items that I love and personally wear, such as Lee's 101J)

putthison.com/tag/outerwear-…
In my guide for where to shop for a suit or sport coat, prices begin at $300 (they can be even lower on sale)

dieworkwear.com/2020/09/25/whe…
Twice a week for the last 12 years, I've rounded up cool menswear auctions on eBay and published them in lists that are publicly available at Put This On. Every Sunday, I also send out a list of store sales and even more eBay auctions to subscribers

putthison.com/tag/ebay-round…
Here's one more post about how to shop on a budget

There's too much to mention here, but you can find many of these resources by just searching Put This On's archive. You can do so by using the nav bar at the top of the site.

putthison.com/how-to-shop-on…
I'm not trying to be rude, but I can't find specific things for your specific wardrobe, given your specific budget. But I have published a lot of content that spans a very wide range of budgets, and you can use those resources to find what works for you.

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy Profile picture
May 13
i think lots of people believe you need lots of $$$ to dress well bc they think of style in terms of following trends and designers. and that dressing well is about your ability to pass for "wealthy." even fast fashion brands are about copying "rich looks." this is zara FW21: Image
but you can also think of style in terms of social language, and just as there are many types of spoken languages, there are many types of fashion languages. and some people speak those languages better than others.
the history of 20th-century dress is about how people of moderate means shaped aesthetic culture. hippies, punks, Mods, rockers, Teddy Boys, les zazous, Lo Heads, and others created their own fashion and infused these looks with social meaning. others then followed. Image
Read 6 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
May 11
George Will wrote an op-ed yesterday about how public life would be better if ppl got back into preppy clothing. There's a lot with it that I disagree, but my main issue is that this sort of finger-wagging, anti-modernity framing is counterproductive & just makes prep look lame. Image
I'm not particularly wedded to prep (although I love tailored clothing). But if you want ppl to wear these clothes again, you have to talk about figures like Andy Warhol and Miles Davis, funny stories about bleeding madras, and other things that *inspire* ImageImageImageImage
There is a whole section of the internet, along with a media machine that churns out these op-eds every 2 months, that does nothing but finger-wag about modernity, and these deeply uncool characters only cement ppl's prejudices, ensuring no one wears these clothes again.
Read 4 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
May 10
Many ppl who fetishize the superficialities of classic style are not "clothes guys," so they are prone to getting its history wrong. Classic American dress didn't spring from Catholic morality but rather an intersection of Jewish tailors, elite campuses, and Black musicians.
You can't talk about classic American dress without talking about Brooks Brothers, J. Press, The Andover Shop, Winston Tailors, etc. Nearly all of the clothiers associated with Ivy Style were run by Jewish people (even Brooks Bros, for a time, was owned by Julius Garfinkel Co.) Image
Who dressed Catholic Ivy Style figures such as JFK? Winston Tailors, owned by Sidney Winston, a Jewish man who got his start where? At J. Press, founded by Jacobi Press, a Latvian Jewish immigrant who eschewed rabbinical training to pursue a career in menswear ImageImage
Read 14 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
May 9
The issue of respectability in dress, and what constitutes "proper" attire in public, has raged for as long as people have worn clothes. People who take this position fail to recognize that their own clothes were once the "yoga pants" of their day. I will run through examples 🧵
The most obvious is the tailored jacket, which today stands as a symbol of upper-class respectability. Eric, himself, wears a tailored jacket in his profile picture. The sport coat, however, started as a sports garment (an older version of athleisure).
Further back, the suit was once the "cargo shorts" of its day. At the turn of the 20th cent, men in high positions, such as finance and law, wore the frock coat. Working-class people, such as clerks, wore the fustian lounge suit (what we today would call a business suit) ImageImage
Read 16 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
May 8
The amount of handwork that goes into a suit ("artisanal approach") has very little to do with how well it will fit you. You can look very stylish in a machine-made garment. It's about developing an eye for what looks good and understanding the language of dress. 🧵
Here's my friend @mossrockss, who spends something like $300 for sport coats, $150 for trousers, and $50 for jeans. Yes, this is more than most ppl spend, but it's a lot less than what someone would consider "artisanal clothing." Yet, he looks great bc he knows what works for him ImageImageImageImage
If you want affordable, tailored clothing, check Spier & Mackay. Sport coats start around $300; suis start around $450. Not cheap, but hardly "artisanal prices."

spierandmackay.com
Read 6 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
May 8
Some interesting issues with Nick's coat. I will run through the obvious problems and then talk about something called "balance."

🧵
The obvious issues with Nick's coat:

1. Roll between shoulder blades (highlighted here behind the collar). Very common and easy to fix

2. Lapels buckle away from the chest

3. Hard to tell from this angle, but possibly a divot at the sleevehead Photo highlighting the roll...
When buying a tailored jacket, always make sure the coat fits first and foremost through the chest and shoulders. These areas are difficult and expensive to alter. If the lapels buckle, the chest is too small. Photo of Nick in his too-sm...Antonio Panico in a suit th...
Read 12 tweets

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