I wrote earlier that this advice is bad and these outfits don't work. some ppl asked what would be my version. I don't think there's any easily distillable advice that works for everyone. your wardrobe should fit your lifestyle, environment, personality, etc 🧵
most men need a solid navy or grey wool suit for things such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, big meetings, religious services, etc. these events can come up unexpectedly, which is why if you don't have this type of suit, you should shop for one now.
but after that, there's no second or third choice that works for everyone. a good choice takes into account your needs, lifestyle, climate, personality, etc. if you work in a corporate environment that requires suits, you should get at least four more dark business suits
if you live in an area where it gets very hot, either for part of the year or the entire year, get these in tropical wool, which is an open-weave wool that allows your skin to breathe. (this suit is brown. for business settings, you will need navy or grey).
conversely, if you need something for cold weather, get something like woolen flannel
get these suits in a mix of colors (medium grey, dark grey, navy) and patterns (solid, semi-solid) so you have options while easily mixing and matching with shirts, shoes, ties, etc
however, very few men nowadays need multiple suits for business. so your second and third suit requires you to ask: "how will i be using this garment?" "where will i be wearing it?" "when will i be wearing it? spring/summer? fall/winter? afternoon or evening?"
if you want a suit you can wear during the daytime in the summer months for things such as brunch with mom, going to the city and shopping, or other fun, casual activities, then get a tan, brown, or cream suit in linen or cotton
in the right cut and material, some of these linen or cotton suits can be broken into separates. which is to say, you can wear the suit jacket as a sport coat because it *convincingly passes* for a sport coat. doesn't just look like you're wearing an orphaned suit jacket
cotton and linen hold wrinkles easily. sometimes that doesn't suit the wearer's personality, and they want something shaper. so maybe they get a worsted wool suit in a non-business color. or something like this sage wool-silk blend
want something casual for fall/winter? get a thornproof tweed or corduroy suit. the corduroy suit can also be broken into separate because, again, the jacket now convincingly passes for a sport coat. doesn't look like you just lost your suit pants and now wearing the jacket.
choosing the right fabric also requires an appreciation for the time of day. in the afternoon, you can wear light colors such as tan. but in the evening, dark suits look better because they fit the mood
if you are going out to a nice restaurant in the evening, consider mohair, which has a subtle sheen that glimmers under dim lights. also works well for nighttime parties and rooftop bars. again, it's about taking your environment and use into consideration.
a garment should also fit the person's personality. if a person is conservative in nature, then they should stick to conservative suits: brown wool for daytime; maybe navy mohair for evenings out.
notice how the details on the above garment are traditional: single-breasted, notch lapel, three-roll-two closure. such details add to the suit's semiotic meaning. they say "im shyy. im just a little fella." a suit is about more than color + fabric. also includes details.
if a person is more adventurous, then their garments should also reflect them. maybe they get a copper-colored mohair suit with a shawl collar for evening events. this requires the right person, lifestyle, and setting to pull off
in the above example, the shawl collar is a unique lapel style. the one-button closure also makes the suit more formal, adding to the elegance for evening activities. shawl collar + one button would be wrong on a business suit. you have to consider the details.
don't go into this trying to maximize the number of possible combinations like some combinatorics problem. think about what fits your lifestyle, use cases, setting, personality, etc. there is no easily distillable advice that fits into a tiktok. requires thought and consideration
reasonably, most ppl will feel this is too much to learn. but you don't need to learn all this stuff. find trusted clothiers and tailors who can advise you on which types of garments suit your needs. do not buy five cheap suits online bc of a steve harvey tiktok that went viral
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In the 1950s, Irving Penn traveled across London, Paris, and NYC to take portraits of workers in their work clothes. These clothes at the time were not considered glamorous — they would not have shown up on fashion runways — but they demonstrate a simple aesthetic principle 🧵
Consider these outfits. How do you feel about them? Are they charming? Repulsive? Stylish?
If you consider them charming and stylish, as I do, then ask yourself: what makes them charming and stylish? Why are you drawn to the outfits?
As I've mentioned before, I think outfits look better when they have "shape and drape." By shape, I mean the outfit confers a distinctive silhouette. If these men took off their clothes, we can reliably guess their bodies would not be shaped like this:
If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.