Most dry cleaners are terrible, so use them infrequently. To clean suits, sport coats, dress pants, and overcoats, brush them out with a garment brush. I use Kent's CC20. No experience with other models, but duck-shaped garment brushes pop up on eBay for like $20
Sweater Shaver
Sweaters pill bc yarns are made from fibers, which eventually break, fly up, and get entangled. To get rid of pills, don't use a sweater comb—you'll cause more breakage. Instead, get a sweater shaver. Try Conair's Fabric Defuzzer ($15) or Steamery's Pilo ($50)
Proper Suit Hanger
Suits, sport coats, and dress outerwear should be hung on special hangers. Otherwise, they can get deformed. The thread below explains why. The Hanger Project sells the best ones. Try Ikea for something more affordable.
Sweaters and knits should be handwashed. To shorten the process, use a gentler no-rinse detergent, such as Soak or Eucalan. Some knitters believe that the lanolin in Eucalan is good for wool.
Garment Bags
Garments should be stored in garment bags during the off-season to protect them from moths. The caveat: you want to find something made from pure cotton, as plastics can off-gas and yellow over time. The Container Store sells them for about $20.
Shoe Trees
Put shoe trees in leather shoes when ur not wearing them. This prevents the toes from curling up. A Redditor experimented by putting a tree in one boot and not the other for 6 months. Hinged trees are best bc they exert less pressure, but hard to find. Check Woodlore
OxiClean
The only stain remover that works. America's Test Kitchen explains why. Read instructions before using, as Oxiclean is not safe on all fabrics.
Sewing Kit and Seam Ripper
Sometimes a button falls off. Or you need to sew something. Get a sewing kit with different colored threads. Also, use a seam ripper to remove the basting thread on new garments. Super cheap at craft stores, grocery stores, or online.
Baby Powder
Want to see a trick? You can sometimes remove light oil stains by sprinkling a bit of baby powder on them, letting the powder soak up the oils overnight, and then brushing it clean the next morning. I use Johnson's. Super cheap at a grocery store.
Snag Nab-It
An amazing tool that can pull snags to the reverse side of fabric. I've used it on sweaters and flannels. Be careful with fine fabrics like silks. For those, you'll want to thread a needle and pull it through, letting the thread drag the snag to the reverse.
Basic Shoe Care Supplies
Get a shoe horn, so you're not crushing your shoe's heel counter. Leather conditioner to keep full grain leathers supple (apply once every couple of years). Shoe polish and wax, a dauber for application, and a shoe brush. (Ignore sweater shaver in pic)
Sneaker Cleaner
Jason Markk sells a great sneaker cleaner that's gentle on all materials. In the photo below, you can see two shoes: the right has been cleaned with a Jason Markk cleaner, and the left has not. See the difference in dinginess? The kit is like $18.
Mesh Laundry Bags
Mesh laundry bags will make the laundry cycle gentler on clothes. Not just for delicates but t-shirts too, where the mechanical motion can stretch out the collar. iDesign sells some with durable plastic pulls that won't break. About $5 on Amazon.
Drying Rack
Finally, a drying rack. Machine dryers can be harsh on clothes, prematurely aging the fabric. If you have space in your home, use a drying rack instead. Oxo also sells specially designed drying racks for sweaters, which should be laid flat to dry (not hung!)
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Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.
In 1999, a group of Haitians were tired of political disorder and dreamed of a better life in the United States. So they built a small, 23-foot boat by hand using pine trees, scrap wood, and used nails. They called the boat "Believe in God." 🧵
In a boat powered by nothing but a sail, they somehow made it from Tortuga Island to the Bahamas (about a 90 mile distance). Then from the Bahamas, they set sail again. But a few days and some hundred miles later, their makeshift boat began to sink.
The men on the boat were so dehydrated this point, one slipped in and out of consciousness, unable to stand. They were all resigned to their death.
Luckily, they were rescued at the last minute by the US Coast Guard.
After this post went viral, I called Caroline Groves, a world-class bespoke shoemaker, to discuss how women's shoes are made. I normally don't talk about womenswear, but I found the information interesting, so I thought I would share what I learned here. 🧵
Footwear is broadly broken into two categories: bespoke and ready-to-wear. In London, bespoke makers, including those for women, are largely focused on traditional styles, such as wingtip derbies and loafers. Emiko Matsuda is great for this.
In Paris, there's Massaro, a historic firm that has been operating since 1894, now owned by Chanel. Their designs are less about creating the women's equivalent of traditional men's footwear and more about things such as heels or creative styles. Aesthetic is still "traditional."
Earlier today, Roger Stone announced his partnership with a menswear company, where together they've released a collection of tailored clothing items.
Here is my review of those pieces. 🧵
The line is mostly comprised of suits and sport coats, supplemented with dress shirts and one pair of odd trousers (tailor-speak for a pair of pants made without a matching jacket). Suits start at $1,540; sport coats are $1,150. One suit is $5,400 bc it's made from Scabal fabric
Let's start with the good points. These are fully canvassed jackets, meaning a free floating canvas has been tacked onto the face fabric to give it some weight and structure. This is better than a half-canvas and fully fused construction, but requires more time and labor.