derek guy Profile picture
Nov 28, 2023 11 tweets 7 min read Read on X
Someone said they don't see a difference between how Hoffman dresses here and how many guys dress today, so I thought I'd run through some points.

What makes these outfits better than what we see today? 🧵
A big difference is fit. A lot of guys nowadays wear clothes that are too small. Notice that Hoffman's coat ends about halfway from his collar to what would be the floor; Gaetz's jacket barely covers his rear. As an effect, Gaetz looks like he's wearing his little brother's suit
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Overly tight clothes can cause all sorts of problems. Straining at the waist. A collar that doesn't hug the neck. Divots at the sleeveheads. Lapels that buckle away from the chest. Etc.

Hoffman's coat isn't fastened, but if it were, you would not see these issues.
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His combo also makes aesthetic sense. We have a tan tweed sport coat worn with a denim shirt and casual fatigues. A lot of guys nowadays take a suit jacket and just pair it with jeans, which gives you something like a sartorial mullet. Formal up top; very casual down bottom.
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We can take this idea further by thinking about the details. Tweed + denim Western shirt + fatigues have similar levels of formality and draw from similar histories. Has a very "rugged American guy who threw on a sport coat" vibe. Ralph Lauren has drawn on this idea for ages.
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By contrast, Peterson here is wearing a tweed (casual, sport) with a shiny satin tie (formal, evening), white shirt (formal, business), and light blue jeans (casual, rugged). This outfit would make sense if you're meeting investors at an evening party after duck hunting at 3pm Image
Even when Hoffman is just wearing a button-up shirt with pants, it's more than the bland business casual we see everywhere else today. Instead of a plain white dress shirt, he's wearing a snap-button Western shirt. Instead of middle-class sneakers, he's wearing bit loafers.
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The other two photos show outfits that are improved by a finishing layer (some type of layering piece) and clothes that fit better than what you often see today. There is again harmony in the outfits: sporty on the left, rugged on the right. Today, you see a lot more incoherence
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Two more things: You can also see these ideas in the film When Harry Met Sally.

1. Clothes often fit better
2. Often a finishing layer (except in sweater outfit, but even then, it's a more interesting knit than plain merino crewneck)
3. Harmony in formality and history


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For instance, the outfit on the left would be ruined by a pair of formal oxford shoes. The outfit on the right is great because it's again a tweed sport coat (not a suit jacket) worn with a casual button-up shirt (no tie), jeans, and loafers (not incoherent dress sneakers)
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Second point: these are obviously famous people who benefit from the effect of good cinematography. But you can see how these ideas are employed even by non-famous people. Coherence, fit, and using slightly more interesting pieces than business casual can make you look great.


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More from @dieworkwear

Jul 15
I disagree that this is an aesthetically pleasing photo. Tristan's outfit ruins it and I'll tell you why. 🧵 Image
I'll assume Tristan is telling the truth when he says he used Photoshop and not AI. If so, this is a very impressive Photoshop job. By removing the scaffold tarp, you reveal more of the building. By removing the other cars, you also achieve more aesthetic coherence. Image
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What is aesthetic coherence? It's the idea that things based on shared history or spirit go together. For instance, I've long said that the Cybertruck could look very cool if you wore certain outfits (futuristic techwear) and lived in a Brutalist home. Image
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Read 15 tweets
Jul 14
Some people are incredulous that you can wear certain shoes without socks, such as leather loafers. Much depends on your body and climate. But I'll tell you one reason why you find this difficult to believe: you buy low quality footwear. 🧵 Image
It's absolutely possible to wear certain shoes without socks. As mentioned in an earlier thread, men have been doing this for over a hundred years. Going sockless makes sense if the outfit is semi-casual (not business clothes). Image
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In fact, if you wear socks with certain footwear styles, such as espadrilles, you will look like you don't know what you're doing. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Jul 13
Tim is right and wrong here. I'll tell you where he's right and where he's wrong. 🧵 Image
It's perfectly fine to wear slip-on shoes without socks. Those who suggest otherwise are simply ignorant and unaware about the history of men's dress.

You don't have to take my word for it. We can go back to Apparel Arts. Image
Apparel Arts was an early 20th century trade publication that taught men how to dress well. It was sent to clothiers and tailors so they could smartly advise their clients, but it later became a public-facing publication under the title "Esquire." Image
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Read 24 tweets
Jul 11
I get this sort of comment all the time, often about bespoke suits or mechanical watches. "These things are boring," "This is only for rich people," or "Who cares?"

Let me tell you a story. 🧵 Image
Before the age of ready-to-wear, men had clothes made for them, either in the home or, if they could afford one, by a tailor. Ready-made clothing was limited to simple workwear, such as what was worn by sailors or miners.

Tailoring shop, 1780: Image
In this older method, a tailor would measure you, sometimes using a string (before the invention of tailor's tape). Then they'd use those measurements to draft a pattern, cut the cloth, and produce a garment. This process is called bespoke. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 11
As I've stated many times, suit jackets and sport coats are made from many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, and padding. These layers give the garment its structure so it doesn't fall on you like a t-shirt or dress shirt. Image
For the chest and lapels, these layers can be attached to each other using a single-needle roll-padding machine, such as you see here. This is what you'll typically see on factory-made suits (this is a Strobel KA-ED machine). Happens both on the low- and high-end.
Read 7 tweets
Jul 8
I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")

I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵 Image
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.

It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects. Image
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Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250. Image
Read 24 tweets

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