derek guy Profile picture
Jun 2, 2023 9 tweets 4 min read Read on X
A few ppl have pointed out that my threads on Matt Walsh and others neither debunk their views nor will they have any impact on changing people's minds on LGBTQ+ issues. This is true. I do them partly bc I think it's ironic how many anti-LGBTQ+ activists now dress metrosexual. 🧵
I also do them bc it's hard to illustrate certain points without posting photos of bad outfits. And I don't like posting photos of regular ppl who I think are dressed badly. If someone is just trying to feel better in their clothes, it's lame to put them on blast.
I feel less bad, however, posting photos of celebs or ppl who have made a career off being cruel to people. These side-by-side comparisons aren't meant to change anyone's mind on LGBTQ+ issues—this is a Twitter thread, be realistic—but to help ppl develop an eye for what works. Image
There are many ways to dress. Fashion doesn't even have to be about looking conventionally attractive or flattering one's figure. A good outfit can be concealing, unflattering, or even disfiguring. Much depends on the cultural language of dress and one's identity & intentions. ImageImageImage
There's nothing wrong with wearing skinny jeans, short suit jackets, or other types of clothing. Although I do think there's such a thing as good vs. bad outfits. These are good: ImageImage
It's more about figuring out what works for your body type, lifestyle, identity, etc. And not thoughtlessly jumping from trend to trend, unaware of the meaning of clothes, or buying stuff just to fit in. This aesthetic is not pleasing: Image
The real point of all these threads is to help ppl develop an eye, so that they may get more pleasure from dress. So they feel confident in what they wear, know what works for them, and have long-lasting relationships with their purchases.
If someone buys a skinny, short suit and it happens to work for their body type, lifestyle, and identity, then it doesn't matter if the trend is "over." But figuring this out takes looking at good & bad outfits, diff silhouettes/ styles for diff body types, and knowing what works ImageImageImageImage
This is primarily a menswear account, so you should expect that the main thrust of most posts—albeit not all—is about men's clothing. No one is under any illusion that commenting on a bad outfit is going to change large-scale structural and social prejudices against people.

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More from @dieworkwear

Jul 8
I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")

I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵 Image
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.

It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects. Image
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Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250. Image
Read 24 tweets
Jul 4
This ended up raising $5,000 for @feederofcats, so here's a thread on whether President Zelenskyy wore a suit. 🧵
Ahead of the NATO summit last month, President Zelenskyy arrived at the Paleis Huis ten Bosch wearing this outfit: a black jacket with matching black pants and a black shirt. Many debated whether this qualifies as a suit, as there's a $50M bet on it at Polymarket. Image
To understand the suit, we must place it in history.

During the Regency period (early 1800s), British men in high positions wore a long fitted garment known as the frock coat, which had a waist seam and full skirt. These garments were often quite colorful and expressive! Image
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Read 19 tweets
Jul 1
Any time I talk about a wealthy person's outfit, someone in the comments is quick to reply: "They're rich, you think they care?" No one has to care about my opinions or clothes, regardless of net worth.

But let's talk about the connection between wealth and aesthetics 🧵 Image
About a year ago, Tucker Carlson told Chris Cuomo that "postmodern architecture" is intentionally designed to deaden the spirit. The clip was widely circulated online by people such as Benny Johnson, who seemingly agreed.
Postmodern architecture was actually a very brief movement that emerged in the 1960s as a counter-reaction to modernism's austerity and uniformity. Examples of postmodernism include Michael Graves's Portland Building and Guild House. Also Phillip Johnson's PPG Place. Image
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Read 17 tweets
Jul 1
Trump released a $250 fragrance (one for women, one for men).

Sometimes a fragrance can be expensive because it contains certain ingredients or involve artisanal, small-batch production. But with no note breakdown or even a description of the scent, what justifies this price? Image
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I'm reminded of this 2016 blog post by Luca Turin, one of the best writers on fragrances. Even for niche perfumery he warns: "Niche perfumery stands a good chance of disappearing up its own rear end if it merely becomes yet another golden opportunity to rip off the customer." Image
If you're into fragrances, as I am, I encourage you to not support celebrity bullshit like this. Go to real perfumers. Some of my favorites include:

— AbdesSalaam Attar: He's a self-taught Sicilian Sufi perfumer who only uses natural ingredients. Many of his perfumes feel like you're walking through a Middle Eastern bazaar or spice market. Milano Caffe, Cuoio dei Dolci, and Tabac are worth a sniff. He can also do bespoke perfumes using your favorite notes.

— DS & Durga: David Moltz describes himself as doing "scent travel." He has an uncanny ability to transport you to far off places. I like Cowboy Grass, Debaser, Amber Kiso, and Burning Barbershop. If you can get a sample of his Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake Sample (made part of his Hylands collection), it's really good with tailored tweeds.

— Anything by Jean Claude Ellena: One of the most famous perfumers in the world. His scents have been likened to watercolor paintings and chamber music because they're light, airy, and have a transparent quality. This makes them particularly good for spring/ summer. Check his scents from Hermes, such as Terre d'Hermes and Un Jardin sur le Nil, which are easy to find on discount. L'Eau d'Hiver for Frederic Malle is also great, but a bit more expensive.

— Tauer Perfumes: Andy Tauer is a chemist and self-taught perfumer who specializes in dry, spicy, woody scents. L'Air du Desert Marocain makes you feel like you're in the middle of the desert at night. Lonestar Memories is like being next to a crackling campfire while picking up on the scent of tobacco and leather. IMO, a must try if you're exploring niche perfumery.

Always try to get samples before buying a bottle. Check shops such as Luckyscent, Surrender to Chance, and The Perfumed Court. Also pick up a copy of Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.Image
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Read 4 tweets
Jun 29
People think I'm biased against Jeff Bezos, but here's F. Caraceni Sartoria, widely considered one of the best bespoke tailoring houses in the world, commenting on Bezos's wedding suit.

"The most terrible, frightening, horrible tuxedo ever seen in my life. I'm really suffering" Image
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Nothing to do with politics, only quality tailoring. F. Caraceni made suits for Silvio Berlusconi, who was hardly beloved by progressives. Many people don't know much about tailoring, which is fine, but this doesn't mean that rich or expensive = good.

Caraceni's work: Image
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Here is a dinner suit F. Caraceni made for Yves Saint Laurent. Image
Read 4 tweets
Jun 28
Since my tweet about Jeff Bezos, I've been getting a lot of replies such as these. "Where do these dress rules come from?" "When do they change?"

These are very good questions, so let me answer them. 🧵 Image
Let's first run through some experiments. Please make up your mind at each step, so you are not influenced by what I'm about to say.

Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans. Which do you think looks better? Image
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Here are two men wearing a tuxedo. Which outfit do you think looks better? Image
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Read 23 tweets

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