derek guy Profile picture
Jun 14 5 tweets 3 min read Twitter logo Read on Twitter
lots of guys in this thread debating whether this person looks better on the left or right, or why/how women wear make-up, but a lot of people who are into clothes and make-up are not doing so to attract a mate. ur not the audience. they do it for themselves and their peers
i find that a lot of ppl who don't have a strong interest in clothing or style can't wrap their head around the idea that some people are into such things outside of utilitarian purposes: finding love, getting a better job, getting better service, etc.
lots of guys who are into clothes as a hobby do all sorts of crazy things: wear weird clothes from rare Japanese brands, wear jeans for 6 months without washing, go to great lengths to get a detail right. no one is doing this so they can have sex. they do it to impress peers.
getting pushback on this and just want to share two things that serious menswear guys are into

1. kapital ring coat. IMO, one of the best coats
2. not washing ur jeans for as long as possible

you think guys are doing this stuff to impress women?

ImageImage
to be fair, that's not how the coat is supposed to be worn. the person in that photo is doing it for comedic effect. it's supposed to be worn like this. still, the style is eclectic and obvs only for the pleasure of the wearer and/or impressing ppl who are "in the know" ImageImageImageImage

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More from @dieworkwear

Jun 15
I wrote earlier that this advice is bad and these outfits don't work. some ppl asked what would be my version. I don't think there's any easily distillable advice that works for everyone. your wardrobe should fit your lifestyle, environment, personality, etc 🧵
most men need a solid navy or grey wool suit for things such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, big meetings, religious services, etc. these events can come up unexpectedly, which is why if you don't have this type of suit, you should shop for one now. ImageImage
but after that, there's no second or third choice that works for everyone. a good choice takes into account your needs, lifestyle, climate, personality, etc. if you work in a corporate environment that requires suits, you should get at least four more dark business suits Image
Read 18 tweets
Jun 15
different versions of this audio keep going around, but none of the outfits work bc suit jackets can't always be worn as sport coats. pinstripe is distinctly a suit pattern. fine worsted grey wool is also only for suits. not everything can be broken up like this
generally don't like commenting on regular ppl's content, but it's concerning how many people are spending a lot of money bc of these viral videos. the language of suit versus sport coat fabrics is about more than color. it includes texture, sheen, pattern, etc
Read 5 tweets
Jun 10
This received a lot of attention, so I will list a few more tailoring houses that do work for women. Note: most custom tailoring houses will make stuff for women, but these are some that I've seen do more work than others. Will include some thoughts at the end on custom tailoring
Sartoria Dalcuore makes very soft garments with little padding. When garments are made like this, they tend to sit a little closer to the body (in a classic way, not fashion industry slim). Good for a more "relaxed" look.

IG sartoria_dalcuore
Site: sartoriadalcuore.com ImageImageImageImage
Edward Sexton is much more structured, which allows them to create sharp, angular lines. Sexton himself cut for Bianca Jagger, Twiggy, and Diana Ross. Today, the firm's head cutter is Nina, who came over from Gieves & Hawkes.

IG edwardsexton
Site: edwardsexton.co.uk ImageImageImageImage
Read 9 tweets
Jun 7
I've always believed you should dress the best you can while also letting others dress how they want. My friend Andy and his wife Michèle dress up every Friday to get dinner. By dress up, I mean formalwear (black tie for Andy). They don't care if patrons are dressed casually. 🧵 Image
Every culture in the world has ideas about what constitutes decorum in public life. In some settings, such as weddings, there is such a thing as dressing respectfully, as you don't want to take anything away from the people getting married.
But in less formal settings—including restaurants that charge $30/entree—codes are more relaxed. And it gets dicey once you equate dress with what's in someone's heart.

I will relay a story a Christian friend once told me (I hope I get it right) Image
Read 11 tweets
Jun 7
i know "life after college" discourse is old now, but im surprised at the negative reaction to that video. disappointment with adult life, suburban death, & modern ennui were big themes in post-war cultural criticism. also marx alienation of labor. these come up often on twitter
saying "he's middle class," "he gets off at 4:30" or "he just needs a romantic partner" would not have been considered reasonable counterpoints to such post-war criticism. the only real issue i have with the video is that such observations of modern life are a bit stale.
sorry, but one more thing. "he has agency and could make friends" touches on Putnam's Bowling Alone. It's hard to make friends nowadays! There is not much civic life; gone are the social clubs that were around in mid-cent America. Culture and institutions shape our lives! ImageImage
Read 4 tweets
Jun 6
YOU SHOULD CONSIDER HIGH-RISE TROUSERS

I think I've been writing mainly for menswear-obsessed guys for so long that it had not occurred to me that high-rise trousers could still be controversial in 2023. So let's run through some points. 🧵
First, if you're wearing a tailored jacket (e.g., suit jacket or sport coat), you should wear high-rise trousers. Low-rise trousers create this ugly shirt triangle below the buttoning point. High-rise trousers create a more coherent, streamlined look between jacket and pants ImageImage
Some people think that high-rise trousers look old-fashioned and out of date. First, I think you should dress for your body type, not according to trends. Low-rise jeans and trousers are best on stick-thin models, who they were created for. ImageImage
Read 15 tweets

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