Going to list some resources for where to get menswear "deals," loosely defined. This is going to span a range of prices, so please don't jump down my throat if something doesn't fit your particular budget or aesthetic. Take what's helpful. 🧵
UNIQLO
Great for basics. Relatively "classic" designs that slot well into different types of wardrobes. Reasonably well made. For a low-priced brand, they get a reasonably good score on ethics from the site Good On You. I like the Uniqlo U line, which is designed by Lemaire.
SPIER & MACKAY
The best source I know for affordable tailored clothing. Half-canvassed construction, moderate proportions. Fits a lot of guys. They also sell all the things you need to wear with a tailored jacket: dress shirts, trousers, etc
IGs mohammedalnazal, menswearmusings
MARRKT
This is not really "affordable." But they sell heavily discounted clothes from coveted brands (often workwear), such as Nigel Cabourn, Visvim, Engineered Garments, Orslow, etc. I bought a Drake's Balmacaan coat (~$2k) here once for like $400.
LUXESWAP
Another great source for second-hand, high-end menswear. This eBay consignor helps menswear enthusiasts clear out their closets. As such, they often have great stuff. Check eBay name balearic1 & search for the term "#1 Menswear"
Basic, reasonably well-made clothing. I like their wovens (e.g., flannel shirts) better than knits. Good if you like places like J. Crew and Todd Snyder. If you shop here, take advantage of their 20% coupon on first-time orders and the "Common Club" points system.
MEERMIN
Goodyear welted shoes made from full-grain leather. Prices are about $195. IMO, the best value for leather shoes. They can be a little stiff, so prepare for a short break-in period (walk around the neighborhood before taking them out all day).
BOSIE
They're not cheap, but they're cozy, well-made, and a good deal at £108 (which is about $136). These Scottish-made Shetland sweaters go well with a wide range of wardrobes. Just know that Shetland wool is a little itchy, so you'll want to wear this over a collared shirt.
GOOD EVERYDAY BRANDS
Don't forget the classic everyday brands: Levi’s, LL Bean, Lands’ End, Camber, Clarks, Timberland, Converse, Vans, Hanes, Wrangler, Lee, Blundstone, and Carhartt, to name a few. Wrangler denim shirts are $30; Carhart double knees are $60.
DUE DILIGENCE
When shopping at the lower end of the price spectrum, you may be giving up some of the services that a higher-priced store can provide. As such, you have to do your own research. Compare garment measurements to your best-fitting clothes. Check return policies, etc.
In the 1950s, Irving Penn traveled across London, Paris, and NYC to take portraits of workers in their work clothes. These clothes at the time were not considered glamorous — they would not have shown up on fashion runways — but they demonstrate a simple aesthetic principle 🧵
Consider these outfits. How do you feel about them? Are they charming? Repulsive? Stylish?
If you consider them charming and stylish, as I do, then ask yourself: what makes them charming and stylish? Why are you drawn to the outfits?
As I've mentioned before, I think outfits look better when they have "shape and drape." By shape, I mean the outfit confers a distinctive silhouette. If these men took off their clothes, we can reliably guess their bodies would not be shaped like this:
If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.