derek guy Profile picture
Jun 15, 2023 18 tweets 8 min read Read on X
I wrote earlier that this advice is bad and these outfits don't work. some ppl asked what would be my version. I don't think there's any easily distillable advice that works for everyone. your wardrobe should fit your lifestyle, environment, personality, etc 🧵
most men need a solid navy or grey wool suit for things such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, big meetings, religious services, etc. these events can come up unexpectedly, which is why if you don't have this type of suit, you should shop for one now. ImageImage
but after that, there's no second or third choice that works for everyone. a good choice takes into account your needs, lifestyle, climate, personality, etc. if you work in a corporate environment that requires suits, you should get at least four more dark business suits Image
if you live in an area where it gets very hot, either for part of the year or the entire year, get these in tropical wool, which is an open-weave wool that allows your skin to breathe. (this suit is brown. for business settings, you will need navy or grey). ImageImage
conversely, if you need something for cold weather, get something like woolen flannel

get these suits in a mix of colors (medium grey, dark grey, navy) and patterns (solid, semi-solid) so you have options while easily mixing and matching with shirts, shoes, ties, etc Image
however, very few men nowadays need multiple suits for business. so your second and third suit requires you to ask: "how will i be using this garment?" "where will i be wearing it?" "when will i be wearing it? spring/summer? fall/winter? afternoon or evening?"
if you want a suit you can wear during the daytime in the summer months for things such as brunch with mom, going to the city and shopping, or other fun, casual activities, then get a tan, brown, or cream suit in linen or cotton ImageImageImageImage
in the right cut and material, some of these linen or cotton suits can be broken into separates. which is to say, you can wear the suit jacket as a sport coat because it *convincingly passes* for a sport coat. doesn't just look like you're wearing an orphaned suit jacket Image
cotton and linen hold wrinkles easily. sometimes that doesn't suit the wearer's personality, and they want something shaper. so maybe they get a worsted wool suit in a non-business color. or something like this sage wool-silk blend ImageImage
want something casual for fall/winter? get a thornproof tweed or corduroy suit. the corduroy suit can also be broken into separate because, again, the jacket now convincingly passes for a sport coat. doesn't look like you just lost your suit pants and now wearing the jacket. ImageImage
choosing the right fabric also requires an appreciation for the time of day. in the afternoon, you can wear light colors such as tan. but in the evening, dark suits look better because they fit the mood ImageImage
if you are going out to a nice restaurant in the evening, consider mohair, which has a subtle sheen that glimmers under dim lights. also works well for nighttime parties and rooftop bars. again, it's about taking your environment and use into consideration. Image
a garment should also fit the person's personality. if a person is conservative in nature, then they should stick to conservative suits: brown wool for daytime; maybe navy mohair for evenings out. Image
notice how the details on the above garment are traditional: single-breasted, notch lapel, three-roll-two closure. such details add to the suit's semiotic meaning. they say "im shyy. im just a little fella." a suit is about more than color + fabric. also includes details.
if a person is more adventurous, then their garments should also reflect them. maybe they get a copper-colored mohair suit with a shawl collar for evening events. this requires the right person, lifestyle, and setting to pull off Image
in the above example, the shawl collar is a unique lapel style. the one-button closure also makes the suit more formal, adding to the elegance for evening activities. shawl collar + one button would be wrong on a business suit. you have to consider the details.
don't go into this trying to maximize the number of possible combinations like some combinatorics problem. think about what fits your lifestyle, use cases, setting, personality, etc. there is no easily distillable advice that fits into a tiktok. requires thought and consideration Image
reasonably, most ppl will feel this is too much to learn. but you don't need to learn all this stuff. find trusted clothiers and tailors who can advise you on which types of garments suit your needs. do not buy five cheap suits online bc of a steve harvey tiktok that went viral ImageImage

• • •

Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to force a refresh
 

Keep Current with derek guy

derek guy Profile picture

Stay in touch and get notified when new unrolls are available from this author!

Read all threads

This Thread may be Removed Anytime!

PDF

Twitter may remove this content at anytime! Save it as PDF for later use!

Try unrolling a thread yourself!

how to unroll video
  1. Follow @ThreadReaderApp to mention us!

  2. From a Twitter thread mention us with a keyword "unroll"
@threadreaderapp unroll

Practice here first or read more on our help page!

More from @dieworkwear

Aug 13
Have you ever noticed that people dressed better in the past? Even in the summer, when it was scorching hot?

Why is this? 🧵 Image
Image
I want to first dispel some myths.

Contrary to popular belief, people didn't look better because they were slimmer. We see many corpulent men in the past who dressed better than the average man today. It's not true you can look good in anything if you have an athletic body. Image
Image
Image
Image
Dressing well was also not limited to the rich and famous. A reader sent me pics of his grandpa, born in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) to a working-class Chinese family. He immigrated to London and then Canada, where he worked in an auto parts store and by installing light fixtures. Image
Image
Read 25 tweets
Aug 5
I disagree. I will tell you what's wrong with his jeans. 🧵
Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.

Which do you think looks better? Image
Image
If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better?

The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole. Image
Image
Read 10 tweets
Aug 3
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.

Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.

IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.

Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
Read 5 tweets
Aug 2
I've had enough.

In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.

This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵 Image
I should state two things at the outset.

First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide. Image
Image
Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste. Image
Image
Read 23 tweets
Jul 31
Sometimes I think about the closure of G. Lorenzi, a Milanese gentleman's shop that had been around for almost 100 years until their closure in 2014. The shop was special because it carried so many one-of-a-kind items from artisans — total handmade craft production, not factory. Image
Image
Image
Image
At the time of their closure, they still carried over 20,000 items of 3,000 models, including speciality knives, picnic sets, and nutcrackers. They had over 100 styles of nail clippers and 300 different hairbrushes alone. Proprietor Aldo Lorenzi scoured the world for artisans. Image
Image
Image
Image
There's nothing wrong with factory production. But as more of our lives get taken over by machines — including art and writing — this sort of production feels special.

Trailer for "A Knife Life," a documentary about the store by my friend Gianluca Migliarotti, available on Vimeo
Read 4 tweets
Jul 30
I spent 15 yrs on a menswear forum. The longest argument I had was over a tiny detail that can be seen in this photo. For 6 months, I argued with the same five guys non-stop every day. The argument got so heated the forum owner banned one guy for life.

Here is the detail. 🧵
As I've mentioned before, there's a lot of coded language in menswear. Navy suits can be worn with black oxfords because this was the uniform of London businessmen. Brown tweeds go with brogues because these clothes were worn in the country. In this way, we get formal vs. casual. Image
Image
The same is true for shoes. Tiny details come together to communicate something, much like how words form a sentence. Black is more formal than brown; calfskin more formal than suede or pebble grain; plain design is more formal than broguing. All of this stems from history. Image
Image
Read 20 tweets

Did Thread Reader help you today?

Support us! We are indie developers!


This site is made by just two indie developers on a laptop doing marketing, support and development! Read more about the story.

Become a Premium Member ($3/month or $30/year) and get exclusive features!

Become Premium

Don't want to be a Premium member but still want to support us?

Make a small donation by buying us coffee ($5) or help with server cost ($10)

Donate via Paypal

Or Donate anonymously using crypto!

Ethereum

0xfe58350B80634f60Fa6Dc149a72b4DFbc17D341E copy

Bitcoin

3ATGMxNzCUFzxpMCHL5sWSt4DVtS8UqXpi copy

Thank you for your support!

Follow Us!

:(