I don't know anything about architecture, but I know a little about clothing, and I can say this is not true in menswear. Our idea of what constitutes "classy" in clothing is mostly shaped by the social practices and tastes of the ruling class. It's not timeless, but rather sociologically dependent.
For instance, the suit is relatively stable, partly because it derives its traditions from the stability of the British upper-class lifestyles. This is a world of mostly men’s activities, such as hunting, horse riding, a love for country homes and their comforts, London business meetings, military duty, and elite schooling.
But before the suit became ascendant around the late 19th/ early 20th century—rising with the upwardly mobile class that came through industrial capitalism—the "classy" uniform was the frock coat. British men in high positions, such as finance and law, wore the frock coat (pic 1). Men who occupied the lower rungs of the social and professional ladder—such as clerks and administrators—wore the fustian lounge suit (pic 2).
IMO, one should not take taste as some kind of objective construct, but rather as a sociological idea.
What is more plausible? That the elite class just happened to have stumbled upon the magical formula for a classy outfit—a dark suit with a white shirt and dark tie (pic 3)—or that we read such things as "classy" because they are associated with the ruling class? And that some other combination–a dark suit with a black dress shirt and dark tie (pic 4)—connotes something less classy because other people did not figure out this combination? Or that we think of this as less classy because it's the taste of the "lower classes?"
another example that comes to mind is jazz music. once considered "the devil's music" and now considered to be "classy music." those early jazz tunes did not change; only the audience.
@ianjhurst @RJdeMans @localabamon I should add that I am able to know these things because of my naturally superior brain and higher education (I learned the history of black slaves in the United States in 7th grade)
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any time someone on here talks about how it's super cheap to produce clothes and the fashion industry is all inflated markups, i think about this insightful Sole Review article on how much it costs to run a sneaker business
any article like this will necessarily have to be very stylized in its modeling bc it can't reasonably capture every single nuance and brand. but it more accurately reflects the contours of the clothing industry than twitter chatter
Permanent Style also had a useful breakdown some years ago on how much it costs to make a $6k bespoke suit on Savile Row. This does not include the cost of running a business (or travel for traveling tailors). Production cost alone is 33% of price.
Whenever I post a link to a suit or sport coat, many people respond in shock bc of the price. Let's break down why tailored clothing costs so much money. 🧵
For this, I'm going to assume that the suit was made in the United States, largely because I'm relying on information given to me by a friend who works at a high level in the US suit manufacturing industry. These are simplified numbers but are generally reflective of reality.
The first thing to understand is that suits and sport coats are not made like casualwear. They are built up from many layers of haircloth, canvassing, and padding, which are carefully sewn together using either specialized machines or human hands (needle and thread)
in my time writing about menswear, I've seen so many times where someone tried to save money in process of building a wardrobe but ended up spending more. this includes
1. bought stuff just bc it's on sale 2. bought something cheaper instead of what they actually wanted
🧵
3. tried to find the original factory that made something, so they could find a better deal (e.g., white labeling). they assumed everything that comes out of a factory is the same (which is not true) 4. settled for a bad garment bc it was cheap
5. bought from stores that provide very little service. it's often good to shop from stores with skilled sales associates who can help you. and stores that take returns. buying from cheap retailers abroad or online sellers with no return policy is risky.
seems like some people are unaware of how lightweight and breathable a tailored jacket can be. no garment—not even a t-shirt—is going to turn a 90F day into a 60F day. but many people seem to believe that tailored jackets are inherently warm when they are not. 🧵
tailored jackets and trousers can be made from tropical wools, which is a class of wool fabric made with a very open weave. these fabrics are opaque next to the skin, but they wear like a mesh screen. they allow body heat to escape and every breeze to blow through.
you can also remove the lining. there are fully lined jackets (pic 1), half-lined jackets (pic 2), quarter lined jackets (pic 3), and fully unlined jackets (pic 4).
If you know a little something about how shoes are made, and you have some experience with high-quality footwear, you can spot quality shoes in a store. However, for most people, this can be challenging. Quality often reveals itself over time, as bad shoes fall apart.
For instance, a mark of good quality is how the leather ages over time. Good leather develops a patina; bad leather is more prone to cracking, flaking, and just general ugliness. When shoes are ugly, you end up throwing them away after a few years and buying something new.