derek guy Profile picture
Nov 28, 2023 11 tweets 7 min read Read on X
Someone said they don't see a difference between how Hoffman dresses here and how many guys dress today, so I thought I'd run through some points.

What makes these outfits better than what we see today? 🧵
A big difference is fit. A lot of guys nowadays wear clothes that are too small. Notice that Hoffman's coat ends about halfway from his collar to what would be the floor; Gaetz's jacket barely covers his rear. As an effect, Gaetz looks like he's wearing his little brother's suit
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Overly tight clothes can cause all sorts of problems. Straining at the waist. A collar that doesn't hug the neck. Divots at the sleeveheads. Lapels that buckle away from the chest. Etc.

Hoffman's coat isn't fastened, but if it were, you would not see these issues.
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His combo also makes aesthetic sense. We have a tan tweed sport coat worn with a denim shirt and casual fatigues. A lot of guys nowadays take a suit jacket and just pair it with jeans, which gives you something like a sartorial mullet. Formal up top; very casual down bottom.
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We can take this idea further by thinking about the details. Tweed + denim Western shirt + fatigues have similar levels of formality and draw from similar histories. Has a very "rugged American guy who threw on a sport coat" vibe. Ralph Lauren has drawn on this idea for ages.
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By contrast, Peterson here is wearing a tweed (casual, sport) with a shiny satin tie (formal, evening), white shirt (formal, business), and light blue jeans (casual, rugged). This outfit would make sense if you're meeting investors at an evening party after duck hunting at 3pm Image
Even when Hoffman is just wearing a button-up shirt with pants, it's more than the bland business casual we see everywhere else today. Instead of a plain white dress shirt, he's wearing a snap-button Western shirt. Instead of middle-class sneakers, he's wearing bit loafers.
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The other two photos show outfits that are improved by a finishing layer (some type of layering piece) and clothes that fit better than what you often see today. There is again harmony in the outfits: sporty on the left, rugged on the right. Today, you see a lot more incoherence
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Two more things: You can also see these ideas in the film When Harry Met Sally.

1. Clothes often fit better
2. Often a finishing layer (except in sweater outfit, but even then, it's a more interesting knit than plain merino crewneck)
3. Harmony in formality and history


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For instance, the outfit on the left would be ruined by a pair of formal oxford shoes. The outfit on the right is great because it's again a tweed sport coat (not a suit jacket) worn with a casual button-up shirt (no tie), jeans, and loafers (not incoherent dress sneakers)
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Second point: these are obviously famous people who benefit from the effect of good cinematography. But you can see how these ideas are employed even by non-famous people. Coherence, fit, and using slightly more interesting pieces than business casual can make you look great.


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More from @dieworkwear

Sep 15
I disagree that Obama wore "slick suits."

Let me tell you about Obama's tailoring. 🧵
I've seen people here suggest Obama was a stylish president. I couldn't disagree more. Outfits like these read better in 2025, but during the slim-fit, Euro style craze of his presidency, Obama was routinely panned for his "frumpy dad style." See Vanity Fair. Image
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His style transformation really came post-presidency. I suspect, but don't have proof, that this is partly the influence of his wife, who is quite stylish. Even his suits look better now. See clean shoulder line + shirt collar points reaching lapels + nice four-in-hand dimple. Image
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Read 16 tweets
Sep 9
Although it's rarely expressed in outright terms, people often use a very simple heuristic when solving fashion problems: they wish to look rich, which is often disguised as "respectable."

I will show you why this rarely leads to good outfits. 🧵 Image
In 1902, German sociologist Georg Simmel neatly summed up fashion in an essay titled "On Fashion." Fashion, he asserted was simply a game of imitation in which people copy their "social betters." This causes the upper classes to move on, so as to distinguish themselves. Image
He was right. And his theory explains why Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor, was the most influential menswear figure in the early 20th century. By virtue of his position and taste, he popularized soft collars, belted trousers, cuffs, Fair Isle sweaters, and all sorts of things. Image
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Read 25 tweets
Sep 6
It's funny to see people imbue traditional men's tailoring with their own prejudices. They assume every man who wore a suit in the far past must be a staunch conservative like them. The truth is much more complicated. 🧵
This bias, of course, stems out of the 1960s and 70s, from which many of our contemporary politics also spring. I don't need to belabor this point because you already know it. The framing is neatly summed up in this Mad Men scene — the rag tag hippie vs man in a suit.
Thus, people assume that men in suits must always be part of the conservative establishment. But this was not always so. The suit was once a working man's garment. When Keir Hardie, founder of the Labour Party, arrived for his first day in Parliament, he wore a suit. Image
Read 17 tweets
Sep 6
Which of these two jackets do you prefer?

There's no "right" or "wrong" answer here, so feel free to go with your gut. I will then give you my views below. 🧵 Image
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In men's tailoring, the area below the jacket's buttoning point is colloquially known as the "quarters" among menswear enthusiasts. Or the "front edge" by actual tailors. These terms refer to the edge of the coat, connecting to lapels. Image
Some suit jackets have very closed quarters, such as you see on the left. In this way, the jacket forms a Y-shaped silhouette.

Other suits have open quarters, such that the front edge sweeps back on the hips, as you see on the right. This forms an X-shaped silhouette. Image
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Read 6 tweets
Aug 30
Here are ways to dress up in the summer if you wear menswear. 🧵
We will start with the most formal and work our way down, so that you can adjust things in ways that make sense for you.

The first and most obvious choice is to wear a soft-shouldered suit rendered in a material such as linen or seersucker. Seersucker can even be tonal (pic 4) Image
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However, when it comes to dressing for the heat, it's important to remember that the fabric's weight and weave are more important than fiber. A 10oz tropical wool — known for its open weave — will wear cooler than a densely woven 14 oz linen because it allows air to pass through Image
Read 23 tweets
Aug 26
I will tell you why I think the split-toe derby is the greatest dress shoe of all time. 🧵 Image
Let's first start with some terms. The term oxford refers to a footwear style where the facings have been sewn into the vamp. By contrast, the term derby refers to a style where the facings sit on top of the vamp.

On the left, we see an oxford. On the right, we see a derby. Image
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I believe that men wore tailored clothing best from the 1930s through '80s. If you share this premise, there are certain ideas about how an outfit should be put together, such as how oxfords look best with suits, while derbies go with suits or sport coats

Read 19 tweets

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