Someone asked, "What's up with the rolled pant legs in each of these outfits?" So here's a thread on the history behind men cuffing pants, the meaning of cuffs, and how to think about when you might want to cuff your pants. This thread covers tailored trousers and jeans. 🧵
As a consequence of the Second British Empire, much of traditional Western men's dress comes from England. There, men of means had wardrobes cleaved between country and city. County clothes were for sport. City clothes were for business. Hence the phrase, "no brown in town."
No one really knows when British men started cuffing their pants, as much of menswear history is muddled with lore. But one story suggests it started with King Edward VII, who turned up his pants to prevent the hems from getting dirty in the mud or rain.
Regardless of who started doing it, the detail was considered casual. It was more often seen on country suits worn for sport while trudging through the muddy countryside than on slick worsteds worn for business around London's streets.
This was until Edward VIII came along. By all accounts, Edward VIII (also known as the Duke of Windsor) was a blithering idiot, but he was also the single most influential figure in men's fashion during the 20th century. When he wore something, others followed.
The Duke loved breaking menswear rules and making his outfits more casual (anyone who laments the casualization of men's style in the modern era is unfamiliar with history). The Duke's father, George V, often criticized him for wearing turn-ups while inspecting troops.
The Duke didn't care and made cuffs a style signature. Soon, everyone was doing it, including the future members of the Royal family. It also became common to see them on "city suits" made by some of Savile Row's most traditional tailors.
Americans have always been about making clothes a little more casual. We popularized the single-breasted two-piece suit, the lounge suit as business daywear, penny and tassel loafers with suits, oxford button-down collars, seersucker, patchwork madras, 3 roll 2 sack jackets, etc
So it's no surprise that Americans adopted cuffs. Flat-front pants with cuffed hems were a signature of a style imported from Britain, championed by Brooks Brothers, and spread across the US through Ivy clothiers. Note RFK's cuffed hem and 2 button sleeve (both casual details)
There is a somewhat concurrent history here with jeans. In the early days, jeans were made from unsanforized denim, which is to say that the fabric was not pre-shrunk. This meant that the jeans shrank a little over time with each wash.
To prevent jeans from being too short ("high waters"), people cuffed them so the length was adjustable.
Over time, jean production became modernized. Denim was more commonly sanforized. Shuttle looms were replaced by power looms. There was also pre-washing and -distressing.
But there were also people—many in Japan—who loved those original pre-1970s Levis jeans. Things made from raw, unsanforized denim that had been woven on old shuttle looms. Collectors looked for a "Big E" on the Levis tab and a selvedge stripe on the inside leg.
As the cost of vintage jeans went up, people started to make new jeans using these old methods. That's where you get shops such as @selfedge (my favorite denim store). You may ask, "how can jeans cost $300+?" It's because these are made in small batches using niche methods.
For people who love that vintage look, they may turn up the cuffs to show off the selvedge stripe (pic 1). This admittedly used to be a rarer detail 10-20 years ago than it is today (but it's still cool, IMO). Others wear cuffs bc they take inspiration from vintage looks (pic 2)
So, how should you think about cuffs in relation to your outfits?
For trousers, adding a cuff can help them hang better, as you have a bit of weight at the end of your pants. They are fine on anything except tuxedos (as this is a casual detail).
To me, pleated pants almost cry out for cuffs. Flat fronts can go either way (although the Ivy thing to do is cuff). Anything between 1.5" and 2" is fine, although narrow pant legs should be on the smaller side. I like my friend Dick Carroll's guide here (IG dick.carroll)
For denim, I think cuffs are good if the outfit feels classic or vintage-inspired. For a more contemporary outfit, such as what you see at Lemaire or Margiela, I think a plain hem or even a stacked leg looks better.
A graphic designer friend once put it in very useful terms: you can think of cuffs like the serif on a font. A serif can make typography look more traditional, while a sans-serif looks more modern. So traditional tailoring? Cuff. More modern look? Plain hem.
If you just bought a new pair of pants and you're unsure whether you should get them finished with a cuff or a plain hem, I recommend starting with a cuff. You can always take cuffs out, but you can't put them in.
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I found this reply interesting ("Can those foreign companies open shop in the US?")
I don't think Japanese or South Korean menswear can be made in the US. At least, not without losing something. Let's explore why. 🧵
I should state at the outset that no thread will do Japanese or South Korean fashion justice because these countries are fashion powerhouses. Japan alone covers everything from Yohji Yamamoto to And Wander to WTAPS.
It's Impossible to generalize, but we can discuss aspects.
Let's set the stage: Trump announced that he wants to tax Japanese and South Korean goods 25% starting August 1st. That means if you're a menswear shop in the US importing $1,000 worth of clothes made in Japan or South Korea, you owe the US government $250.
Ahead of the NATO summit last month, President Zelenskyy arrived at the Paleis Huis ten Bosch wearing this outfit: a black jacket with matching black pants and a black shirt. Many debated whether this qualifies as a suit, as there's a $50M bet on it at Polymarket.
To understand the suit, we must place it in history.
During the Regency period (early 1800s), British men in high positions wore a long fitted garment known as the frock coat, which had a waist seam and full skirt. These garments were often quite colorful and expressive!
Any time I talk about a wealthy person's outfit, someone in the comments is quick to reply: "They're rich, you think they care?" No one has to care about my opinions or clothes, regardless of net worth.
But let's talk about the connection between wealth and aesthetics 🧵
About a year ago, Tucker Carlson told Chris Cuomo that "postmodern architecture" is intentionally designed to deaden the spirit. The clip was widely circulated online by people such as Benny Johnson, who seemingly agreed.
Postmodern architecture was actually a very brief movement that emerged in the 1960s as a counter-reaction to modernism's austerity and uniformity. Examples of postmodernism include Michael Graves's Portland Building and Guild House. Also Phillip Johnson's PPG Place.
Trump released a $250 fragrance (one for women, one for men).
Sometimes a fragrance can be expensive because it contains certain ingredients or involve artisanal, small-batch production. But with no note breakdown or even a description of the scent, what justifies this price?
I'm reminded of this 2016 blog post by Luca Turin, one of the best writers on fragrances. Even for niche perfumery he warns: "Niche perfumery stands a good chance of disappearing up its own rear end if it merely becomes yet another golden opportunity to rip off the customer."
If you're into fragrances, as I am, I encourage you to not support celebrity bullshit like this. Go to real perfumers. Some of my favorites include:
— AbdesSalaam Attar: He's a self-taught Sicilian Sufi perfumer who only uses natural ingredients. Many of his perfumes feel like you're walking through a Middle Eastern bazaar or spice market. Milano Caffe, Cuoio dei Dolci, and Tabac are worth a sniff. He can also do bespoke perfumes using your favorite notes.
— DS & Durga: David Moltz describes himself as doing "scent travel." He has an uncanny ability to transport you to far off places. I like Cowboy Grass, Debaser, Amber Kiso, and Burning Barbershop. If you can get a sample of his Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake Sample (made part of his Hylands collection), it's really good with tailored tweeds.
— Anything by Jean Claude Ellena: One of the most famous perfumers in the world. His scents have been likened to watercolor paintings and chamber music because they're light, airy, and have a transparent quality. This makes them particularly good for spring/ summer. Check his scents from Hermes, such as Terre d'Hermes and Un Jardin sur le Nil, which are easy to find on discount. L'Eau d'Hiver for Frederic Malle is also great, but a bit more expensive.
— Tauer Perfumes: Andy Tauer is a chemist and self-taught perfumer who specializes in dry, spicy, woody scents. L'Air du Desert Marocain makes you feel like you're in the middle of the desert at night. Lonestar Memories is like being next to a crackling campfire while picking up on the scent of tobacco and leather. IMO, a must try if you're exploring niche perfumery.
Always try to get samples before buying a bottle. Check shops such as Luckyscent, Surrender to Chance, and The Perfumed Court. Also pick up a copy of Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.
People think I'm biased against Jeff Bezos, but here's F. Caraceni Sartoria, widely considered one of the best bespoke tailoring houses in the world, commenting on Bezos's wedding suit.
"The most terrible, frightening, horrible tuxedo ever seen in my life. I'm really suffering"
Nothing to do with politics, only quality tailoring. F. Caraceni made suits for Silvio Berlusconi, who was hardly beloved by progressives. Many people don't know much about tailoring, which is fine, but this doesn't mean that rich or expensive = good.
Caraceni's work:
Here is a dinner suit F. Caraceni made for Yves Saint Laurent.