Thread of pictures I took around parts of Damascus during the Syrian Civil War just before the fall of Assad. There were lots of obvious signs of dysfunction and tension - but lots of signs of normalcy too despite the ongoing war 🧵
The central Damascus bazaar, the Al-Hamidiyah Souq, tastefully festooned with Assad bunting. The souq is one of the ‘Great Bazaars’ of the Middle East, like Istanbul or Cairo. Always very busy during the day. Got told it was a ‘tourist trap’ even though Syria then had no tourists
A street just off the main souq. Again, Assad imagery displayed prominently. Bazaar full of hustle and bustle - merchants yell at you “for you my friend good price.” Some litter on floor but the Damascus litter situation was not egregiously bad. Far worse in other parts of Syria
I recently visited Luton - a working class town near London infamously home to both the Tate Brothers and Tommy Robinson and one of the towns in Britain most transformed by immigration - to see what it looks like today 🧵
Luton was one of the towns earliest effected by large scale immigration. It’s against this background that Robinson’s EDL first emerged, the working class living on the frontlines of a changing Britain. My TLDR impression of Luton is that this change has now largely happened
In some ways Luton might as well be another country. It’s easy to look at pictures of foreign-coded visuals in your own country and say, “oh it’s from a ghetto, China Town, Little India etc it’s always been like that.” Luton is like if these areas expanded over an entire city
Somalians have a reputation for being the most vicious of British Ethnic Gangs and will swarm or ‘Zerg Rush’ at very minor perceived insults. Here a London ‘Mali Gang’ has kidnapped a woman and made her read out an apology for the crime of… “making fun of Somalians on TikTok”
One of the most striking aspects of visiting Syria during the Civil War was just how prevalent Bashar Al-Assad imagery was. Assad’s face was everywhere - probably the most of any Leader of any country I have been to excepting perhaps North Korea. A little hard to have a sense of his ubiquitousness without having actually been there at the time but it very often felt like Bashar was staring down you from every visible surface. This is not a metaphor for the paranoia induced by Assad’s Secret Police (Mukhābarāt) by the way, which was another dimension to Assad’s Kingdom - I just mean the Assad imagery alone. A total assault, physically and psychologically - the man on the street constantly bombarded with images of Bashar Al-Assad. Assad, Assad, Assad, Assad, Assad - Assad’s picture everywhere
To be fair to Assad, though I can’t really speak to his personality beyond what I’ve seen and read and heard about him, he didn’t seem particularly vain by Dictator standards. At the time, Syria was still technically at war and there is a lot to be said for ‘memetically’ shoring up your own side with these kinds of propagandistic ‘signifiers’ provided the effort doesn’t become radicalising in itself because of its obnoxiousness (see eg British NHS rhetoric). Though of course propaganda doesn’t always need to aim to endear the viewer to its subject, implicit threat in its ubiquity too can also achieve ends even if it isn’t inherently as stable long term. In a sectarian developing country like Syria too, the kinds of demographics it has, the steely blue-A10-eyed Alawite imagery may not have necessarily needed to have any more nuance beyond ‘Look at me - I’m the big bossman’. I can’t say exactly what Assad was ‘going for’ but in all in that way probably ‘The Cult of Assad’ was more political expediency than vanity even if there was maybe perhaps some ego in it. A certain kind of detractor of these type of regimes likes to psychologise the ego component of these kinds of phenomena but for me in the setting of an ongoing Civil War that was one of the least interesting things about it
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Another dimension, with the extra context of all the internet memes about Assad especially it was difficult not to find the imagery sometimes funny. Not to trivialise the situation but it was almost as if Assad was smiling, grinning, laughing, waving down at you wherever you went. The images sometimes had a certain playfulness to them, Assad was very rarely completely stern-faced, it often seemed like he had a little knowing twinkle in his eye. Unsure if that was intentional, if Assad deliberately wanted to project an image of being a ‘fun chill guy’. Probably not. But if he did it did half-work and not in a hugely quirked-up self-parody way, a little more muted but still ‘fun’ - the world’s first ‘ironic’ dictator. The imagery didn’t feel entirely OTT serious like in say North Korea, Turkmenistan etc. Again not to trivialise it and you know, this is all my speaking as an outsider, but this was a recurring thought I kept having - difficult not to ‘notice’
What did the average Syrian think about Assad’s ubiquity? Did they ‘buy into the cult’? Of the real life Syrians in Assad-controlled areas I asked (ie. not internet Syrians who always have very outspoken opinions about it - some may appear below this post to tell me they only said what they said because of fear of the Secret Police, threaten me etc.) there was a full spectrum:
•“It’s fucking stupid”
•“I really hate it”
•“He’s just the President so he must put his picture everywhere”
•“I don’t like it but I support Assad”
•“It’s a bit much but it is a war”
•“I don’t really think about it”
•“It’s fine”
•“Yeah Assad is great, I like it”
•“It’s funny”
You are a Utopian Socialist in the immediate decades following the end of World War 2 in charge of revitalising poor Post Industrial towns like Rotherham in Northern England. How do you bring about the Socialist Utopia?
A) Modest Economic Development
B) Import lots of Pakistanis
Everybody wants ‘The Utopia’ but sometimes getting to ‘Basically Fine’ is a challenge enough
You could get most of the social policies you want if you didn’t insist on appending ‘+ Import half the Population of Mirpur District, Pakistan’ to those policy proposals. Just rein in the ideology a little, you know… compromise, settle. Nothing wrong with being Basically Fine
2024 was a big year in film. Sequels dominated but a new cultural turn explored reactionary themes. Here are The New York Times’ Best Movies of 2024: Movies that entertained and awed, but that also pushed boundaries and championed social justice causes 🧵
DIDN’T IRELAND USE TO BE A SHITHOLE?
Moving and thought provoking award-winning drama set in Old Ireland (1980’s). Cillian Murphy stars as an Irishman who must navigate the relentless awfulness that was Ireland - paedophile priests and no migrants. We learn how shit Ireland was
Robert Egger’s THE WHITEMAN
“A bloody revenge epic and a breathtaking visual marvel” - reactionary filmmaker Robert Egger returns with his most reactionary film yet. When an enigmatic figure known as ‘The Whiteman’ is wronged for being white he whiteishly sets out for vengeance