derek guy Profile picture
Nov 28 11 tweets 7 min read Twitter logo Read on Twitter
Someone said they don't see a difference between how Hoffman dresses here and how many guys dress today, so I thought I'd run through some points.

What makes these outfits better than what we see today? 🧵
A big difference is fit. A lot of guys nowadays wear clothes that are too small. Notice that Hoffman's coat ends about halfway from his collar to what would be the floor; Gaetz's jacket barely covers his rear. As an effect, Gaetz looks like he's wearing his little brother's suit
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Overly tight clothes can cause all sorts of problems. Straining at the waist. A collar that doesn't hug the neck. Divots at the sleeveheads. Lapels that buckle away from the chest. Etc.

Hoffman's coat isn't fastened, but if it were, you would not see these issues.
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His combo also makes aesthetic sense. We have a tan tweed sport coat worn with a denim shirt and casual fatigues. A lot of guys nowadays take a suit jacket and just pair it with jeans, which gives you something like a sartorial mullet. Formal up top; very casual down bottom.
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We can take this idea further by thinking about the details. Tweed + denim Western shirt + fatigues have similar levels of formality and draw from similar histories. Has a very "rugged American guy who threw on a sport coat" vibe. Ralph Lauren has drawn on this idea for ages.
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By contrast, Peterson here is wearing a tweed (casual, sport) with a shiny satin tie (formal, evening), white shirt (formal, business), and light blue jeans (casual, rugged). This outfit would make sense if you're meeting investors at an evening party after duck hunting at 3pm Image
Even when Hoffman is just wearing a button-up shirt with pants, it's more than the bland business casual we see everywhere else today. Instead of a plain white dress shirt, he's wearing a snap-button Western shirt. Instead of middle-class sneakers, he's wearing bit loafers.
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The other two photos show outfits that are improved by a finishing layer (some type of layering piece) and clothes that fit better than what you often see today. There is again harmony in the outfits: sporty on the left, rugged on the right. Today, you see a lot more incoherence
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Two more things: You can also see these ideas in the film When Harry Met Sally.

1. Clothes often fit better
2. Often a finishing layer (except in sweater outfit, but even then, it's a more interesting knit than plain merino crewneck)
3. Harmony in formality and history


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For instance, the outfit on the left would be ruined by a pair of formal oxford shoes. The outfit on the right is great because it's again a tweed sport coat (not a suit jacket) worn with a casual button-up shirt (no tie), jeans, and loafers (not incoherent dress sneakers)
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Second point: these are obviously famous people who benefit from the effect of good cinematography. But you can see how these ideas are employed even by non-famous people. Coherence, fit, and using slightly more interesting pieces than business casual can make you look great.


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More from @dieworkwear

Nov 29
A friend of mine and I were recently discussing how to spot quality. I firmly believe that some of the best work today is done by small, independent workshops, not large luxury brands. So I want to highlight one of my favorite makers, Chester Mox.

🔗: tinyurl.com/5n7jf8xr
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Part of the problem nowadays is that many people don't know how to spot the more substantive markers for quality, and they can get quickly swept up by brand recognition, the romance of luxury, or celebrity endorsements.
For example, in 2010, the UK Advertising Standards Authority banned a series of Louis Vuitton advertisements. The ads featured paintings that looked like they were made by Johannes Vermeer, and underneath each image was some breathless prose.
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Read 23 tweets
Nov 28
Someone asked, "What's up with the rolled pant legs in each of these outfits?" So here's a thread on the history behind men cuffing pants, the meaning of cuffs, and how to think about when you might want to cuff your pants. This thread covers tailored trousers and jeans. 🧵
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As a consequence of the Second British Empire, much of traditional Western men's dress comes from England. There, men of means had wardrobes cleaved between country and city. County clothes were for sport. City clothes were for business. Hence the phrase, "no brown in town."
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No one really knows when British men started cuffing their pants, as much of menswear history is muddled with lore. But one story suggests it started with King Edward VII, who turned up his pants to prevent the hems from getting dirty in the mud or rain. Image
Read 19 tweets
Nov 26
He's wearing a ready-to-wear suit that was made to imitate certain Southern Italian tailoring details, typically done by bespoke tailors. Before I elaborate, I should note that there's nothing wrong with wearing RTW suits or machine-made versions of hand-executed details.

🧵
The pleating you see here is called a waterfall sleevehead. It's associated, but not exactly the same, with something called spalla camicia, which means "shirt shoulder" in Italian.
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A normal suit will have a shoulder that looks like it's running under the sleeve (pic 1). A spalla camicia shoulder will look like the sleeve is running under the shoulder, not coming on top of it (pic 2). It's called a "shirt shoulder" because this is how your shirts are made.
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Read 14 tweets
Nov 23
here is my hot winter style take:

almost all outerwear looks better when it's worn open.

this is especially true of single-breasted overcoats, which can make you look like you're wrapped in a bolt of cloth when they're closed 🧵
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a reasonable person will say: "are you fucking stupid? is this a joke? do you know how cold it is you absolute cancer on this app??"

one solution is to wear knitwear underneath. and a scarf. and if it's really cold, wool baselayers (e.g., smartwool or woolx)

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if you wear tailored clothing, you can also layer a suit or sport coat underneath, and then fasten that jacket. the open overcoat in this case will help create visual interest, and allow the viewer to see the layers.


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Read 8 tweets
Nov 20
I see this often: the idea that expensive clothes are not worth their asking price, and that these factories use the same labor practices as fast fashion. The idea throws doubt on companies trying to do the right thing, and gives cover to fast fashion. But is it true? 🧵 Image
It's true that price alone is no guarantee of quality or ethical production. But it's untrue that this is a reasonable characterization of the market. Let's do some comparisons.

Let's start with a high-end American-made suit because it's what I know best.
At a US suit factory, a garment worker's wage will be tied to their skill set. But the average worker will make about $15/ hour. For a 40-hour work week, that's $600. They also get benefits, such as healthcare, which adds to the cost of manufacturing the suit. Image
Read 18 tweets
Nov 17
One of my favorite winter garments is a handknit guernsey from Flambourgh Marine, which, from what I can tell, is a British sweater business connected to a bed & breakfast. 🧵

🔗: tinyurl.com/353skdk3

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Most people know about Arans, the sweater Chris Evans wore in Knives Out. As the story goes, Aran patterns used to be distinct to certain families, which allowed families to identify the poor, dead bodies of drowned fisherman washed ashore (story is almost certainly apocryphal) Image
The lesser-known fisherman knit is the gunersey, which is distinct from the Aran in that it typically features a high neck collar and dropped shoulder seams. The sweaters are knitted "on the round," which means they're seamless.
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Read 13 tweets

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