my fall style opinion is that every guy looks great in a snap-button Western shirt. can be:
1. worn on its own 2. worn with a sport coat 3. worn with rugged outerwear like leather jackets or trucker jackets 4. depending on the material and cut, can be layered as a shirt jacket
Some options:
1. Wrangler: The cheapest on this list at about $30. Upsides? Made from sturdy denim, long enough to comfortably tuck, and comes with some cred, as Wrangler is a classic Westernwear label. The downside? The Interior is finished with messy overlock stitches. Stick to the stonewashed denim version. Most of the other fabrics suck.
2. Bryceland's: Available at Standard & Strange in the US, this is made from a heavier raw denim fabric, which means you put in the fades. The resulting fades will look more natural and authentic. Made for guys who love that rugged mid-century workwear look and want stuff built from the toughest materials.
3. @ProperCloth: This online made-to-measure shirtmaker is unique in that they're one of the only custom shirtmakers that offers a wide range of casual fabrics. Their washed denim shirts are put through a special enzyme wash, which gives the fabric that comfortable, broken-in feel and puckered seams (like you get in RTW). But being MTM means that you get a more customized fit. Free remakes on the first order allow you to home-in on the fit. Great for guys who like a more tailored look, esp to pair with casual suits and sport coats.
4. Wythe: This Texan-born designer moved to NYC some years ago to work for Ralph Lauren. His relatively new and independent label fuses his Texan heritage with an appreciation for NYC fashion. The Western shirts here use vintage-inspired off-white pearl snaps and feature a feather pleat on the rear yoke. They also do these in tons of different fabrics every season: moleskin, Tencel, and heavy flannels.
Special mention: @TaylorStitch. Better made that Wrangler; less expensive than the other three options above. This sits at that "good value for money" tier that's rapidly disappearing from menswear. Sign up for their email list to get 20% off your first order.
More options:
1. Rockmount Ranch Wear: Their online presentation is not the best, but that's true of many heritage companies. But if you want authenticity, Rockmount literally invented the pearl-snap shirt in the 1940s. These fit slim and are still made in the USA. Surprisingly "low priced" at $110 (given the specs).
2. Iron Heart: Available at @selfedge, these are not shirts. I mean, you can wear them like a shirt, but they're so thick, they practically function as jackets. Not the kind of thing you can tuck, but insanely warm. Tripled brushed on the interior for a kitten-soft feel, these are so densely woven that they block wind. Can be worn under looser workwear jackets, such as a Lee 101-J. Or they can be worn as shirt jackets, as seen here.
3. Kapital: My personal favorite. This funky Japanese label often incorporates really wild details into their clothes. They make a ton of different versions of their Western shirt every season. I prefer the basic one seen here (ideally in a raw fabric). I mainly like it because of the slanted chest pockets, which angle upwards towards the shoulder joints. If you can't find a US retailer, contact Cotton Sheep in San Francisco. They can put in a special import order.
4. Tony Shirtmakers: Once based in NYC, Tony moved to Maine a while ago, but still makes RTW and custom shirts. I love his unique designs, some of which you can see on his Instagram (IG tonyshirtmakers). For example, this one has beautifully shaped flap pockets. It can be made with any detail or fabric you want. Contact him for custom orders.
Special mention: If you're in NYC, stop by CEGO Custom Shirtmakers. They're a bespoke shirtmaker in the city that does great work. Carl there has an in-house team, which gives him full control over the production process (better than most custom shirtmakers, who are simply sending your measurements to one of the few remaining shirtmaking factories dotted around the country). CEGO can make anything, including Western shirts. They often do stuff for film, theatre, and TV productions.
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
bring your trousers to your local alterations tailor. wear the shoes you plan to mostly wear with the pants and ask for either a single break (pic 1) or no break (pic 2). break refers to the indent formed when the trousers "break" over the shoes. hemming should cost about $25 🧵
a single or full break is a little more conservative. trousers tend to ride up your leg when you're mid-stride, and the advantage of having a single or full break is that you don't end up showing too much sock when you're walking
on the other hand, the upside of having no break is that you get a clean, uninterrupted line when standing still.
note, trousers worn with a belt or side tabs have a tendency to slip a little throughout the day and require adjusting. these minor differences will affect the break
I think some of the disposability we see in fashion today is a result of people simply not knowing how clothes can be repaired. When things get worn out, they toss them. So, I'll do a series on how certain garments can be repaired, starting with jeans. 🧵
Jeans typically first wear out around the knees or, ahem, the crotch, where you have a lot of friction. You can repair these holes in two ways. First is patching, which can be done on either side of the fabric. This can be good for a kind of distressed look
Pic: Denim Therapy
The second option is darning, which is a way of filling in the hole with new material. This can be better than patching because it's less visible, but the downside is that the repaired area can be a stiff at first (although it breaks in).
speaking for only menswear, i agree that we've never had it so good. today, there are an infinite number of legitimate aesthetics. you can dress in any outfit from the past plus any contemporary ones (pics 1, 2, 3, and 4). but this also presents a big problem for many people. 🧵
in the early to mid-20th cent, brooks brothers had something they privately called a "CU customer." this was someone who came in to "see you," a specific sales associate (SA). Brooks SAs had close relationships with their customers. these relationships often lasted decades
SAs carried little notebooks, in which they would jot the names of their customers, their preferences, their size, and such. in this way, if you came in and said you had a summer wedding to attend, they could recommend the right thing. SAs helped you build a wardrobe.
will do a category for each and end w/ modern example 🧵
dress overcoats: great with tailoring, but can also be worn over chunky knits and paired with jeans or tailored trousers. get ones that end around your knees; short overcoats suck.
relatedly, polo coats: what im most excited about this season. derives from the wrap coats that polo players used to wear btw periods of play. sophisticated but sporty. goes with tailoring or causalwear. check ebay for labels like ralph lauren, brooks brothers, and j press
raincoats: single-breasted is called a mac; double-breasted is a trench. IMO, macs are best worn casually (over a sweater and with jeans). trenches are better with tailoring. again, must be knee length. search old Burberry or check out the Japanese brand Coherence
going to get very into the weeds on color theory in mensewar, repeat some info that im sure many people have already heard me say, and then recommend some things without regard to price bc jason has the money to spend 🧵
tan shoes are one of the worst trends in men's style. i think guys buy them because they don't want to look boring in black or dark brown shoes. they want shoes with ZING! but in a tailored outfit, the focus should be on the V-shape formed by the coat, shirt, and tie. not shoes.
guys often pair tan shoes with dark suits. but this ends up creating two competing points for attention: your face and your feet. the bright colored shoes end up shining out from underneath your dark trousers like flashlights. they become a distraction.
sometimes i dont know if im saying things are too obvious, but you should buy clothes that easily mix and match. that way, you can buy a handful of items to create an infinite number of outfits 🧵
an easy way to do this is to build a wardrobe around one or two aesthetics that easily play with each other. for instance, rugged workwear items draw from the same design language, so they work together.
similarly, if you normally wear things like suits and sport coats, you can get certain casual jackets that pair well with tailored trousers (pic 1, 2, and 3). but something too avant-garde (pic 4) requires different types of shirts and pants to create the right silhouette/ look