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derek guy Profile picture
@dieworkwear
Jul 23 • 9 tweets • 4 min read Twitter logo Read on Twitter
People often answer this with "dress timeless," but I don't think that's really the answer. A lot of guys bought tweed sport coats and oxford shoes 15 years ago and are now in totally different clothes because those styles were ultimately not them. 🧵
When i think of "timeless" style, I don't think of one specific style. Lots of ppl have dressed the same for decades—Rick Owens, Daiki Suzuki, Bruce Boyer, Doug Bihlmaier, etc. All of these guys have very different styles, but they've found what works for them.


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IMO, it's easier to arrive at this if:

1. You think of clothing as a cultural language. Think of what you're trying to say with your clothes. Don't just combine random stuff together.

2. Figure out what works for your lifestyle, personality, etc. Requires some soul searching
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3. Shop slowly. Don't jump into this and expect to build a "forever wardrobe" right off the bat. Allow yourself to slowly discover your taste.

4. Aim for "emotional durability." Find things that you'll be excited to wear 10 years from now. A post:

dieworkwear.com/2020/08/01/on-…
5. Have a strong enough sense of personal style that you can ignore trends. You should be able to still wear a sneaker or suit or silhouette even if it's no longer "cool." @theprophetpizza has a great post on this at GQ.

gq.com/story/sustaina…
6. I hate the idea of prescriptive wardrobes and "wardrobe essentials." IMO, you have to develop an eye and sense what works for you, which is going to take a lot of trial and error and self-discovery. But it also helps to have a starting place.
Long ago, I wrote a post about something I called a "springboard wardrobe." The idea is to give you a baseline to figure out your own taste so you don't have to constantly reinvent the wheel every time your taste takes an unexpected turn.

putthison.com/the-springboar…
Some guys go through this process and end up wearing weird Kapital outfits. Some stay very classic. I think you just have to find what works for you. Just enjoy the process.

Finally, a post on how to develop good taste:

dieworkwear.com/2022/08/26/how…
One more thing: I think it's fashionable now to say there's no such thing as timelessness. While that's true, it also seems pedantic, and there are better and worse ways to shop. Many speed through trends; others find what works for them. There's something great about the second. Image

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy Profile picture
Jul 19
This is a good thread. I just want to clarify something. People often mistake my love for classic tailored clothing as a belief that either everyone should dress this way or that this is the only legitimate aesthetic. This puts things into a false dichotomy. 🧵
As my Twitter account has grown, I've leaned more into classic tailoring bc this is something everyone understands. But my interest spans everything from niche Japanese workwear to Lemaire to techwear and some avant-garde. I've written about these aesthetics on my site


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A way to get around this false dichotomy between "principles" and "laws" is to not think of dress as kind of science, like physics, or even pure artistic expression. Instead, think of it as cultural language.

Read 15 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Jul 18
This is a great question, and I will tell you 🧵
There have been two big trends in men's tailoring in the last twenty years

1. A slimming and shortening of the silhouette (e.g., Hedi Slimane and Thom Browne)

2. Softer construction (i.e., less material inside, such as padding and canvassing)
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When you put on a very slim, deconstructed coat, the garment will sit very close to you. Without any structure inside, there will be nothing holding up the jacket except your body. So things like the shoulder seam will sit on your shoulder bone. This can look great on models Image
Read 7 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Jul 17
Getting a lot of questions regarding my criticism of Daniel Craig's clothes. Common questions: "How can you dress if you're muscular?" "Should no one wear skinny suits?" "What about a more modern silhouette?" Let's talk about some of these points. 🧵 Image
Craig often wears clothes that are too tight for his body. This causes the buttoning point to strain across his waist, the lapels to buckle away from the chest, and the coat's collar to lift off his neck. Image
His right sleeve is often two inches too short. I suspect this is because his bicep is too tight and he is right-handed. When he waves or shakes people's hands, his tight sleeve is prone to riding up on him, leaving him with too much shirt cuff. Happens often at press events.


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Read 10 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Jul 17
King of Spain at the final day of Wimbledon. This looks great.

Very rare to see this level of tailoring nowadays, even on the wealthy. So let's talk about some of the reasons why it's great. 🧵 Image
King Felipe consistently looks great, and it seems that all of his suits are cut by the same tailor.

Some basic points:

1. Collar always hugs the neck
2. No pulling anywhere. Things hang cleanly
3. Lapels end about halfway from collar to shoulder bone (nice proportion)
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His coat here also ends about halfway from the collar to the floor, which is again a very classic and flattering proportion. His sleeves hang very cleanly. His trousers are well-proportioned for his coat. Image
Read 19 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Jul 16
There was a small dispute in my comments over how one can dress to a business causal office (FWIW, in the photo shown, i would swap the tan sport coat for navy and tuck in collar if i were going to an office). But it reminded me of a social experiment done in the late 1990s 🧵 Image
In the late 90s, three psychologists recruited undergrad students for a study. They told everyone in the group, except for one, to show up to a certain room at a certain time for an experiment. Unbeknownst to the singled-out student, that person was giving the "wrong" location. Image
When the singled-out student arrived at this "wrong" location, someone there told them that the location had been moved at the last minute and they had to hurry to the right classroom. But before they go, they had to put on this T-shirt with Barry Manilow's face on it. Image
Read 18 tweets
derek guy Profile picture
Jul 15
there has been a growing trend to wear dark worsteds suits (navy or grey suits made from a fine, smooth dressy wool) with a dress shirt and no tie. and it looks so bad. 🧵
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everyone who does this thinks they look like george clooney or tom ford. or they're cool and relatable and just a casual sort of dude. they project neither of those things. they just look like every downtown schlub who hates wearing a suit but bitterly does so bc they have to.
the thing is that there are many types of suits. if you want to dress down the suit, make it look intentional. choose a casual suit in a non-business color (e.g., brown, olive) and material (e.g., cotton, linen).


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Read 9 tweets

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