Going to list some resources for where to get menswear "deals," loosely defined. This is going to span a range of prices, so please don't jump down my throat if something doesn't fit your particular budget or aesthetic. Take what's helpful. 🧵
UNIQLO
Great for basics. Relatively "classic" designs that slot well into different types of wardrobes. Reasonably well made. For a low-priced brand, they get a reasonably good score on ethics from the site Good On You. I like the Uniqlo U line, which is designed by Lemaire.
SPIER & MACKAY
The best source I know for affordable tailored clothing. Half-canvassed construction, moderate proportions. Fits a lot of guys. They also sell all the things you need to wear with a tailored jacket: dress shirts, trousers, etc
IGs mohammedalnazal, menswearmusings
MARRKT
This is not really "affordable." But they sell heavily discounted clothes from coveted brands (often workwear), such as Nigel Cabourn, Visvim, Engineered Garments, Orslow, etc. I bought a Drake's Balmacaan coat (~$2k) here once for like $400.
LUXESWAP
Another great source for second-hand, high-end menswear. This eBay consignor helps menswear enthusiasts clear out their closets. As such, they often have great stuff. Check eBay name balearic1 & search for the term "#1 Menswear"
Basic, reasonably well-made clothing. I like their wovens (e.g., flannel shirts) better than knits. Good if you like places like J. Crew and Todd Snyder. If you shop here, take advantage of their 20% coupon on first-time orders and the "Common Club" points system.
MEERMIN
Goodyear welted shoes made from full-grain leather. Prices are about $195. IMO, the best value for leather shoes. They can be a little stiff, so prepare for a short break-in period (walk around the neighborhood before taking them out all day).
BOSIE
They're not cheap, but they're cozy, well-made, and a good deal at £108 (which is about $136). These Scottish-made Shetland sweaters go well with a wide range of wardrobes. Just know that Shetland wool is a little itchy, so you'll want to wear this over a collared shirt.
GOOD EVERYDAY BRANDS
Don't forget the classic everyday brands: Levi’s, LL Bean, Lands’ End, Camber, Clarks, Timberland, Converse, Vans, Hanes, Wrangler, Lee, Blundstone, and Carhartt, to name a few. Wrangler denim shirts are $30; Carhart double knees are $60.
DUE DILIGENCE
When shopping at the lower end of the price spectrum, you may be giving up some of the services that a higher-priced store can provide. As such, you have to do your own research. Compare garment measurements to your best-fitting clothes. Check return policies, etc.
I have always felt that dressing well is about knowledge, not money. Tristan claims this suit costs $20k. That seems high to me, as a Savile Row suit typically costs ~$5k. But perhaps he went to the most expensive tailoring firm and choose the most expensive fabric. 🧵
My following comments are not a slight on his tailors, as they may be very skilled. But just a comment on the suit, which is a collaboration between the tailor and the client. Despite costing $20k, it doesn't fit very well.
First thing is the divot in the sleevehead. When guys see this, they often think it's because their shoulders are too big, so they size down. In fact, the case is often the opposite.
Here we see Gary Cooper wearing very exended shoulders. Yet, no divot!
one of the things i love about bespoke tailoring is seeing how tailors solve technical fit issues. when you see stuff like this, it helps you spot issues in ready-to-wear
from the IG account dylanandson, a bespoke tailoring shop in singapore. they're great at making trousers.
as a customer, i think the main things to look for are:
1. clean drape all around, even in the back and around the seat (see how tan linen pants here are collapsing a little, where others are straight)
2. if your trousers have a center crease, the crease should fall in the center of your shoe, both the front and back. if the crease twists inward or outward, the cut is not right for you.
Since Edward Sexton's death last week, I've been reflecting a lot on his work. I doubt another tailor will leave as strong and distinct an impression on men's tailoring in my lifetime. For those unaware of him, I thought I'd share a bit about his story. 🧵
To understand Sexton, you have to know what Savile Row was like before the 1960s. This was a fairly conservative quarter. To become a client of the big houses, you had to be recommended. Firms shied away from press and had frosted glass windows to protect privacy of clients.
Sexton grew up in Elephant and Castle, a working-class neighborhood that gave him his Cockney accent. For his first job, he worked as a waiter at the Waldorf hotel, where he learned some people were enjoying nicer things than him. This was where he fell in love with bespoke suits
I will suggest something impractical and expensive, but couch it in a bit of cool menswear history, so this thread gains traction but ultimately proves to be useless for most people. Like most of my threads. 🧵
My suggestion is for a polo coat, which is a heavy, warm overcoat that polo players used to wear in the early 20th century. This coat was worn between chukkers (or "chukkas"), which is a period of play in a polo match.
Many of the original polo coats didn't have buttons. They were simply wrap-style coats with a belt tied around the waist. Remember that these were simply worn to keep the player warm between matches. The idea was that you could just throw one on.
People often answer this with "dress timeless," but I don't think that's really the answer. A lot of guys bought tweed sport coats and oxford shoes 15 years ago and are now in totally different clothes because those styles were ultimately not them. 🧵
When i think of "timeless" style, I don't think of one specific style. Lots of ppl have dressed the same for decades—Rick Owens, Daiki Suzuki, Bruce Boyer, Doug Bihlmaier, etc. All of these guys have very different styles, but they've found what works for them.
IMO, it's easier to arrive at this if:
1. You think of clothing as a cultural language. Think of what you're trying to say with your clothes. Don't just combine random stuff together.
2. Figure out what works for your lifestyle, personality, etc. Requires some soul searching