I wrote earlier that this advice is bad and these outfits don't work. some ppl asked what would be my version. I don't think there's any easily distillable advice that works for everyone. your wardrobe should fit your lifestyle, environment, personality, etc 🧵
most men need a solid navy or grey wool suit for things such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, big meetings, religious services, etc. these events can come up unexpectedly, which is why if you don't have this type of suit, you should shop for one now.
but after that, there's no second or third choice that works for everyone. a good choice takes into account your needs, lifestyle, climate, personality, etc. if you work in a corporate environment that requires suits, you should get at least four more dark business suits
if you live in an area where it gets very hot, either for part of the year or the entire year, get these in tropical wool, which is an open-weave wool that allows your skin to breathe. (this suit is brown. for business settings, you will need navy or grey).
conversely, if you need something for cold weather, get something like woolen flannel
get these suits in a mix of colors (medium grey, dark grey, navy) and patterns (solid, semi-solid) so you have options while easily mixing and matching with shirts, shoes, ties, etc
however, very few men nowadays need multiple suits for business. so your second and third suit requires you to ask: "how will i be using this garment?" "where will i be wearing it?" "when will i be wearing it? spring/summer? fall/winter? afternoon or evening?"
if you want a suit you can wear during the daytime in the summer months for things such as brunch with mom, going to the city and shopping, or other fun, casual activities, then get a tan, brown, or cream suit in linen or cotton
in the right cut and material, some of these linen or cotton suits can be broken into separates. which is to say, you can wear the suit jacket as a sport coat because it *convincingly passes* for a sport coat. doesn't just look like you're wearing an orphaned suit jacket
cotton and linen hold wrinkles easily. sometimes that doesn't suit the wearer's personality, and they want something shaper. so maybe they get a worsted wool suit in a non-business color. or something like this sage wool-silk blend
want something casual for fall/winter? get a thornproof tweed or corduroy suit. the corduroy suit can also be broken into separate because, again, the jacket now convincingly passes for a sport coat. doesn't look like you just lost your suit pants and now wearing the jacket.
choosing the right fabric also requires an appreciation for the time of day. in the afternoon, you can wear light colors such as tan. but in the evening, dark suits look better because they fit the mood
if you are going out to a nice restaurant in the evening, consider mohair, which has a subtle sheen that glimmers under dim lights. also works well for nighttime parties and rooftop bars. again, it's about taking your environment and use into consideration.
a garment should also fit the person's personality. if a person is conservative in nature, then they should stick to conservative suits: brown wool for daytime; maybe navy mohair for evenings out.
notice how the details on the above garment are traditional: single-breasted, notch lapel, three-roll-two closure. such details add to the suit's semiotic meaning. they say "im shyy. im just a little fella." a suit is about more than color + fabric. also includes details.
if a person is more adventurous, then their garments should also reflect them. maybe they get a copper-colored mohair suit with a shawl collar for evening events. this requires the right person, lifestyle, and setting to pull off
in the above example, the shawl collar is a unique lapel style. the one-button closure also makes the suit more formal, adding to the elegance for evening activities. shawl collar + one button would be wrong on a business suit. you have to consider the details.
don't go into this trying to maximize the number of possible combinations like some combinatorics problem. think about what fits your lifestyle, use cases, setting, personality, etc. there is no easily distillable advice that fits into a tiktok. requires thought and consideration
reasonably, most ppl will feel this is too much to learn. but you don't need to learn all this stuff. find trusted clothiers and tailors who can advise you on which types of garments suit your needs. do not buy five cheap suits online bc of a steve harvey tiktok that went viral
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
different versions of this audio keep going around, but none of the outfits work bc suit jackets can't always be worn as sport coats. pinstripe is distinctly a suit pattern. fine worsted grey wool is also only for suits. not everything can be broken up like this
generally don't like commenting on regular ppl's content, but it's concerning how many people are spending a lot of money bc of these viral videos. the language of suit versus sport coat fabrics is about more than color. it includes texture, sheen, pattern, etc
lots of guys in this thread debating whether this person looks better on the left or right, or why/how women wear make-up, but a lot of people who are into clothes and make-up are not doing so to attract a mate. ur not the audience. they do it for themselves and their peers
i find that a lot of ppl who don't have a strong interest in clothing or style can't wrap their head around the idea that some people are into such things outside of utilitarian purposes: finding love, getting a better job, getting better service, etc.
lots of guys who are into clothes as a hobby do all sorts of crazy things: wear weird clothes from rare Japanese brands, wear jeans for 6 months without washing, go to great lengths to get a detail right. no one is doing this so they can have sex. they do it to impress peers.
This received a lot of attention, so I will list a few more tailoring houses that do work for women. Note: most custom tailoring houses will make stuff for women, but these are some that I've seen do more work than others. Will include some thoughts at the end on custom tailoring
Sartoria Dalcuore makes very soft garments with little padding. When garments are made like this, they tend to sit a little closer to the body (in a classic way, not fashion industry slim). Good for a more "relaxed" look.
Edward Sexton is much more structured, which allows them to create sharp, angular lines. Sexton himself cut for Bianca Jagger, Twiggy, and Diana Ross. Today, the firm's head cutter is Nina, who came over from Gieves & Hawkes.
I've always believed you should dress the best you can while also letting others dress how they want. My friend Andy and his wife Michèle dress up every Friday to get dinner. By dress up, I mean formalwear (black tie for Andy). They don't care if patrons are dressed casually. 🧵
Every culture in the world has ideas about what constitutes decorum in public life. In some settings, such as weddings, there is such a thing as dressing respectfully, as you don't want to take anything away from the people getting married.
But in less formal settings—including restaurants that charge $30/entree—codes are more relaxed. And it gets dicey once you equate dress with what's in someone's heart.
I will relay a story a Christian friend once told me (I hope I get it right)
i know "life after college" discourse is old now, but im surprised at the negative reaction to that video. disappointment with adult life, suburban death, & modern ennui were big themes in post-war cultural criticism. also marx alienation of labor. these come up often on twitter
saying "he's middle class," "he gets off at 4:30" or "he just needs a romantic partner" would not have been considered reasonable counterpoints to such post-war criticism. the only real issue i have with the video is that such observations of modern life are a bit stale.
sorry, but one more thing. "he has agency and could make friends" touches on Putnam's Bowling Alone. It's hard to make friends nowadays! There is not much civic life; gone are the social clubs that were around in mid-cent America. Culture and institutions shape our lives!
I think I've been writing mainly for menswear-obsessed guys for so long that it had not occurred to me that high-rise trousers could still be controversial in 2023. So let's run through some points. 🧵
First, if you're wearing a tailored jacket (e.g., suit jacket or sport coat), you should wear high-rise trousers. Low-rise trousers create this ugly shirt triangle below the buttoning point. High-rise trousers create a more coherent, streamlined look between jacket and pants
Some people think that high-rise trousers look old-fashioned and out of date. First, I think you should dress for your body type, not according to trends. Low-rise jeans and trousers are best on stick-thin models, who they were created for.