in my time writing about menswear, I've seen so many times where someone tried to save money in process of building a wardrobe but ended up spending more. this includes
1. bought stuff just bc it's on sale 2. bought something cheaper instead of what they actually wanted
🧵
3. tried to find the original factory that made something, so they could find a better deal (e.g., white labeling). they assumed everything that comes out of a factory is the same (which is not true) 4. settled for a bad garment bc it was cheap
5. bought from stores that provide very little service. it's often good to shop from stores with skilled sales associates who can help you. and stores that take returns. buying from cheap retailers abroad or online sellers with no return policy is risky.
IMO, the better ways to save money:
1. build a larger fashion vocabulary, so you're not constantly trying to buy some affordable version of a Loro Piana lookbook. appreciate affordable aesthetics like workwear.
2. appreciate the inherent goodness in certain cheap items. they are not "compromises" to higher-end items. some cheap items are just good. examples: vintage fatigues & trucker jackets, Timberlands boots, Vans slip-ons, Carhartt double-knees, Dickies painter pants
3. buy less, buy better. if you limit yourself to one nice jacket a year, you will feel less bad about spending more money on that single item. 4. buy stuff that will allow you to recoup some of your money. some items are easier to resell down the road
5. shop slowly. let your taste in clothes naturally evolve, so you don't end up with a stack of things you rarely wear bc your taste has moved on. 6. know the sale schedule. shop during mid- and end-of-season sales. but make sure you can still return items that don't work out
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
Whenever I post a link to a suit or sport coat, many people respond in shock bc of the price. Let's break down why tailored clothing costs so much money. 🧵
For this, I'm going to assume that the suit was made in the United States, largely because I'm relying on information given to me by a friend who works at a high level in the US suit manufacturing industry. These are simplified numbers but are generally reflective of reality.
The first thing to understand is that suits and sport coats are not made like casualwear. They are built up from many layers of haircloth, canvassing, and padding, which are carefully sewn together using either specialized machines or human hands (needle and thread)
seems like some people are unaware of how lightweight and breathable a tailored jacket can be. no garment—not even a t-shirt—is going to turn a 90F day into a 60F day. but many people seem to believe that tailored jackets are inherently warm when they are not. 🧵
tailored jackets and trousers can be made from tropical wools, which is a class of wool fabric made with a very open weave. these fabrics are opaque next to the skin, but they wear like a mesh screen. they allow body heat to escape and every breeze to blow through.
you can also remove the lining. there are fully lined jackets (pic 1), half-lined jackets (pic 2), quarter lined jackets (pic 3), and fully unlined jackets (pic 4).
If you know a little something about how shoes are made, and you have some experience with high-quality footwear, you can spot quality shoes in a store. However, for most people, this can be challenging. Quality often reveals itself over time, as bad shoes fall apart.
For instance, a mark of good quality is how the leather ages over time. Good leather develops a patina; bad leather is more prone to cracking, flaking, and just general ugliness. When shoes are ugly, you end up throwing them away after a few years and buying something new.
One of these shoes costs $150. The other costs $1,285.
Can you tell which is which? 🧵
In 2018, the discount shoe retailer Payless bet that most people couldn't. They pulled off an elaborate prank, where they started a luxury shoe brand called Palessi (designed by a made-up Italian designer named Bruno Palessi).
Then they set up a store in an upscale mall, stocked the shelves with regular Payless shoes, and invited fashion influencers for a launch party. No surprise, the influencers fell for it, some buying $35 shoes for $645, swooning about the quality of this fake luxury brand.
wealthy men in the past wore dressing gowns or robes at home, often with a belt tied around the waist, sometimes decorated with a little tassel at the end. made from wool or silk, these would be worn before getting dressed for the day. would be paired with thin-soled slippers
there were also robes for laying by the pool or going to the beach.
a few years ago, i had a robe made by one of my tailors using a run of Adamley silk. i wanted hand-knotted tassels at the end of the belt (most tassels now are machine-made). Budd in London had a small box of handmade tassels left—the last woman to make them had just retired
First, knitwear should always be folded, never hung, bc the garment can stretch out.
Storage tip: During the off-season, store sweaters in rigid Tupperware bins. Slip a cotton sheet or pillowcase over the top, then snap the lid down. This keeps out bugs that eat wool fibers.
Second, if you're hanging casualwear (e.g., button-up shirts, casual jackets), then you can use any old hanger. Although I prefer wooden hangers over thin wire ones, such as the ones you get from your dry cleaner. Ikea sells packs of 8 for about $9.