derek guy Profile picture
Jun 15, 2023 18 tweets 8 min read Read on X
I wrote earlier that this advice is bad and these outfits don't work. some ppl asked what would be my version. I don't think there's any easily distillable advice that works for everyone. your wardrobe should fit your lifestyle, environment, personality, etc 🧵
most men need a solid navy or grey wool suit for things such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, big meetings, religious services, etc. these events can come up unexpectedly, which is why if you don't have this type of suit, you should shop for one now. ImageImage
but after that, there's no second or third choice that works for everyone. a good choice takes into account your needs, lifestyle, climate, personality, etc. if you work in a corporate environment that requires suits, you should get at least four more dark business suits Image
if you live in an area where it gets very hot, either for part of the year or the entire year, get these in tropical wool, which is an open-weave wool that allows your skin to breathe. (this suit is brown. for business settings, you will need navy or grey). ImageImage
conversely, if you need something for cold weather, get something like woolen flannel

get these suits in a mix of colors (medium grey, dark grey, navy) and patterns (solid, semi-solid) so you have options while easily mixing and matching with shirts, shoes, ties, etc Image
however, very few men nowadays need multiple suits for business. so your second and third suit requires you to ask: "how will i be using this garment?" "where will i be wearing it?" "when will i be wearing it? spring/summer? fall/winter? afternoon or evening?"
if you want a suit you can wear during the daytime in the summer months for things such as brunch with mom, going to the city and shopping, or other fun, casual activities, then get a tan, brown, or cream suit in linen or cotton ImageImageImageImage
in the right cut and material, some of these linen or cotton suits can be broken into separates. which is to say, you can wear the suit jacket as a sport coat because it *convincingly passes* for a sport coat. doesn't just look like you're wearing an orphaned suit jacket Image
cotton and linen hold wrinkles easily. sometimes that doesn't suit the wearer's personality, and they want something shaper. so maybe they get a worsted wool suit in a non-business color. or something like this sage wool-silk blend ImageImage
want something casual for fall/winter? get a thornproof tweed or corduroy suit. the corduroy suit can also be broken into separate because, again, the jacket now convincingly passes for a sport coat. doesn't look like you just lost your suit pants and now wearing the jacket. ImageImage
choosing the right fabric also requires an appreciation for the time of day. in the afternoon, you can wear light colors such as tan. but in the evening, dark suits look better because they fit the mood ImageImage
if you are going out to a nice restaurant in the evening, consider mohair, which has a subtle sheen that glimmers under dim lights. also works well for nighttime parties and rooftop bars. again, it's about taking your environment and use into consideration. Image
a garment should also fit the person's personality. if a person is conservative in nature, then they should stick to conservative suits: brown wool for daytime; maybe navy mohair for evenings out. Image
notice how the details on the above garment are traditional: single-breasted, notch lapel, three-roll-two closure. such details add to the suit's semiotic meaning. they say "im shyy. im just a little fella." a suit is about more than color + fabric. also includes details.
if a person is more adventurous, then their garments should also reflect them. maybe they get a copper-colored mohair suit with a shawl collar for evening events. this requires the right person, lifestyle, and setting to pull off Image
in the above example, the shawl collar is a unique lapel style. the one-button closure also makes the suit more formal, adding to the elegance for evening activities. shawl collar + one button would be wrong on a business suit. you have to consider the details.
don't go into this trying to maximize the number of possible combinations like some combinatorics problem. think about what fits your lifestyle, use cases, setting, personality, etc. there is no easily distillable advice that fits into a tiktok. requires thought and consideration Image
reasonably, most ppl will feel this is too much to learn. but you don't need to learn all this stuff. find trusted clothiers and tailors who can advise you on which types of garments suit your needs. do not buy five cheap suits online bc of a steve harvey tiktok that went viral ImageImage

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More from @dieworkwear

Feb 5
It's true that Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney has a rounded back and forward pitched shoulders. But let me show you something. 🧵
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:

— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.

Why do Poilievre's jackets fit like this? Image
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Read 11 tweets
Jan 18
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.

In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.

On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Dec 18, 2025
A story I found about Haiti:

In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵 Image
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In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink. Image
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The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.

Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard. Image
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Read 5 tweets
Dec 1, 2025
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
First, who is Caroline Groves?

Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this. Image
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In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional." Image
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Read 18 tweets
Nov 29, 2025
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.

Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵 Image
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric Image
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Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor. Image
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Read 24 tweets
Nov 24, 2025
Here is a guide breaking down what goes into quality men's footwear. This is focused on men's shoes, as women's shoes, depending on the style, will have different construction techniques and thus standards. 🧵
First, let's set a standard. What does it mean for a pair of shoes to be "good quality?" In this thread, I define that standard to be two things:

— Do the shoes age well?
— Can they be easily repaired?

In short, you should want and be able to wear the shoes for a long time. Image
We'll start with the part most people see: the uppers.

Quality uppers are made from full grain leather, which shows the natural grain of the hide (pic 1). Low quality uppers will be made from corrected grain, where bad leather has been sanded and given a chemical coating (pic 2) Image
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Read 20 tweets

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