Start w/ a denim Western shirt. It can be worn with a tweed sport coat (a classic RL move) or rugged casualwear (e.g., leather jacket, trucker jacket, field coat). Blue denim is an easy choice, but the style also works well in Tencel, needlecord, or black denim.
If you are unsure of the style, check out Wrangler's light blue, stonewashed blue denim Western shirt (get the pure cotton version; the others aren't that great). It can be had for about $30. It's a low-cost style experiment. The shirt runs true to size.
HENLEY or RIBBED TANK
Normally not a henley guy, but a white henley layered under a Western shit looks quite good. Or you can use a ribbed sleeveless undershirt (e.g., Hanes). This can be a way to add a bit of "layering" in the summertime when it's too hot for outerwear.
OUTERWEAR
Almost any kind of rugged workwear-styled jacket will work with Westernwear: field coats, leather jackets, military surplus, etc. Rocky Mountain Featherbed also makes down jackets and vests with Western yokes. Has a 1970s Colorado ski instructor vibe
But if you're on a budget, the best pick is a vintage Lee 101J. Has a V-shaped silhouette that I think is cooler than the straight fit on a Levis Type III. It can be had for about $75 in a vintage shop (shop in person, as the fit is wonky). Suede truckers are also cool, but $$$
RRL SHAWL COLLAR CARDIGAN
They're insanely expensive, but if you can splurge on one, RRL's hand-knit shawl collar cardigans have no equal. They also do more affordable machine-knit cardigans (nice, but not as nice). Kanata & Canadian Sweater Company's Cowichans are also cool.
COWBOY BOOTS
These can "make" a fit. Check JB Hill, Lucchese, and Rios of Mercedes. Or Tecovas on a budget. Or vintage Acme on Etsy and eBay. Cowboy boots with tall heels are distinctive but only work with Westernwear. Try shorter, rounder ropers for more versatility.
WRANGLER WRANCHERS
$30 pants with a permanent center crease. Has a flared leg and a cool Westernwear vibe. Size up two in the waist; take regular inseam. Best in colors like taupe and black. Also looks good on women. Downside: they are pure polyester.
HEADWEAR
A cowboy hat can be bold. If you're shy, try a trucker cap. Kapital makes some very cool, but expensive ones. You can also shop for vintage trucker caps on Etsy (Velour in Portland just put up a bunch). An appropriately themed, non-trucker vintage cap can also be great.
NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY
One of this country's great craft traditions. Get the real deal (stuff made by Native Americans), not the knock-offs. Chipeta Trading Company and Len Wood's Indian Territory sell vintage; Self Edge sells new. Maida also has nice, unique designs.
WESTERN BELT
Something that literally & figuratively ties everything together. Try ranger belts, tooled belts, "Clint stitch" belts, and Western buckles. Belts with three- or four-piece silver sets. Or a Native American buckle (mine is from Navajo silversmith Anderson Parkett).
This can be a fun area of dress, and it's easy to incorporate if you already have some basic workwear pieces (e.g., slim-straight jeans, flannel shirts, work boots). Start with a denim Western shirt & go from there.
In 1881, Hans Wilsdorf was born in Bavaria, then part of Germany, to parents who died not long after he was born. At a young age, Wilsdorf set off into the world. He landed in England in 1903, which at the time had virtually no formal immigration controls.
Lucky for him. Two years later, fear of poor Eastern European Jews flooding the UK led to 1905 Aliens Act, which moved the country from an open-door policy to one of stricter control. This was the first British law that labeled certain migrants as "undesirable."
I can tell you who goes to cobblers. And a bit about the trade. 🧵
In the 18th century, men got shoes from two types of people. The upper classes went to cordwainers, who measured feet and made shoes from scratch. The lower working-classes went to cobblers, who cobbled together shoes using scraps from salvaged pre-owned footwear.
A cobbler was also someone who repaired footwear. Hence the Middle English term cobeler ("mender of shoes") deriving from an early form of cobble ("to mend roughly, patch"). In shoemaking, cordwainers and cobblers were considered distinct trades. Cobbler was lower on the ladder.
An offhand comment about how Prince Harry doesn't dress very well seems to have stirred up his fans. So here's a thread on how both Harry and William don't dress well when compared to the older men in their family — and how this represents a broader decline in taste. 🧵
I should say at the outset that I don't care about the drama surrounding the Royal family. I don't care if you're Team Markle or Team Middleton or Team whatever. I am simply talking about clothes. The following is also not meant to be personal jabs; just an honest review.
The first thing to understand is that select members of royal family were incredible dressers. Most notable is Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor. For a time, whatever he wore, others followed. He popularized cuffed trousers, belts, and a tailoring style known as the "drape cut."
When we zoom in on the wallet, we see the label "Saint Laurent Paris," a French luxury fashion house that became popular about ten years ago when Kanye started wearing the label. This was also when Hedi Slimane was at the company's creative helm.
For many young men at the time, Saint Laurent was their entry into designer fashion, partly because the designs were conceptually approachable (LA rocker, Hot Topic), while the Kanye co-sign made them cool and the prices signaled status (and for the uninformed, suggested quality)
When I was on a menswear forum, navy trousers were of great controversy. Discussions about them lasted many years, resulting in long-lasting rivalries. Sometimes people refrained from speaking about them out of fear of dredging up old debates.
First, I should state at the outset that there's no way to have this conversation without, in some way, speaking crudely about certain classes of people. I make no judgements about their worth or dignity. I am only describing the semiotics of men's dress.
Second, everything depends on your goals. Dress is not a science, so there are no overriding laws. Everything is contextual to culture. More on this later
Before we start, here are two outfits involving green sport coats. Which do you like better? Please choose before moving on.
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵
My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this.
I disagree with this perspective because they always seem to be about forcing the person into one narrow ideal. So if you're short, they tell you how to wear certain things to give the illusion of height. Or if you're heavy, they say how you can dress to hide your weight.