Start w/ a denim Western shirt. It can be worn with a tweed sport coat (a classic RL move) or rugged casualwear (e.g., leather jacket, trucker jacket, field coat). Blue denim is an easy choice, but the style also works well in Tencel, needlecord, or black denim.
If you are unsure of the style, check out Wrangler's light blue, stonewashed blue denim Western shirt (get the pure cotton version; the others aren't that great). It can be had for about $30. It's a low-cost style experiment. The shirt runs true to size.
HENLEY or RIBBED TANK
Normally not a henley guy, but a white henley layered under a Western shit looks quite good. Or you can use a ribbed sleeveless undershirt (e.g., Hanes). This can be a way to add a bit of "layering" in the summertime when it's too hot for outerwear.
OUTERWEAR
Almost any kind of rugged workwear-styled jacket will work with Westernwear: field coats, leather jackets, military surplus, etc. Rocky Mountain Featherbed also makes down jackets and vests with Western yokes. Has a 1970s Colorado ski instructor vibe
But if you're on a budget, the best pick is a vintage Lee 101J. Has a V-shaped silhouette that I think is cooler than the straight fit on a Levis Type III. It can be had for about $75 in a vintage shop (shop in person, as the fit is wonky). Suede truckers are also cool, but $$$
RRL SHAWL COLLAR CARDIGAN
They're insanely expensive, but if you can splurge on one, RRL's hand-knit shawl collar cardigans have no equal. They also do more affordable machine-knit cardigans (nice, but not as nice). Kanata & Canadian Sweater Company's Cowichans are also cool.
COWBOY BOOTS
These can "make" a fit. Check JB Hill, Lucchese, and Rios of Mercedes. Or Tecovas on a budget. Or vintage Acme on Etsy and eBay. Cowboy boots with tall heels are distinctive but only work with Westernwear. Try shorter, rounder ropers for more versatility.
WRANGLER WRANCHERS
$30 pants with a permanent center crease. Has a flared leg and a cool Westernwear vibe. Size up two in the waist; take regular inseam. Best in colors like taupe and black. Also looks good on women. Downside: they are pure polyester.
HEADWEAR
A cowboy hat can be bold. If you're shy, try a trucker cap. Kapital makes some very cool, but expensive ones. You can also shop for vintage trucker caps on Etsy (Velour in Portland just put up a bunch). An appropriately themed, non-trucker vintage cap can also be great.
NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY
One of this country's great craft traditions. Get the real deal (stuff made by Native Americans), not the knock-offs. Chipeta Trading Company and Len Wood's Indian Territory sell vintage; Self Edge sells new. Maida also has nice, unique designs.
WESTERN BELT
Something that literally & figuratively ties everything together. Try ranger belts, tooled belts, "Clint stitch" belts, and Western buckles. Belts with three- or four-piece silver sets. Or a Native American buckle (mine is from Navajo silversmith Anderson Parkett).
This can be a fun area of dress, and it's easy to incorporate if you already have some basic workwear pieces (e.g., slim-straight jeans, flannel shirts, work boots). Start with a denim Western shirt & go from there.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.