Much of tailoring has to do with the shoulder. Many things go into the construction of a shoulder line. The most obvious is padding, which determines how built up the shoulder looks. The other element is how the sleeve has been attached to the body.
Here are three suits with similarly sloped shoulders. They must be the same right? But when you reveal the sleeveheads, you can see how the expression changes.
Left: roped shoulder with a stronger T-shaped line
Right: soft shoulder with a rounded line
Another element is whether the shoulder is extended or not. An extended shoulder will help you avoid that "bobblehead" effect that Molly mentioned. It can also give you a stronger V-shaped silhouette. This can be especially useful if you don't naturally have this figure.
The problem with a very soft, extended shoulder is that the end is likely to droop over time. The older man here is the head of Rubinacci in Naples, one of the most respected bespoke tailoring houses. Notice that the end of the shoulder droops a little. This is the extension.
Many men go into a suit shop and have a very clinical view of how a suit should fit. They think, "OK, does the shoulder seam sit on my shoulder bone?" "Does the body hug my body?"
But good tailoring is not meant to recreate the lines on your body. It should flatter your body.
Here, we see a man in two different coats. Notice how different he looks. The very soft coat on the left gives the impression of a diminutive figure. The coat on the right is a little built up: slightly more padding, a bit of roping, and an extended shoulder. IMO, looks better
Gaetz has the same issue with his suits. He buys very soft suits with shrunken silhouettes. So here, we see three things:
1. A very soft, unpadded shoulder 2. Sleevehead has little ridging, so the shoulder line curves off the body and goes into the sleeve 3. No extension
This is not an apples-to-apples comparison because we're comparing two different bodies. But see how Gaetz is wearing that same silhouette. Bobblehead effect. Karl is wearing a slightly extended shoulder with a roped sleevehead. No bobblehead effect.
Not everyone will want to wear a roped or extended shoulder. Much depends on your body type. But a lot of tailoring nowadays is very slim and shrunken with no padding underneath. The effect is something like what you see below, which is not flattering on many guys.
Will add a little more for those curious about tailoring. But the following will not be relevant if you buy ready-to-wear; it's only applicable if you get clothes custom-made (and primarily through a bespoke process, rather than made-to-measure).
Every seam has a bit of seam allowance because you can't sew fabric right at the edge. If you look inside your trousers, you'll see the seam allowance running along the inside leg. If you have partially lined suit jackets or sport coats, the back seam will also show the seam allowance. Typically, both of these seams are pressed open.
The area where the sleeve attaches to the shoulder is the same. The seam allowance looks something like picture 1. The sleeve here is green. The shoulder is red. The black line is the stitching that joins these two pieces.
Once they're joined, the tailor has to figure out what to do with the seam allowance. They can press it open, as they do with the back seam on your coats or the leg seam on your trousers. That will push the sleeve's seam allowance towards the sleeve. And the shoulder's seam allowance towards the neck. See picture 2.
Or the tailor can press both seam outlets towards the neck. Depending on how the sleeve is cut, inserted, and finished, this can create the very rounded shoulder line and waterfall effect you see in picture 3. Note how the sleeve basically drops right where the sleeve seam starts. This creates a very rounded look.
If you are working with a tailor and they're making a very soft shoulder, and you want a bit of shoulder extension, you can ask them to press both seam outlets towards the sleeve. This will create a bit of support for the sleeve and "prop" up the material, creating the illusion of an extended shoulder without actually changing the shoulder measurement. Italian tailors call this mappina. See picture 4.
This avoids the droopy shoulder that can sometimes happen with a very soft, extended shoulder. You won't get that much of an extension, but you will get a little. For guys with very narrow or rounded shoulders, it can give you a more flattering silhouette.
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I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")
I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.
It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects.
Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250.
Ahead of the NATO summit last month, President Zelenskyy arrived at the Paleis Huis ten Bosch wearing this outfit: a black jacket with matching black pants and a black shirt. Many debated whether this qualifies as a suit, as there's a $50M bet on it at Polymarket.
To understand the suit, we must place it in history.
During the Regency period (early 1800s), British men in high positions wore a long fitted garment known as the frock coat, which had a waist seam and full skirt. These garments were often quite colorful and expressive!
Any time I talk about a wealthy person's outfit, someone in the comments is quick to reply: "They're rich, you think they care?" No one has to care about my opinions or clothes, regardless of net worth.
But let's talk about the connection between wealth and aesthetics 🧵
About a year ago, Tucker Carlson told Chris Cuomo that "postmodern architecture" is intentionally designed to deaden the spirit. The clip was widely circulated online by people such as Benny Johnson, who seemingly agreed.
Postmodern architecture was actually a very brief movement that emerged in the 1960s as a counter-reaction to modernism's austerity and uniformity. Examples of postmodernism include Michael Graves's Portland Building and Guild House. Also Phillip Johnson's PPG Place.
Trump released a $250 fragrance (one for women, one for men).
Sometimes a fragrance can be expensive because it contains certain ingredients or involve artisanal, small-batch production. But with no note breakdown or even a description of the scent, what justifies this price?
I'm reminded of this 2016 blog post by Luca Turin, one of the best writers on fragrances. Even for niche perfumery he warns: "Niche perfumery stands a good chance of disappearing up its own rear end if it merely becomes yet another golden opportunity to rip off the customer."
If you're into fragrances, as I am, I encourage you to not support celebrity bullshit like this. Go to real perfumers. Some of my favorites include:
— AbdesSalaam Attar: He's a self-taught Sicilian Sufi perfumer who only uses natural ingredients. Many of his perfumes feel like you're walking through a Middle Eastern bazaar or spice market. Milano Caffe, Cuoio dei Dolci, and Tabac are worth a sniff. He can also do bespoke perfumes using your favorite notes.
— DS & Durga: David Moltz describes himself as doing "scent travel." He has an uncanny ability to transport you to far off places. I like Cowboy Grass, Debaser, Amber Kiso, and Burning Barbershop. If you can get a sample of his Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake Sample (made part of his Hylands collection), it's really good with tailored tweeds.
— Anything by Jean Claude Ellena: One of the most famous perfumers in the world. His scents have been likened to watercolor paintings and chamber music because they're light, airy, and have a transparent quality. This makes them particularly good for spring/ summer. Check his scents from Hermes, such as Terre d'Hermes and Un Jardin sur le Nil, which are easy to find on discount. L'Eau d'Hiver for Frederic Malle is also great, but a bit more expensive.
— Tauer Perfumes: Andy Tauer is a chemist and self-taught perfumer who specializes in dry, spicy, woody scents. L'Air du Desert Marocain makes you feel like you're in the middle of the desert at night. Lonestar Memories is like being next to a crackling campfire while picking up on the scent of tobacco and leather. IMO, a must try if you're exploring niche perfumery.
Always try to get samples before buying a bottle. Check shops such as Luckyscent, Surrender to Chance, and The Perfumed Court. Also pick up a copy of Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.
People think I'm biased against Jeff Bezos, but here's F. Caraceni Sartoria, widely considered one of the best bespoke tailoring houses in the world, commenting on Bezos's wedding suit.
"The most terrible, frightening, horrible tuxedo ever seen in my life. I'm really suffering"
Nothing to do with politics, only quality tailoring. F. Caraceni made suits for Silvio Berlusconi, who was hardly beloved by progressives. Many people don't know much about tailoring, which is fine, but this doesn't mean that rich or expensive = good.
Caraceni's work:
Here is a dinner suit F. Caraceni made for Yves Saint Laurent.