derek guy Profile picture
May 27 5 tweets 2 min read Twitter logo Read on Twitter
Of course that's your contention. You're a first-year menswear forum poster. You just got finished reading a classic menswear book—Alan Flusser probably—and you're convinced that the flattering effects of tailoring rendered in moderate proportions create the most enduring style. Image
You're gonna be convinced of that 'till next month when you get to Reddit poster Maison MoreJelly. Then you're going to be talking about how nothing is truly timeless, and every style reflects the spirit of the age, as evidenced by Roman togas, Regency dandies, and Rei Kawakubo.
Well, as a matter of fact, I won't, because Maison MoreJelly drastically underestimates the impact of Old... Image
Mason MoreJelly drastically underestimates the impact of Old Hollywood aesthetics on the avant-garde, such as Greta Garbo's black drapey dresses on Rick Owen's decayed glamour? You got that from PabloThriftscobar, page 98 of the thread "Is Raf Simons Libertarian?" I read that too Image
Were you gonna plagiarize the whole thing for us? Do you have any thoughts of your own? Or is that your thing, you come into a forum, read some obscure blog posts, and pawn them off as your own ideas just to impress some divorced middle-aged men who argue about pants all day?

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More from @dieworkwear

May 27
I continued to be amazed at how many LGBTQ+ activists unknowingly wear fashions that were similarly controversial decades ago. Here, Jimmy is rapping about how Target is supposedly promoting Satanism. 🧵
But on his Instagram, he's wearing a down-market version of bondage pants, which have become popular in the hip-hop community ever since A$AP Rocky rapped about Raf Simons (who produced a version of these pants in the early 2000s). They are now coded as "streetwear." Image
The style, however, goes back to Vivian Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, who mashed together military and bondage design elements in the 1970s for shock value. For a time, the only way you could get these pants was through their London boutique, called SEX (stylized with all caps). ImageImage
Read 7 tweets
May 26
I often get questions on how to wear sport coats with jeans. This can be hard to answer online bc the answer has to do with subtle dimensions in a fabric—sheen, texture, feel—which don't always easily translate online. But this is a good picture 🧵
The reason why this doesn't work is because the jacket is too obviously part of a suit. You can tell bc the fabric is very smooth, fine, and has a slight sheen. When you wear a jacket like this, it just looks like you forgot your suit pants. ImageImage
What you should do is find something with texture: hopsack, serge, Mock Leno, and such all work with jeans.

Here are online swatches of various blue textured fabrics that would work with denim: Harrisons Moonbeam, W Bill Shetland, Moon lambswool twill ImageImageImage
Read 7 tweets
May 24
articles like this only reinforce the common misconception that fashion has no relevance to most people's lives. it frames fashion in terms of designers, influencers, celebrities, and in-the-know New Yorkers, rather than a broader, more social framing

gq.com/story/welcome-…
much like how Very Online people think that Twitter is real life, I feel like a lot of Very Fashion people think that small happenings in small circles around NYC or London or Paris mean something to most people. the early- and late-adopters here are the same people
instead of framing this almost entirely around celebs, influencers, and designers—whose opinions and positions are ever-changing—why not frame it around the social movements that gave this sneaker more lasting meaning? this allows ppl to understand what they're wearing Image
Read 4 tweets
May 24
sneakers at the capitol would unironically be better if everyone just ditched suits and wore regular sneakers (e.g., nike, new balance, etc) with jeans and hoodies, rather than these dress sneaker mashups
Sneaker options if you're looking

Classics:

- Nike Jordan 1, Air Force 1, Air Max
- Adidas Sambas or Stan Smiths
- Converse Chuck Taylor 70s or Jack Purcells
- New Balance 574 or 1400
- Vans Authentics or Eras
- Sperry Cloud CVO
- Superga 2750 Cotu
- Tretorn Nylites Nike Air MaxNew Balance 574Sperry Cloud CVOAdidas Sambas
Options if you want to wear something different

- Nike Tailwind 79 or Waffle Racer
- New Balance 550
- Spalwart Marathon Low
- Novesta Marathon Trail
- Doek Oxford Canvas
- Shoes Like Pottery
- German Army Trainer on eBay or Etsy

Be careful with sizing/ returns when buying Spalwart Marathon LowsDoak Oxford CanvasShoes Like PotteryGerman Army Trainers
Read 4 tweets
May 20
i find that the people I rankle most here are involved in technology in some way (either through academia or the private sector). Many bristle at the idea that clothing can hold great meaning for a great number of people 🧵 Image
I think this is bc many of them have constructed this idea of themselves that they are above such frivolities. They are so concerned with deeper, more intellectual things that even wearing something more than a T-shirt and jeans indicates you are not a serious person
In these instances, I'm reminded of this blog post, titled "Inside the Mirrortocracy," written some years ago by a former software engineer named Carlos. The post is about the business culture inside Silicon Valley tech companies.

carlos.bueno.org/2014/06/mirror…
Read 12 tweets
May 19
I was cited in today's NYT article on whether dress sneakers belong in the Oval Office. IMO, McConnell gets a pass bc he recently suffered a serious fall, but the other two reps—one Dem, other GOP—should wear traditional dress shoes befit for the office

nytimes.com/2023/05/19/sty…
Something that bothers me about these conventions is that they apply unequally to people of different positions of power. If you work in an office—Oval or otherwise—and you are a low-level staffer or young intern, how do you signal you're serious about your job?
Historically, the answer would be to show up in the conventional coat and tie uniform: dark suit, white shirt, conservative tie, and black or dark brown dress shoes. However, as dress norms have loosened and people wear all sorts of things, the answer is not so clear. Image
Read 9 tweets

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