one way to help curb the excesses of fast fashion is to encourage ppl to value the patina and wear-and-tear that good clothes develop. that way, they: 1) buy less, buy better; 2) buy vintage; 3) wear things. examples
1. King Charles' patched-up suit (see hem)
2. King Charles' patched-up shoes
3. Vintage Lee 101-J trucker jacket with a repaired collar (collar has been repaired by hand with a bit of oxford cloth). Vintage denim garments are also great in that they're softer and often have natural fades (rather than pre-distressed fades that don't always look very convincing)
4. Old sweatshirts (easy to find vintage; just search eBay and Etsy for vintage Russell Athletic). Looks great with old jeans and boots
the NYT had an article about this earlier this year about how old beat-up Birkins are a bigger status symbol than new Birkins. this is a very old concept—people who signal generational wealth are considered "higher status" than nouveau riche
the idea of aping the signals of the upper-most class seems kind of crass, but ... whatever gets you there is fine IMO. valuing quality things as they age is good. the wear-and-tear becomes part of the item's beauty, like the Japanese concept of kintsugi
repair them. you can
1. darn old jeans 2. use invisible mending on knits and wovens 3. patch up holes 4. there are services for all these things. but if you can't afford them, you can easily do some of them yourself
When you buy ready-made tailoring, the pockets and vents are often tacked down with stitching—usually white, but not always. This stitching, known as basting, is done so that the garment moves from the factory to your closet while holding its shape.
Before wearing the garment, you'll want to remove this stitching. Especially if there's a label on the sleeve. This label is only there so that people working in the distribution and sales process can easily identify the garment. It's not meant to be worn.
Rumors are going around that Pete Hegseth might be on his way out. I don’t know if that’s true, but just in case, I want to do a thread on his style. To me, Hegseth’s wardrobe reflects a common pitfall guys fall into when they first start caring about clothes. 🧵
When men start dressing with more intention, they often fall into the trap of cranking every knob to 11—volume, gain, treble, bass. The thinking is: more = better. But like in music, maxing out every setting doesn’t lead to clarity—it leads to noise.
We see this in how Hegseth dresses. His belt buckle is USA. Pocket square is USA. Socks are USA. Open up his jacket and what do you see? USA.
Someone asked me why there aren't any high-end Chinese clothing brands. They are many! In this thread, I'll name a few, as well as answer the question why you may not have heard of them. 🧵
This thread will cover a wide range of aesthetics and business sizes, so that there's something for everyone. The first is Zhu Chongyun, a chic womenswear label that combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with contemporary design.
Their ad campaigns are highly stylized for marketing purposes, but when you look at their runway presentations, you can see how their clothes are very wearable. A bit minimalist in tone and sculptural in terms of silhouette. Very refined and chic.
I try to live by the rule that what may be obvious to one person may not be obvious to another, as people are getting into hobbies at different points. So for those who are just starting to build a better wardrobe, here's how to shop for clothes online. 🧵
Go to your closet and pull out your best fitting clothes—best button-up shirt, best sweater, best pair of tailored trousers, and best pair of jeans. Lay these flat on a hard surface and measure them with a flexible measuring tape (available online or local craft stores)
For button-up shirts and sweaters, you'll want to take four basic measurements:
— Chest: measure across the front from armpit to armpit. Make sure shirt is buttoned
— Shoulder: measure across the back from shoulder joint to shoulder joint. Use the shoulder seam to guide you.
Not true. There are skilled craftspeople of every ethnic background (also hucksters who pose as real craftsman, but are not). Here are some artisans of Vietnamese and Filipino heritage. 🧵
I'll start with one I named in an earlier thread. Bellanie Salcedo is a Vietnamese-American and one-half of Chester Mox, based in the US. She trained for years under a former Hermès artisan, learning the skill of saddle stitching. Everything she makes is completely handmade.
Over the last 15 years, I've gotten all sorts of things from her: folios, belts, coat wallets, and card cases. The stitching is fine and precise; the edge finishing is immaculate. She sources leather from Hermès-owned tanneries. I think her work is world-class.
The thing about the Chinese fashion manufacturing TikTok discourse is that people haven't seen what it takes to build a reputable business. Look at what independent craftspeople go through: years of training, selling to discerning buyers, building a reputation, and expansion. 🧵
This has nothing to do with French vs Asian hands. In my thread, I highlighted many Asian makers. But I've also seen fraudsters (of every ethnic background). People who start up companies, sell shoddy products to uneducated buyers, and then disappear.
What does it take to get someone to fork $1k over the internet for a bag? Hopefully more than a punchy TikTok video! Ideally you read about the craftsmanship from informed buyers, see close up images of the workmanship, and understand how something was made.