derek guy Profile picture
Dec 22, 2023 11 tweets 8 min read Read on X
Something I dislike about all these "how to improve your wardrobe" articles is that they give you a generic cookie-cutter shopping list. This is a terrible way to build a wardrobe because it just swaps out one generic thing for another. It's much better to: 🧵

sfstandard.com/2023/12/20/san…
1. Develop an eye for what fits

A lot of people confuse "fit" with "silhouette." Just because something is baggy doesn't mean it doesn't fit. "Fit" is much more useful when it's narrowly defined, such as collar gaps, pulling at the waist, hip pockets that flare, etc.
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2. Think About Silhouettes

Think of clothing as shapes, and figure out what kind of shapes you want to wear on your body. There are lots of possible shapes: carrot-cut trousers, straight trousers, rounded tops, elongating coats, wide shoulders, etc.

🔗: tinyurl.com/35yx8dmn



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3. Think of Clothing as a Cultural Language

Don't just combine random things. Think of what your outfit conveys in terms of cultural language. Do you like traditional tailoring, workwear, minimalism, maximalism, or avant-garde? What cultural histories do these draw from?

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When you think of clothing as a cultural language, it's much easier to figure out what to wear. For example, my friend @Barima_ON wears wild colors. But it's not just a mish-mash of random stuff. It draws from eras like the London peacock revolution. Outfit has cultural meaning
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In the original article, they have you swap one generic outfit for another generic outfit. In five years, they'll tell you to switch it again. You may not end up liking the clothes because: 1) they may not fit or flatter; 2) they may not feel like "you."


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Guys never look stylish when they do this because it just looks like they bought their wardrobe through a clothing subscription service. Here's Colbert in a sleek bomber, luxurious joggers, and minimalist sneakers. The outfit doesn't fit his "vibe." Image
Finding your aesthetic requires some experimentation, but it's not just buying into a cookie-cutter shopping list. Here are four great outfits with very different vibes/ aesthetics, but they all look great because they fit the person. Image
Years ago, I interviewed Keri Langerman, a costume designer who worked on Moonrise Kingdom. IMO, it helps to think like a costume designer, as they understand the communicative power of clothing. She gave some tips on how to do this here:

🔗: tinyurl.com/mrxjnub2
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This can all sound very daunting, as it's like learning a new language. But it's better than going on this endless cycle of updating your wardrobe with clothes you don't love. Some other useful articles:

🔗 Some things that can help you get started: tinyurl.com/3pt3s83t
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🔗 How to develop good taste:

🔗 How to judge quality in clothing:

🔗 How to think about color:

🔗 A guide on how to get started:

🔗 Other useful posts: tinyurl.com/mt6jhs6c
tinyurl.com/yc424cbx
tinyurl.com/46pvm37f
tinyurl.com/4b59x9tm
tinyurl.com/57etzujv
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More from @dieworkwear

Aug 3
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.

Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.

IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.

Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
Read 5 tweets
Aug 2
I've had enough.

In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.

This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵 Image
I should state two things at the outset.

First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide. Image
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Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste. Image
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Read 23 tweets
Jul 31
Sometimes I think about the closure of G. Lorenzi, a Milanese gentleman's shop that had been around for almost 100 years until their closure in 2014. The shop was special because it carried so many one-of-a-kind items from artisans — total handmade craft production, not factory. Image
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At the time of their closure, they still carried over 20,000 items of 3,000 models, including speciality knives, picnic sets, and nutcrackers. They had over 100 styles of nail clippers and 300 different hairbrushes alone. Proprietor Aldo Lorenzi scoured the world for artisans. Image
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There's nothing wrong with factory production. But as more of our lives get taken over by machines — including art and writing — this sort of production feels special.

Trailer for "A Knife Life," a documentary about the store by my friend Gianluca Migliarotti, available on Vimeo
Read 4 tweets
Jul 30
I spent 15 yrs on a menswear forum. The longest argument I had was over a tiny detail that can be seen in this photo. For 6 months, I argued with the same five guys non-stop every day. The argument got so heated the forum owner banned one guy for life.

Here is the detail. 🧵
As I've mentioned before, there's a lot of coded language in menswear. Navy suits can be worn with black oxfords because this was the uniform of London businessmen. Brown tweeds go with brogues because these clothes were worn in the country. In this way, we get formal vs. casual. Image
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The same is true for shoes. Tiny details come together to communicate something, much like how words form a sentence. Black is more formal than brown; calfskin more formal than suede or pebble grain; plain design is more formal than broguing. All of this stems from history. Image
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Read 20 tweets
Jul 27
How are Trump's economic policies impacting you?

Let me give you a hard example. 🧵 Image
The year is 2024 and you're browsing for a new shirt online. You come across a store selling shirts from Portuguese Flannel. You do your research and find they make quality garments: clean single-needle stitching, flat felled seams, quality fabrics, MOP buttons, classic designs Image
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So you go ahead and purchase one. The shop charges 139 Euros and throws in free shipping. Given the exchange rate in 2024, that means you paid $163.19.

It arrives and fits well. You are happy. Image
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Read 13 tweets
Jul 25
You should never follow any of these color charts. They are all stupid.

I'll show you why. 🧵
First, let's do an experiment. Here are two relatively similar outfits: a blue shirt with a pair of dark blue jeans.

Which do you like better? Reply to this tweet with your answer. This way, people can see how the majority of people "voted." Image
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If you said the right, then we have the same taste. This is despite the outfit on the left following this exact guide — and the outfit on the right not appearing in the guide at all.

So why do we like the other outfit better? Image
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Read 18 tweets

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