I wrote earlier that this advice is bad and these outfits don't work. some ppl asked what would be my version. I don't think there's any easily distillable advice that works for everyone. your wardrobe should fit your lifestyle, environment, personality, etc 🧵
most men need a solid navy or grey wool suit for things such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, big meetings, religious services, etc. these events can come up unexpectedly, which is why if you don't have this type of suit, you should shop for one now.
but after that, there's no second or third choice that works for everyone. a good choice takes into account your needs, lifestyle, climate, personality, etc. if you work in a corporate environment that requires suits, you should get at least four more dark business suits
if you live in an area where it gets very hot, either for part of the year or the entire year, get these in tropical wool, which is an open-weave wool that allows your skin to breathe. (this suit is brown. for business settings, you will need navy or grey).
conversely, if you need something for cold weather, get something like woolen flannel
get these suits in a mix of colors (medium grey, dark grey, navy) and patterns (solid, semi-solid) so you have options while easily mixing and matching with shirts, shoes, ties, etc
however, very few men nowadays need multiple suits for business. so your second and third suit requires you to ask: "how will i be using this garment?" "where will i be wearing it?" "when will i be wearing it? spring/summer? fall/winter? afternoon or evening?"
if you want a suit you can wear during the daytime in the summer months for things such as brunch with mom, going to the city and shopping, or other fun, casual activities, then get a tan, brown, or cream suit in linen or cotton
in the right cut and material, some of these linen or cotton suits can be broken into separates. which is to say, you can wear the suit jacket as a sport coat because it *convincingly passes* for a sport coat. doesn't just look like you're wearing an orphaned suit jacket
cotton and linen hold wrinkles easily. sometimes that doesn't suit the wearer's personality, and they want something shaper. so maybe they get a worsted wool suit in a non-business color. or something like this sage wool-silk blend
want something casual for fall/winter? get a thornproof tweed or corduroy suit. the corduroy suit can also be broken into separate because, again, the jacket now convincingly passes for a sport coat. doesn't look like you just lost your suit pants and now wearing the jacket.
choosing the right fabric also requires an appreciation for the time of day. in the afternoon, you can wear light colors such as tan. but in the evening, dark suits look better because they fit the mood
if you are going out to a nice restaurant in the evening, consider mohair, which has a subtle sheen that glimmers under dim lights. also works well for nighttime parties and rooftop bars. again, it's about taking your environment and use into consideration.
a garment should also fit the person's personality. if a person is conservative in nature, then they should stick to conservative suits: brown wool for daytime; maybe navy mohair for evenings out.
notice how the details on the above garment are traditional: single-breasted, notch lapel, three-roll-two closure. such details add to the suit's semiotic meaning. they say "im shyy. im just a little fella." a suit is about more than color + fabric. also includes details.
if a person is more adventurous, then their garments should also reflect them. maybe they get a copper-colored mohair suit with a shawl collar for evening events. this requires the right person, lifestyle, and setting to pull off
in the above example, the shawl collar is a unique lapel style. the one-button closure also makes the suit more formal, adding to the elegance for evening activities. shawl collar + one button would be wrong on a business suit. you have to consider the details.
don't go into this trying to maximize the number of possible combinations like some combinatorics problem. think about what fits your lifestyle, use cases, setting, personality, etc. there is no easily distillable advice that fits into a tiktok. requires thought and consideration
reasonably, most ppl will feel this is too much to learn. but you don't need to learn all this stuff. find trusted clothiers and tailors who can advise you on which types of garments suit your needs. do not buy five cheap suits online bc of a steve harvey tiktok that went viral
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I disagree that this is an aesthetically pleasing photo. Tristan's outfit ruins it and I'll tell you why. 🧵
I'll assume Tristan is telling the truth when he says he used Photoshop and not AI. If so, this is a very impressive Photoshop job. By removing the scaffold tarp, you reveal more of the building. By removing the other cars, you also achieve more aesthetic coherence.
What is aesthetic coherence? It's the idea that things based on shared history or spirit go together. For instance, I've long said that the Cybertruck could look very cool if you wore certain outfits (futuristic techwear) and lived in a Brutalist home.
Some people are incredulous that you can wear certain shoes without socks, such as leather loafers. Much depends on your body and climate. But I'll tell you one reason why you find this difficult to believe: you buy low quality footwear. 🧵
It's absolutely possible to wear certain shoes without socks. As mentioned in an earlier thread, men have been doing this for over a hundred years. Going sockless makes sense if the outfit is semi-casual (not business clothes).
In fact, if you wear socks with certain footwear styles, such as espadrilles, you will look like you don't know what you're doing.
Tim is right and wrong here. I'll tell you where he's right and where he's wrong. 🧵
It's perfectly fine to wear slip-on shoes without socks. Those who suggest otherwise are simply ignorant and unaware about the history of men's dress.
You don't have to take my word for it. We can go back to Apparel Arts.
Apparel Arts was an early 20th century trade publication that taught men how to dress well. It was sent to clothiers and tailors so they could smartly advise their clients, but it later became a public-facing publication under the title "Esquire."
I get this sort of comment all the time, often about bespoke suits or mechanical watches. "These things are boring," "This is only for rich people," or "Who cares?"
Let me tell you a story. 🧵
Before the age of ready-to-wear, men had clothes made for them, either in the home or, if they could afford one, by a tailor. Ready-made clothing was limited to simple workwear, such as what was worn by sailors or miners.
Tailoring shop, 1780:
In this older method, a tailor would measure you, sometimes using a string (before the invention of tailor's tape). Then they'd use those measurements to draft a pattern, cut the cloth, and produce a garment. This process is called bespoke.
As I've stated many times, suit jackets and sport coats are made from many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, and padding. These layers give the garment its structure so it doesn't fall on you like a t-shirt or dress shirt.
For the chest and lapels, these layers can be attached to each other using a single-needle roll-padding machine, such as you see here. This is what you'll typically see on factory-made suits (this is a Strobel KA-ED machine). Happens both on the low- and high-end.
I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")
I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.
It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects.
Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250.