derek guy Profile picture
Jun 6, 2023 15 tweets 8 min read Read on X
YOU SHOULD CONSIDER HIGH-RISE TROUSERS

I think I've been writing mainly for menswear-obsessed guys for so long that it had not occurred to me that high-rise trousers could still be controversial in 2023. So let's run through some points. 🧵
First, if you're wearing a tailored jacket (e.g., suit jacket or sport coat), you should wear high-rise trousers. Low-rise trousers create this ugly shirt triangle below the buttoning point. High-rise trousers create a more coherent, streamlined look between jacket and pants ImageImage
Some people think that high-rise trousers look old-fashioned and out of date. First, I think you should dress for your body type, not according to trends. Low-rise jeans and trousers are best on stick-thin models, who they were created for. ImageImage
A lot of stick-thin guys though are not wearing them in that edgy, cool way. They are wearing them in this really bland way, and the effect ends up making your torso look weirdly long and your legs weirdly short. Image
High-rise trousers lengthen your leg line and bring the proportion between your torso and legs into better balance. It had not occurred to me that some people could still think they're categorically bad, so let's run through some stereotypes:
"High-rise trousers aren't cool." ImageImageImageImage
"High-rise trousers are for older guys." ImageImageImageImage
"High-rise trousers don't work for bigger guys." ImageImage
In the summertime, when it's too hot to layer, it's even more important that your shirt and pants are on point. One way to create a more flattering, stylish silhouette is to wear higher-rise trousers. Pair with a tucked linen button-up shirt or a camp collar shirt. Super easy. ImageImageImage
Of course, as ever, people can wear what they want. I am only presenting my views. But this summer outfit is cool as hell, and the trousers add a lot to the look. If you haven't yet considered higher-rise trousers, I think you should give them a chance.
Some people have asked for options. I'm tweeting this with great trepidation bc anytime I mention something over $50, ppl get mad. The following spans a large price range, so if you encounter something out of your budget, keep going down the list (they are, however, above $100)
For trousers (in no particular order):

Dapper Classics, O'Connell's, Rota selection at No Man Walks Alone, The Armoury, Spier & Mackay, Besnard, Scott Fraser Simpson, J. Press, The Andover Shop, Casatlantic, and Berg & Berg

When shopping, check measurements and return policy.
For jeans, you don't want an actual high rise. You want just something a little higher than the low-rise stuff. So check:

Levis Vintage Clothing 1947 501s, Drake's, The Armoury, 3sixteen CS cut, Orslow 105 and 107, and Blackhorse Lane N3. I would also contact @selfedge for recs
i didn't want to say it, but yes. I still don't think you should dress according to trends, but the reality is that young people are into wider fits and higher rises, while older people are the ones in the slim fit, low rise silhouette of the early 2000s

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every counter argument in this thread uses photos that literally look nothing like the examples that i've posted (which, by the way, are of real people in normal settings, not professional photoshoots). whereas i use real examples of how actual ppl look in low rise pants ImageImageImageImage

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More from @dieworkwear

May 10
It's very hard to find a suit jacket that can be worn with jeans, assuming you mean the kind of suits that would be worn for business. Let me show you. 🧵
What do we mean by "suit?" The term suit simply means that the jacket and pants were cut from the same cloth. You can have corduroy suits or linen suits. But when most people say suit, they mean the kind of outfits that would be worn for business, funerals, and court. Image
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Such materials are typically dark in color and slick in feel. Historically, men wore these things with white dress shirts, dark ties, and black oxford shoes to do business in London. This history is why this outfit telegraphs "I'm here for serious business." Image
Read 12 tweets
May 9
I disagree. In this thread, I will tell you what's wrong with Stephen Miller's outfits. Hopefully, this will help you judge whether a suit fits when you're shopping for one. 🧵 Image
For context, here is the video that @FischerKing64 is responding to. Can you spot the issue with this suit?
It appears that Miller has spent a considerable sum upgrading his wardrobe since his time in Trump's first administration. I suspect these are all made-to-measure suits because they look new and come in a wide variety of materials. Unfortunately, all of them exhibit a collar gap. Image
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Read 16 tweets
May 7
Sure. I'll give a breakdown of why most people think the right pant is better. 🧵
For reference, the reply is in response to this video, where it appears the majority of people like the right pant better on this person. Why is this?

IG justin__kwan
Most people approach clothing in terms of trends. If skinny or baggy clothes are fashionable at the moment, they go with the crowd. Trends certainly play a role in how we perceive things. Even Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, wore slimmer trousers toward the end of his life. Image
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Read 19 tweets
May 5
pretty great Image
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the tassels on lewis hamilton's outfit appear to be hand knotted, an old technique that's somewhat disappearing, even in the world of bespoke Image
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Read 17 tweets
May 3
There are lots of misconceptions in the replies to @mattyglesias's post below. Will address some of them in this thread. 🧵
"We no longer make clothes in the US."

Not true! US-made clothing has always existed. However, the quality stuff struggles because people are often not willing to pay what it costs to produce these items. These items will only get more expensive with tariffs, not less.Image
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"Tariffs will get rid of cheap, crappy clothing."

Also not true! The US makes a lot of cheap, crappy clothing, some even in sweatshops. This system is made possible because US garment factories run on the piece-rate system, where workers are paid per operation, not time.Image
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Read 11 tweets
May 1
I can answer this question.

Here's how these tariffs can affect the average American. 🧵 Image
Although tailoring has mostly receded from daily life, it continues to be the expected uniform for some of life's most important moments, such as weddings and funerals. Image
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Unfortunately, since these moments are few and far between, that means most cities don't have good tailoring shops. I often get emails asking: "Where can I get a suit for cheap?" Or "I'm an unusual size, where can I find a suit?" This is where online shopping comes in.
Read 13 tweets

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