Let's talk about this because you may get invited to a party this holiday season that calls for "cocktail attire." What is cocktail attire? And how can you do it well? 🧵
The term "cocktail attire" comes from a time when people went out and mingled at cocktail bars. In these physical spaces, there were two groups:
1) People just getting off of work 2) People on their way to another evening event, such as seeing a show
As such, cocktail attire refers to the things that people naturally wore during this period, given where they had just come from or where they were heading.
Office workers wore suits.
People on their way to an evening show, such as the opera, wore black tie.
We don't really live in that world anymore, but if the invite says "cocktail attire," you will never be wrong showing up in a dark business suit or black tie.
However, in doing so, you should aim to dress elegantly. That means wearing dress shoes instead of sneakers, black calfskin instead of brown suede, dark worsteds instead of rustic materials like brown corduroy. Maybe a bit of velvet. Think: fancy evening attire.
Many in these situations will feel tempted to ditch the tie, fearing that they'll look overdressed. If you are wearing a dark business suit, I encourage you to not do this. A dark business suit without a tie is like the night sky without stars. It looks sad and defeated.
If you're not going to wear a tie, I encourage you to put more thought into the rest of your outfit. Don't just ditch the tie and assume you look like George Clooney. One solution is to wear a thin merino turtleneck. This looks more thoughtful and stylish.
Another easy solution is to wear a long-sleeve polo, but not like the ones you see at Lacoste or Fred Perry. You want a polo with a collar band, so that the collar stands up better. This will make it behave more like a dress shirt. @ProperCloth sells some nice MTM ones
If a suit feels too formal, then try a sport coat. To me, sport coats lack the elegance of a suit, but they're still a great option for evening events. They are also easier to wear without a tie, as the whole ensemble now looks more casual.
Since this is an evening affair, consider how to make this look elegant. Something like this black/ white houndstooth from Besnard will look better at night than a brown sporting tweed (which, while wonderful, is better for the afternoon).
If you have room in your wardrobe, you can also get a wool-mohair suit (60/40 blend is my preference). Mohair is a stiff, slippery fiber that has a slight sheen. I think it looks amazing under artificial light (dim bars and restaurants). Outfit can be conservative or wild
An easy way to make an outfit look more chic in the evening is to rely on the same color and get your contrast from fiber, texture, or sheen. For example, a navy merino turtleneck can look amazing with a navy suit in hopsack or twill. Again, black shoes in the evening.
If you have the personality for it, you can also pull off something a little more colorful. My friend @toneloki73 here is wearing tartan trousers with a velvet jacket and red turtleneck. The whole outfit feels very celebratory, perfect for drinking cocktails.
The point here is to use history as a guide. Once you know the origins of cocktail attire, you can get a sense of how you should dress. Then use the parameters to express yourself. Aim to create an elegant party outfit. Make the night feel special.
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
In the 19th century, gentlemen wore black frock coats or tailcoats with a white shirt and dark waistcoat. As the frock coat gave way to the suit, the white linen shirt — a mark of respectability and propriety — remained.
For much of the 20th century, this was the standard uniform of the American male that sat at any social station above blue collar. And even then, blue collar people often wore these clothes to churches and weddings.
A couple of weeks ago, Trump struggled with a broken umbrella as he boarded Air Force One.
Let me tell you how we got to this point — and the tragic downfall of the noble umbrella. 🧵
It's hard to imagine now, but it was once controversial for a man to carry an umbrella. The modern umbrella's progenitor, of course, is the parasol, which 18th century French women carried to preserve their light-colored skin (at the time, a mark of class and status).
British men considered the accessory too French, too foreign, and most importantly, too effeminate. That was until 1756, when Jonas Hanway, an upper-class philanthropist, started to carry a waterproofed version around London to protect himself from the rain.
Fall is upon us and soon it will be time for waxed cotton jackets. Let me suggest ways to wear one.
But first, which outfit do you think is more stylish? Choose before opening this thread. 🧵
If you choose the right outfit, then we have the same taste. But why do we like it better? To understand, we must go back to the invention of this fabric itself.
In the 18th century, English sailors repurposed the linseed oil-soaked canvas they used for sails.
These "oilcloths," as they were known, repelled rain and blocked wind, so sailors made them into capes and smocks for sailing on the high sea. But the material was stiff, heavy, and prone to cracking, so the British maritime company Francis Webster & Sons refined the process.
Of these four pairs of shoes, which do you think is the lowest quality?
Make a choice before opening this thread. Then I'll tell you something about shoe quality. 🧵
When it comes to leather shoes, there are broadly two dimensions of quality.
The first and most important is the type of leather. Quality leather shoes will be made from full-grain leather, which shows the natural grain of the hide.
However, not every hide is suited for full grain leather. The animal may have picked up a lot of scars along the course of its life. In such case, the tannery will sand down the surface and apply a chemical coating to produce a consistent finish. This is called corrected grain.
Have you ever noticed that old clothes online sometimes look better than old clothes in your closet?
Why is that? 🧵
It's often said that clothes were better made in the past. This is true to some degree, although the discussion is often narrowly focused on durability.
In this thread, I'll focus on something else: how clothes age, which affects how long you enjoy wearing them.
I'll give you some examples.
A hundred years ago, denim was mostly woven on slow shuttle looms, which produced a narrow-width fabric that was finished with a self-edge (selvedge). This fabric was taken straight off the loom and given to factories.
A couple of years ago, I saw Jesse Watters on Fox News say that Otaa ties are "the best ties in the world."
So I bought one.
Otaa is an Australian neckwear company that has been showing up a lot in American politics. Along with Jesse Watters, they appear to be favored by RFK Jr. and his top deputy, Jim O’Neill.