derek guy Profile picture
Jul 13, 2023 13 tweets 11 min read Read on X
THREAD ON WESTERNWEAR

Some ideas on how to make Westernwear look good 🧵 https://t.co/dqSyRL4vAg
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WESTERN SHIRT

Start w/ a denim Western shirt. It can be worn with a tweed sport coat (a classic RL move) or rugged casualwear (e.g., leather jacket, trucker jacket, field coat). Blue denim is an easy choice, but the style also works well in Tencel, needlecord, or black denim.


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If you are unsure of the style, check out Wrangler's light blue, stonewashed blue denim Western shirt (get the pure cotton version; the others aren't that great). It can be had for about $30. It's a low-cost style experiment. The shirt runs true to size.
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HENLEY or RIBBED TANK

Normally not a henley guy, but a white henley layered under a Western shit looks quite good. Or you can use a ribbed sleeveless undershirt (e.g., Hanes). This can be a way to add a bit of "layering" in the summertime when it's too hot for outerwear.
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OUTERWEAR

Almost any kind of rugged workwear-styled jacket will work with Westernwear: field coats, leather jackets, military surplus, etc. Rocky Mountain Featherbed also makes down jackets and vests with Western yokes. Has a 1970s Colorado ski instructor vibe


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But if you're on a budget, the best pick is a vintage Lee 101J. Has a V-shaped silhouette that I think is cooler than the straight fit on a Levis Type III. It can be had for about $75 in a vintage shop (shop in person, as the fit is wonky). Suede truckers are also cool, but $$$


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RRL SHAWL COLLAR CARDIGAN

They're insanely expensive, but if you can splurge on one, RRL's hand-knit shawl collar cardigans have no equal. They also do more affordable machine-knit cardigans (nice, but not as nice). Kanata & Canadian Sweater Company's Cowichans are also cool.


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COWBOY BOOTS

These can "make" a fit. Check JB Hill, Lucchese, and Rios of Mercedes. Or Tecovas on a budget. Or vintage Acme on Etsy and eBay. Cowboy boots with tall heels are distinctive but only work with Westernwear. Try shorter, rounder ropers for more versatility.


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WRANGLER WRANCHERS

$30 pants with a permanent center crease. Has a flared leg and a cool Westernwear vibe. Size up two in the waist; take regular inseam. Best in colors like taupe and black. Also looks good on women. Downside: they are pure polyester.


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HEADWEAR

A cowboy hat can be bold. If you're shy, try a trucker cap. Kapital makes some very cool, but expensive ones. You can also shop for vintage trucker caps on Etsy (Velour in Portland just put up a bunch). An appropriately themed, non-trucker vintage cap can also be great.


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NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY

One of this country's great craft traditions. Get the real deal (stuff made by Native Americans), not the knock-offs. Chipeta Trading Company and Len Wood's Indian Territory sell vintage; Self Edge sells new. Maida also has nice, unique designs.


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WESTERN BELT

Something that literally & figuratively ties everything together. Try ranger belts, tooled belts, "Clint stitch" belts, and Western buckles. Belts with three- or four-piece silver sets. Or a Native American buckle (mine is from Navajo silversmith Anderson Parkett).


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This can be a fun area of dress, and it's easy to incorporate if you already have some basic workwear pieces (e.g., slim-straight jeans, flannel shirts, work boots). Start with a denim Western shirt & go from there.

Some more ideas (with a soundtrack!):

dieworkwear.com/2021/07/13/a-s…

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More from @dieworkwear

Aug 5
I disagree. I will tell you what's wrong with his jeans. 🧵
Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.

Which do you think looks better? Image
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If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better?

The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole. Image
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Read 10 tweets
Aug 3
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.

Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.

IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.

Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
Read 5 tweets
Aug 2
I've had enough.

In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.

This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵 Image
I should state two things at the outset.

First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide. Image
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Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste. Image
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Read 23 tweets
Jul 31
Sometimes I think about the closure of G. Lorenzi, a Milanese gentleman's shop that had been around for almost 100 years until their closure in 2014. The shop was special because it carried so many one-of-a-kind items from artisans — total handmade craft production, not factory. Image
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At the time of their closure, they still carried over 20,000 items of 3,000 models, including speciality knives, picnic sets, and nutcrackers. They had over 100 styles of nail clippers and 300 different hairbrushes alone. Proprietor Aldo Lorenzi scoured the world for artisans. Image
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There's nothing wrong with factory production. But as more of our lives get taken over by machines — including art and writing — this sort of production feels special.

Trailer for "A Knife Life," a documentary about the store by my friend Gianluca Migliarotti, available on Vimeo
Read 4 tweets
Jul 30
I spent 15 yrs on a menswear forum. The longest argument I had was over a tiny detail that can be seen in this photo. For 6 months, I argued with the same five guys non-stop every day. The argument got so heated the forum owner banned one guy for life.

Here is the detail. 🧵
As I've mentioned before, there's a lot of coded language in menswear. Navy suits can be worn with black oxfords because this was the uniform of London businessmen. Brown tweeds go with brogues because these clothes were worn in the country. In this way, we get formal vs. casual. Image
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The same is true for shoes. Tiny details come together to communicate something, much like how words form a sentence. Black is more formal than brown; calfskin more formal than suede or pebble grain; plain design is more formal than broguing. All of this stems from history. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 27
How are Trump's economic policies impacting you?

Let me give you a hard example. 🧵 Image
The year is 2024 and you're browsing for a new shirt online. You come across a store selling shirts from Portuguese Flannel. You do your research and find they make quality garments: clean single-needle stitching, flat felled seams, quality fabrics, MOP buttons, classic designs Image
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So you go ahead and purchase one. The shop charges 139 Euros and throws in free shipping. Given the exchange rate in 2024, that means you paid $163.19.

It arrives and fits well. You are happy. Image
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Read 13 tweets

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