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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Aug 17, 2023 • 25 tweets • 16 min read • Read on X

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https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1691744425909875021

WHERE TO BUY HIGH-QUALITY SHOES

Here's the follow-up to yesterday's thread on how to spot quality men's footwear. This thread is about where to buy such footwear. 🧵

https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1691744425909875021

If you know a little something about how shoes are made, and you have some experience with high-quality footwear, you can spot quality shoes in a store. However, for most people, this can be challenging. Quality often reveals itself over time, as bad shoes fall apart.

For instance, a mark of good quality is how the leather ages over time. Good leather develops a patina; bad leather is more prone to cracking, flaking, and just general ugliness. When shoes are ugly, you end up throwing them away after a few years and buying something new.

When shoes age well, and have been made in a way so they're easy to resole, you end up keeping them for a very long time. Here are King Charles' decades-old oxfords. Notice how the uppers have been patched, and the soles have been replaced. Many ppl keep such shoes for 15+ yrs.

Some shoes are also made with special techniques that lend certain qualities. These Crockett & Jones Snowdon boots have been made with a Veldtschoen construction and waxed leather uppers. They are so waterproof, a friend uses them as his fishing boots. He even wades in them!

For most people, the problem is that they won't know how shoes will age until they've owned them for a long time. Price and designer name are no guarantee of quality. In fact, designer brands typically use things like corrected-grain leather, rather than full-grain.

So in this guide, I'll list some companies that produce shoes according to 2 qualities: full-grain leather uppers and some sort of stitched-on sole. This means the uppers will age well, and you can resole the shoes more easily, rather than throwing them away when soles wear down.

ALLEN EDMONDS

Classic American brand with many stores across the US, which makes them easier to try on. However, since Caleres acquired them in 2016, some of the designs have become iffy. Stick to the classics, like the Park Avenues, Strand, and Grayson.

https://t.co/j39sgXTHYZallenedmonds.com

GRANT STONE

A relatively new brand producing quality, Goodyear welted shoes in styles that take after American brands. Designs feel a bit like Alden, but they're available at a more affordable price point.

https://t.co/XkdaeWUCezgrantstoneshoes.com

LOF & TUNG

An in-house brand made by one of the best high-end footwear stores in the world. Shoes are Goodyear welted, made in Spain, and tastefully designed. The people at this shop are very good at giving sizing advice over the Internet.

https://t.co/gYcTTuAxpUskoaktiebolaget.com/collections/lo…

QUODDY AND RANCOURT

Both of these companies produce classic made-in-Maine moccasins using full-grain leather and handsewn aprons. They have camp mocs, penny loafers, boat shoes, and some boots. Shoes pair well with Americana

https://t.co/rrbAfDOPHY https://t.co/CmflVFXfDNquoddy.com
rancourtandcompany.com

JAY BUTLER

Summer loafers made with a Blake-stitch construction, rather than Goodyear welt. That means they're less waterproof, but they're lighter and more flexible. They have horsebits and beefroll penny loafers that are better made than Bass Weejuns

https://t.co/WUvLUSDGBRjaybutler.com

MEERMIN

One of the best sources for ~$200 shoes, partly because they have such a huge catalog full of tasteful designs. Run by a family with decades of experience in the footwear industry. Downside: the soles are a bit stiff at first, so break in slowly

https://t.co/EH6tbQlkA7meermin.com

CARMINA

The brands above range from $200-300. We now get into slightly more expensive shoes, ranging from $300-500. Like Meermin, Carmina has a huge catalog of tasteful designs. Their horsebits are just as well-made as Gucci's, but cost half the price.

https://t.co/MmfDIipBYhcarminashoemaker.com/en

MORJAS

Classic shoes aimed at a slightly younger crowd. They have things like oxfords, but also unlined penny loafers (softer, more comfy), hiking boots, and on-trend spectator slip-ons. Goodyear welt means these are better made than most "fashion" shoes

https://t.co/LRMPV4Yr9Zmorjas.com

BLACKSTOCK & WEBER

Made for the "post sneaker" crowd, these chunky loafers look less dressy than their fine dress shoe counterparts. Like Morjas, Blackstock & Weber is one of the few companies combining a younger aesthetic with traditional quality.

https://t.co/GUBN3er0VSblackstockandweber.com

TLB MALLORCA

If you want sleeker, more streamlined designs, TLB Mallorca is one of the best values. These are Goodyear welted shoes made with channel stitching, which means a thin piece of leather covers the sole, hiding the stitching. Also curved waist

https://t.co/egZpL206Uxtlbmallorca.com

TRUMAN BOOTS

For guys who are into workwear. These boots are easier to break in than Red Wing, more affordable than Viberg, and more stylish than Chippewa. Made in Oregon, these are the sort of things you wear with raw denim and heavy flannel shirts.

https://t.co/bvpldk5d9ktrumanboot.com

LOAKE 1880

For friends in Europe, Loake is one of the better "entry-level" brands for this class of footwear. Goodyear welted, full-grain leather, classic designs, and made in Northamptonshire. Stick to their higher-tier 1880 range.

https://t.co/EDDtxLFUDBloake.com/collection/188…

VASS

The only company on this list that sells handwelted shoes. Handwelting is more durable than Goodyear welting bc it doesn't have gemming, a canvas rib that can break down. This means you can resole them more often.

https://t.co/F7zlxiZXnavass-shoes.com

ALDEN

I won't spend too much time on shoes that cost over $500, but Alden is worth a mention bc their designs ae so classic and the shoes well-made. Their Indy boot, Leisure Handsewn, tassel loafer, and unlined chukkas are all worth a look. Made in USA

https://t.co/lQ7G7jB58haldenshoe.com

CROCKETT & JONES

The other big, $500+ brand worth mentioning. Very tasteful British-made shoes. Huge catalog with everything from rugged waterproof boots to fine dress shoes. A wide range of lasts means most guys can find something here that fits them.

https://t.co/OGUYurKTuPus.crockettandjones.com

WILL'S VEGAN STORE

Vegan shoes won't age like the shoes above. They're typically made from PU leather and have glued-on soles. However, I want to give an option for vegan friends. Will's designs are better than most.

https://t.co/y74XiTIjaRwills-vegan-store.com

BEST PRACTICES

If possible, buy at least two pairs of shoes and rotate through them. This gives each pair a day to dry (sweat from your feet can break down the leather). Also, insert shoe trees when they're not being worn. Treat them with leather conditioner when they feel dry.

https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1670555618678284289

Finally, learn how shoes should fit and figure out your actual shoe size. This is not always your sneaker size, as sneakers are soft and cushy. The thread below covers some of this in detail.

Buy less, buy better, etc.

https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1670555618678284289

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy

@dieworkwear

May 11

https://twitter.com/rickpunchman/status/2053939462183305520

I think "fun socks" should be used judiciously, as a lot of what's worn today feels more childish than whimsical. IMO, most men should avoid them entirely.

But if you insist on wearing them, here are some suggestions on how to make them look less bad. 🧵

https://twitter.com/rickpunchman/status/2053939462183305520

Any time this topic comes up, people invariably bring up George HW Bush, who was known to wear fun socks later in life. While I wasn't a fan of those socks, I agree that Bush was well-dressed. I also think when you reach a certain age, you have license to wear whatever you want

There are a few reasons why most outfits look bad with these sorts of socks. First, most men are not at that senior age where these socks become charming.

Second, most of these socks look like something you acquire by sending in a proof-of-purchase from a cereal box.

Read 17 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

May 1

https://twitter.com/JoyceCarolOates/status/2050267906924064788

I respectfully disagree. This sort of outfit can be beautiful, but it has to be done well.

IMO, the problem with Vance's outfit — along with many others — is that the work has been influenced by fashion designers, rather than tailors.

Let me show you. 🧵

https://twitter.com/JoyceCarolOates/status/2050267906924064788

Most people think of black tie as the most formal kind of menswear, but technically speaking, it's semi-formal evening attire. Historically, men wore this kind of outfit to dinner or evening shows, such as going to the opera or ballet. Or celebrations such as NYE parties.

White tie is true formalwear. It differs from black tie primarily in how it requires a long tailcoat (black tie originated when men cut the tails off their coats to create a more casual garment for dinner). Also requires a white waistcoat, white tie, and wing collar.

Read 17 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 30

If you're interested in bespoke tailoring and based in the United States, I have some trunk show announcements to share with you. Since Twitter recently changed their formatting options, I will be doing this as a thread. 🧵

Matthew Gonzalez

There's a long history of cross-border influence and immigration in tailoring, but as far as I know, Matthew Gonzalez is the first American to operate under his own banner on Savile Row. Born and raised in Southern California, he moved to London about twenty years ago to pursue a degree in bespoke tailoring from the London College of Fashion. Thereafter, he climbed the ranks — moving from undercutter at Thom Sweeney to cutter at Dunhill and eventually Huntsman, where he achieved his longtime goal of cutting on Savile Row.

Today, he runs his own firm, where he merges his California sensibility with his training in British bespoke craftsmanship. He recently told me he admires a photo of JFK staring out of a window. The President dressed in a dark worsted suit, white button-up shirt, and dark silk necktie, but everything about the photo looks very casual and relaxed. This, he told me, is what American style means to him.

Gonzalez cuts suits and sport coats inspired by that mid-century American tailoring, although he's adamant about not wanting the clothes to look like historical costumes. Thus, while the jackets have a soft, natural shoulder line, he sticks with front darts and prefers side vents (rather than the dartless front and hook vent characteristic of Ivy Style). The lapels have a moderate width and minimal belly (the curve sometimes distinguishing an older style of British tailoring). The garments are designed so they can be teamed with a dress shirt and tie, or something more casual such as a chambray button-up.

Given Gonzalez's penchant for slightly more relaxed, casual attire, it's no surprise that he also offers made-to-measure suede jackets, wool-cashmere shawl collar cardigans, and denim Western shirts (made without the contrast stitching, so they look more at home with tailoring). He's also one of the few bespoke tailors I've met who "gets it" when it comes to the polo coat, arguably the most iconic of American overcoat styles. Gonzalez tells me he thinks a polo coat should have letter box patch pockets, a half belt, gauntlet cuffs, an inverted back pleat, and a center button vent. But crucially, he also thinks the split-sleeves should be made with a lapped seam. To my eye, this makes the garment more casual and sporty—truer to its original roots—and allows the tailor to shape the sleevehead.

Consider Gonzalez if you share the same sensibilities: a love for classic American tailoring, but a suspicion of styles that are too anachronistic, and a bias towards clothes that feel more relaxed and casual. The point about Gonzalez using a split-sleeve with a lapped seam demonstrates that he takes care of details that may not occur to a client, but will be appreciated years down the road.

Taillour

In bespoke tailoring, there's a generally accepted rule that most clients would do well to observe: choose a company based on their house style and stay close to it. The term "house style" refers to the tailor's established methods, which combine to create clothes with a distinguishable fit and feel. Just as you wouldn't order burritos from a ramen chef, you shouldn't ask an English tailor for an Italian jacket (or vice versa).

Taillour is one of the few exceptions. Co-founder and head cutter Fred Nieddu has worked in the bespoke tailoring industry for decades, cutting for firms such as Thom Sweeney and even teaching pattern drafting courses at the London College of Fashion. A good percentage of his current workload involves making clothes for films and TV shows. In fact, you may have seen his creations. He made all the menswear for the Netflix series The Crown, the suits in the film The Phoenician Scheme, and one of the colorful costumes for Wonka. Given this experience, he's more flexible than most tailors regarding what he's willing and able to make.

Still, I think it's always a good idea to stay close to the house style. I think of Taillour's house style as very soft but architectural in its lines. Nieddu uses a full body canvas and only a bit of laptair near the wearer's collar bone to prevent the jacket from sinking. The shoulders are minimally padded, giving the garments a very light feel. While Neapolitan tailors are known for a similar construction, Taillour's jackets have a bit more room and shape. The shoulder line is very straight, and the chest is slightly full. When combined with those characteristically straight lapels and larger jacket collar, I find Taillour's jackets have an angular appearance reminiscent of Apparel Arts drawings.

Consider Nieddu if you want a tailor who's a bit more flexible in terms of what they're willing to make (although, again, I recommend tweaking at the margins, not bringing in a photo of something and asking for it to be copied). He has also made clothes for women, which will be useful if you're looking for someone who can make a women's suit, sport coat, or overcoat.

Read 4 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 25

Summer is around the corner and soon you'll read a bunch of tweets about how every man should have a pair of loafers.

I don't think anyone needs anything, but if you're shopping for a pair, let me show you how to think about loafers. This applies to any wardrobe item. 🧵

When it comes to choosing loafers, a simple answer will go something like this: "Such-and-such brand makes the best pairs." Or "Here's a hierarchy of loafers." IMO, such approaches are reductive and often devolve into trend or status pursuits.

Let me show you another approach.

As always, it's helpful to start at the beginning.

There are a few origin stories for loafers, but most lead back to Norway. If menswear lore is to be believed, then the penny loafer comes from a simple slip-on shoe known as the teser, which was once worn by Norwegian peasants.

Read 25 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 15

Someone asked if I could tell them where to buy a pair of good chinos. In this thread, I will tell you, but my answer is not simple. On the upside, I think this is a better approach when shopping for clothes and you can apply it to any kind of item. 🧵

A simple answer will go something like this: "Such-and-such makes the highest quality chinos." Or "this brand provides the best value." While potentially useful in some respects, I don't think this gives you the fullest picture.

Instead, let's start at the beginning.

During the 1898 Spanish-American War, US troops stationed in the Philippines wore sand-colored pants made from a heavy cotton twill woven in China. Since the Philippines had been under Spanish colonial rule at this time, the locals call these "pantalones chinos" (Chinese pants).

Read 23 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 4

One day, "It" will happen, by which I mean sudden and unexpected news that you want to celebrate. In such cases, you will want the right outfit. 🧵

What do I mean by "It?" I mean that joyous moments are not always something you can plan for. Perhaps you received a pay raise or got accepted at a waitlisted school. Perhaps a loved one is now cancer-free. Such moments can be sudden and unexpected — and you want to be prepared.

Of course, you can always celebrate in the same clothes you wear to bed. But IMO, this diminishes the moment. Thus, it's nice to special outfits for "It," even if you don't wear them all the time. It's similar to toasting a special glass of champagne and drinking water.

Read 14 tweets

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