Basic J. Crew style shorts in cotton. Pair with a t-shirt, a casual button-up worn open, and a lightweight jacket if the weather allows. Wear with penny loafers, camp mocs, or Sperry Cloud CVOs. Pretend you're in Call Me by Your Name
PATAGONIA BAGGIES
Made of quick-drying, lightweight nylon, these feel a bit more outdoorsy. Pair again with t-shirts and open chambray shirt. Techy jacket if the weather allows. Imagine you're in a 1970s California hippie climbing club.
CORDUROY SHORTS
OP corduroy shorts were a defining marker of California style. The new version is made by Birdwell Britches in Los Angeles. Think: 1970s Venice Beach with skaters and beach bums in corduroy shorts, striped T-shirts, and Vans slip-ons or Authentics.
RUGGED
Can be workwear shorts, cut-off fatigues, or something like Freenote Cloth's deck shorts. Pair with a t-shirt and lightweight military surplus jacket. Or channel "youth crew" styles that were popular in hardcore punk circles in the 1980s and 90s.
SPORTY
Can be sweat-shorts or running shorts teamed with a hoodie. Or outdoorsy shorts with an athletic pullover or rugby. Wear with retro-styled running shoes like New Balance 574, 1400, or 550; Nike Waffle Racer; or Spalwart Marathon Lows.
SLEAZY
Short shorts (no longer than 5" inseam). Pair with a sleeveless ribbed undershirt, mesh or lace shirt worn open, and a little gold chain (3mm, 22" 14k Franco or rope chain). Wear slip-ons like horsebit loafers. Channel the energy of a delicious Asian pear.
BOHEMIAN
Funky shorts like these from Karu Research (a cheaper version can be had through J. Crew's Wallace & Barnes). Pair with a Bode-styled shirt, guayabera, or most camp collar shirts. Wear with huaraches while listening to Yusef Lateef's Eastern Sounds.
WHEN IN DOUBT
1. Camp collar shirts work pretty well w shorts 2. Slip-on shoes also work well. Camp mocs, espadrilles, Vans slip-ons, loafers, etc. 3. In the spring or fall, you can wear them with long-sleeved T-shirts, sweatshirts, or merino knits 4. Keep it casual, not dressy
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.