AMERICAN MEDICAL STUDENT IN HAITI DESCRIBES WORKING WITH HAITIANS - A Thread 🧵
A Short Thread sharing the Infamous Blog Post of a Medical Student’s Experience in Haiti about ‘How Haitians Think’ 🇭🇹
It has proven hard for me to appreciate exactly how confused the Haitians are about some things. Gail, our program director, explained that she has a lot of trouble with her Haitian office staff because they don't understand the concept of sorting numerically. Not just "they don't want to do it" or "it never occurred to them", but after months and months of attempted explanation they don't understand that sorting alphabetically or numerically is even a thing. Not only has this messed up her office work, but it makes dealing with the Haitian bureaucracy - harrowing at the best of times - positively unbearable.
Gail told the story of the time she asked a city office for some paperwork regarding Doctors Without Borders. The local official took out a drawer full of paperwork and looked through every single paper individually to see if it was the one she wanted. Then he started looking for the next drawer. After five hours, the official finally said that the paper wasn't in his office.
Part of it is Haitian education. Even if you're one of the lucky ones who can afford to go to school, your first problem is that the schools can't afford paper: one of our hosts told stories of Haitian high schoolers who were at the level of Western 5th graders because they kept forgetting everything: they couldn't afford the paper to take notes on!
The other problem is more systemic: schools teach everything by uninspired lecture even when it's completely inappropriate: a worker at our camp took a "computer skills" course where no one ever touched a computer: it was just a teacher standing in front of the class saying "And then you would click the word FILE on top of the screen, and then you'd scroll down to where it said SAVE, and then you'd type in a name for the file..." and so obviously people come out of the class with no clue how to use an actual computer. There's the money issue - they couldn't afford a computer for every student - and a cultural issue where actually going to school is considered nothing more than an annoying and ritualistic intermediate step between having enough money to go to school and getting a cushy job that requires education.
There are some doctors and nurses, who are just as bad - though none at our compound, which is run by this great charity that seems to be really on top of things. We heard horror stories of people graduating from nursing school without even knowing how to take a blood pressure - a nurse who used to work at the clinic would just make her blood pressure readings up, and give completely nonsensical numbers like "2/19". That's another thing. Haitians have a culture of tending not to admit they're wrong, so when cornered this nurse absolutely insisted that the blood pressure had been 2/19 and made a big fuss out of it. There are supposed to be doctors who are not much better, although as I mentioned our doctors are great.
But I was going to talk about the patients. I don't really blame the patients. I think they're reacting as best they can to the perceived inadequacies around nurses and doctors. But they seem to have this insane mindset, exactly the opposite of that prevailing in parts of the States, where medicine is good. In particular, getting more medicine of any type is always a good thing and will make them healthier, and doctors are these strange heartless people who will prevent them from taking a stomach medication just because maybe they don't have a stomach problem at this exact moment. As a result, they lie like heck. I didn't realize exactly how much they were lying until I heard the story, now a legend at our clinic, of the man who came in complaining of vaginal discharge. He had heard some woman come in complaining of vaginal discharge and get lots of medication for it, so he figured he should try his luck with the same. And this wasn't an isolated incident, either. Complaints will go in "fads", so that if a guy comes in complaining of ear pain and gets lots of medicine, on his way out he'll mention it to the other patients in line and they'll all mention ear pain too - or so the translators and veteran staff have told me.
I haven't gotten any men with vaginal discharges yet, but many (most) of the patients I've seen have just complained of pains in every part of their body and seen if any of them stick. A typical consultation will be a guy who comes in complaining of fever, coughing, sneezing, belly pain, body pain, stomach pain, and headache. The temperature comes back normal (not that our thermometers are any good), abdominal, ear, and throat exams reveal nothing, and we send them away with vitamins and tylenol or maybe ibuprofen.
My cousin Samantha and my friend Charlotte, both of whom have come with us, have studied medical anthropology and think this is fascinating. I am maybe a little fascinated by it, but after the intellectual clarity of medical school, where every case has textbook symptoms that lead inevitably towards some clever but retrospectively obvious diagnosis, I'm mostly just annoyed.
Also, if I ask a question of the form "do you have X", people almost always answer yes. "Are you coughing?" "Yes." "Are you coughing up sputum?" "Yes." "Is the sputum green?" Yes." "Is the sputum coalescing into little sputum people who dance the polka on your handkerchief?" "Yes".
A depressing number of our patients have split into two categories: patients with such minor self-limiting illnesses that there's not much we can do for them, and patients with such massive inevitably fatal illnesses that there's not much we can do with them. There are a few who slip in between: some asthma patients, hypertensives, diabetics, people with UTIs and other bacterial infections, a man with serous fluid in his knee that my father drained for him - but they're depressingly few. And even when we can help them by, say, giving an asthmatic a month's worth of asthma medication, it's worrying to think about what happens when the month is up. Coming back to our clinic requires traveling on awful Haitian roads and waiting in line in the awful Haitian weather with two hundred other people and then hoping there's even a doctor who will see you, so I don't know how many people return for refills or what the effect of having to do so on quality of life must be.
To be honest I think a lot of what we're giving are placebos. And placebos have their uses, but here I think we have lost the comparative advantage to our competitors, the witch doctors, who can placebo the heck out of us. One of our translators' grandfathers is a voodoo priest, and he was describing some of the stuff he did. It sounded pretty impressive, although at least no chickens get harmed during any of our treatments.
But we have certainly helped a few diabetics, people with bacterial infections, and the like; and we're connecting a lot of kids with vitamins (not to mention stickers), so I do think we're doing a bit of good. My father loves working in Haiti and has made best friends with all the translators and is always going out into Port-au-Prince to see the sights and taste the social life. I think it's great for my education, great for my resume, and great to be helping people, but I will breath such a sigh of relief when I get back on that plane to the States.
Rio is such an attractive city because it has an undeniable energy. A host of factors conspire to suck that energy away though (the poverty, the crime etc) - and while they half-succeed they have not quite yet fully succeeded
Thread 🧵
Going to complain a lot in this thread but want to preface the complaining by saying I really enjoy spending time in Rio. I love it, Zona Sul (Leblon, Ipanema, Copacabana, Leme) especially - I don’t think there is a more magical stretch of city on the planet, it’s a Final Fantasy location
Okay, Rio has many many problems but aesthetically, culturally - in the Atlanticist so-called sense ie Girl From Ipanema Bossa Nova mid century effortless cool Chico Buarque bodybuilders on Copacobana women with big boobs playing beach volleyball capirinhas in Leblon ‘Nietzschean Lusotropicalism’ - it is a very special place
Easy somewhere like Brazil to live in a bubble despite the obvious problems the place has. It’s possible with a modest amount of money (especially if your income is foreign) to almost totally avoid the country’s third world aspects barring maybe the occasional homeless person you have to sidestep on the street
Have said this before but third world living can be very easy if you’re relatively rich by local standards. Actually had been melting into that bubble for a while, a few months… was having a really nice time. You might drive past some favelas in an uber occasionally but once you do that a few times you sort of ‘get over’ their favela-ness and it doesn’t faze you so much. Or it becomes background noise at least, you forget you are in the ‘third world’
One day I thought I would get intercity bus because the flight between cities would cost an extra $350 (since there are few low cost airline carriers travel between cities in Brazil via air is disproportionately expensive. See also eg Canada here). Also don’t mind long road journies - trip would supposedly take about 11 hours, not the end of the world, Brazilian buses aren’t terrible, nice to rest and gaze out the window…
Sat down by window seat. Suddenly a large family of indigenous-looking people gets on. I’m not sure exact indigenous group they were… Guarani, Tupi… could have been Bolivian even… All very stout, very pre-Columbian features. Maybe you’ve seen that meme image of mexicans where all the mexicans look like Shrek and Fiona (ogre form), you know rotund bodies and jeans and hair fades and gold chains - kind of like this
They’d bought up several rows of tickets for themselves including in rows with single passangers. First thing they did when they went to sit down was set up a circular encampment all turning inwards to face each other, immediately beginning to talk loudly among themselves in a large ring formation around the aisle that took up a third of the length of the bus. This entire area became ‘their space’, a whole comunidade established; kids would run up and down and it squealing, food and luggage and bedding was passed along it
They would eat obnoxiously stinky food constantly too. All kinds of packages being ripped open; the smell of milho frito em óleo de sarjeta, capybara coxinhas etc perpetually wafting into your face. Tinny music played over phone speakers, voicenotes recorded in shouting tones, babies wailing and not being disciplined… constant chatter for most of the trip
Was remarkable how unfazed they were by the concept of the bus being a kind of shared space, you could have been at a village quinceañera for all intents and purposes. Yeah we’re on a public bus with all these strangers it’s reunião de família time. Was surprised they didn’t bring a goat on board… look I’m being a bit crass here I don’t want to be too crass but you try not noticing this when it’s happening right next to you on long bus journey
Real nightmare ride in all, was close to losing it for a while before I did my breathing exercises. Okay obviously I know these behaviours exist, they’re very common, have written about this many times before this is just what certain kinds of people ‘are like’ but as I said thing for me was I got lulled into a false sense of security despite knowing all this, having experienced it many times. Had nice lifestyle for a few months - it makes you drop your guard. Forgot this could happen, almost would have paid the extra money to avoid it all it was that unpleasant. Because you are not in contact with ‘it’ you forget ‘what things are like’, the hate does genuinely leave your body, you feel yourself getting more liberal again as experience of ‘what people are capable of’ fades in your mind. But then place yourself in an environment like that and it comes rushing back and you think “oh yeah”. Don’t want to draw too many comparisons to people’s priors vis-a-vis their political preferences here ofc…
Here’s some audio of wailing noises on the bus. Just variants on this for hours on end
Isn’t that London is now a hellhole, actually it is very nice in many parts - is more that it is undergoing a process of (avoidable) ‘enshittification’ where quality of life on certain metrics gets slowly worse over time. So easy to tolerate but things are still worse than before
London in the summer, wow. And maybe even you man clapping some naija or argentinian or punjabi ting you don’t even mind the real big change you’re having too much fun and who can blame you! But fact remains many QoL metrics degrading even if people often too hysterical about it!
Orban loss leaves Czech Republic model of right wing populism the most sustainable populist model in Visegrad. You may not like it but this is what sustainable Euro-populism looks like
Bus stations are probably best place in Africa to experience ‘African Time’ - or at least the version of it where there is a sort of endless waiting for something to happen. What is important here is that in Africa many buses won’t leave until they are completely full. If you ask a bus driver “what time is the bus due to leave?” the answer will be “when it is full” and often in a confused tone as if the question was conceptually difficult to understand. So a lot of the time when you go to take a longer distance bus you have to go off vague hearsay that “it normally leaves about 6am”. Then you have to go to the ‘bus station’ - usually less a bus station more a busy dirt yard with a few Coca Cola vendors and corrugated shacks - a bit before that alleged departure time and sit down on the bus and wait the hour or two for it to fill. Reason you don’t go later when it is probably more full is that even though 80% of the time it fills up slowly the other 20% of the time it fills up quickly and then it leaves and then you miss the only bus of the day. Very time consuming way to travel, wastes a lot of time
Wanted to travel by bus with friend between two cities in Malawi once so went to the dirt yard where the buses were. There was one bushvan bus heading to where we wanted to go but it was mostly empty excepted two people. Just had to suck it up because that’s how buses in Africa work. Go and sit down - an hour passed, two hours, three. No AC and hot sun sat in the dirty shantytown station. Bus was filling up at a rate of about three people an hour. After eight or so people had gotten on the original two people who had been sitting inside the bus since the beginning suddenly just got up and left. An African woman said they worked for the bus drivers pretending to be customers so that when customers were deciding whether to invest several hours to sit and wait for a bus to fill up they could look inside and see their bus was ‘already’ half full. Then when the fake passengers did get up and leave the real customers would have wasted so much time in the bus already that, sunk cost, it would be better just to wait a little longer instead of leaving and investing the time in finding another. A uniquely African kind of scam
Wasn’t even as simple as the bus seats being full here either. As soon as the main seats were occupied the driver started putting down stools and trying to cram extra customers onto the bench seats. He wouldn’t leave until the bus was completely full. Told the driver that we would pay him the cost of a couple of extra seats if he left without waiting for the bus to fill up completely since it was taking so fucking long. He seemed enthusiastic about the prospect of taking more money but the concept of leaving without a full bus seemed to confuse him - as in he genuinely did not understand what we were asking. Unsure what he thought we were going to pay him for but the promise “we will pay for extra seats so we don’t have to wait until the bus is full until you leave, you can just leave” and “being able to leave without every seat full” was like trying to square a circle in his mind
As it turned out we spent so long explaining the concept of ‘leaving without a full bus but you make the same amount of money’ to him that more customers entered during the time it took and it ended up being redundant. Of course he was still expecting the money so we had to explain why we weren’t going to pay him anymore. But he didn’t understand that concept immediately either and it ended up being even more of a waste of time just to convey the point
Had been waiting in the bus for five hours at this point and were almost about to leave but there was still one more problem. A lot of African bus syndicates had touts who officially were supposed to roam around the ‘bus station’ so-called and try to convince customers to get in their bus. If they did this successfully they would receive a commission for all the people they brought aboard
Whenever we looked out the window while we were waiting the touts would all be sat on plastic chairs, smoking and playing cards together on a plastic table. Nobody was trying to find customers, they could not care less. Commented on what the fucking point of them was to each other multiple times and joked about doing the tout job ourselves since it would probably be quicker
When the bus did eventually fill up there was another delay when the driver went over to the touts and told them they weren’t going to get any commission since they didn’t bring anybody aboard. Immediately angry shouting, then a physical fight broke out between the driver and one of the larger, more aggressive touts. Huge crowd materialised out of nowhere to watch, a bit of staring milling as a large circle of people suddenly formed around them. They wrestled for about a minute before some other Malawians broke the fight up. Then about another half hour more of shouting before the driver, visibly in an angry huff, climbed into the van and finally started the ignition
With America’s hispanicised future now increasingly ‘locked-in’ it’s possible that even if the US does continue with a space programme that that space exploration might also become increasingly hispanicised too. Not impossible the moon bases of 2076 look something like this