A big difference is fit. A lot of guys nowadays wear clothes that are too small. Notice that Hoffman's coat ends about halfway from his collar to what would be the floor; Gaetz's jacket barely covers his rear. As an effect, Gaetz looks like he's wearing his little brother's suit
Overly tight clothes can cause all sorts of problems. Straining at the waist. A collar that doesn't hug the neck. Divots at the sleeveheads. Lapels that buckle away from the chest. Etc.
Hoffman's coat isn't fastened, but if it were, you would not see these issues.
His combo also makes aesthetic sense. We have a tan tweed sport coat worn with a denim shirt and casual fatigues. A lot of guys nowadays take a suit jacket and just pair it with jeans, which gives you something like a sartorial mullet. Formal up top; very casual down bottom.
We can take this idea further by thinking about the details. Tweed + denim Western shirt + fatigues have similar levels of formality and draw from similar histories. Has a very "rugged American guy who threw on a sport coat" vibe. Ralph Lauren has drawn on this idea for ages.
By contrast, Peterson here is wearing a tweed (casual, sport) with a shiny satin tie (formal, evening), white shirt (formal, business), and light blue jeans (casual, rugged). This outfit would make sense if you're meeting investors at an evening party after duck hunting at 3pm
Even when Hoffman is just wearing a button-up shirt with pants, it's more than the bland business casual we see everywhere else today. Instead of a plain white dress shirt, he's wearing a snap-button Western shirt. Instead of middle-class sneakers, he's wearing bit loafers.
The other two photos show outfits that are improved by a finishing layer (some type of layering piece) and clothes that fit better than what you often see today. There is again harmony in the outfits: sporty on the left, rugged on the right. Today, you see a lot more incoherence
Two more things: You can also see these ideas in the film When Harry Met Sally.
1. Clothes often fit better 2. Often a finishing layer (except in sweater outfit, but even then, it's a more interesting knit than plain merino crewneck) 3. Harmony in formality and history
For instance, the outfit on the left would be ruined by a pair of formal oxford shoes. The outfit on the right is great because it's again a tweed sport coat (not a suit jacket) worn with a casual button-up shirt (no tie), jeans, and loafers (not incoherent dress sneakers)
Second point: these are obviously famous people who benefit from the effect of good cinematography. But you can see how these ideas are employed even by non-famous people. Coherence, fit, and using slightly more interesting pieces than business casual can make you look great.
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If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.