The Warp Core Fandelier Maxx Build Thread is here!
Just cleaned it, upgraded the filter and took pics the whole way. So follow along here if you want to know how to build a ~200+ CADR HEPA and VOC filter that’s quiet, powerful, effective, unique and special looking to boot.
Here’s the parts list and an Amazon shopping list you can use to find everything.
Here it is in all its beauty. You have the parts, it’s time to build. It’s simple: everything is stacked on the supporting rods and the wires are hidden in the middle. Let’s gooo…
Decided to use pics not vid for this. Build and rebuild are the same, so here it is dirty. Dust accumulates regardless so blow everything out. Get an electronic blower, gamechanger for this. Top fan gets dirtiest slicing through falling particles. Has been on hi 24/7 for 3 months
More dirty disassembling. You can see the 3 fan stack w finger guards on both sides. There’s 2 of those stacks. Filter is really loaded, and any tiny gaps will allow dust over time. I need to seal it better w glue
Blow out all fans until they look new. They get cleaner as you go down the stack (gravity). Then prepare the new filter by ringing it with 1/4”x1/4” weatherstripping. Ring should be OUTER edge, I messed up at first, double not nec. Leave a notch for wires.
Stacking time!
Prepare the rods with screws and feet. Screw location will help even out the tops of the rods at the end but start with same level. Make a 3 stack, making sure to align fan direction and wires. Drop finger guard onto feet as shown, guard ALWAYS flares AWAY frm fan
Make the first 3 fan stack. Guard, fan, fan, fan, guard. Shimmy each down carefully and slowly. If you bend the rods they can be straightened but avoid. Always be sure wires and orientation are right; these fans blow downwards. Wires connect to 3 way splitter and 2 way power
Feed the power wires into the bottom of the filter and place the filter between the rods, pulling the wire through. Connect the 3 way to the power, and feed the barrel connector back out the bottom of the filter where other wires enter (next post)
Barrel tail should come out the bottom and 2nd 3-way fan splitter wire connects to barrel wire and sticks out of finger guard, on R of rod (I did L in pic sorry). Goal is all wires together inline in stack, for clean look. Almost done
Drop last fan, connect wires, and lift stack to tuck wires into filter cavity. Guards help keep wires out of fans but still need wires smushed towards center of column. Avoiding/addressing fan scrape comes at startup
Last guard goes on n thumbscrews tightened WITH Fan low POWER so you can catch fan scraping and fix it (move wires around) before it is a prob. Tighten it down hard on all sides so gaps squeeze out. Use more weatherstripping in small gaps if need. Adjust bottom nut if rods uneven
Closing the LED holes on the black fans with some glue should help with dust, and just generally a good idea. Thanks for following along and I hope you enjoy your WARP CORE FANDELIER MAXX!
This thread explains my choice of filter, the Trusens Odor / VOC Large. The best filter I’ve been able to find for the task. It’s why this works so well once it’s running.
Forgot to say this upper stack airflow point UP, but you already knew that. Opposite of bottom stack orientation.
Here it is in #fandelier configuration, hanging by a single wire attached to either end of one rod. Serious air cleaning power for safer dinners with friends. (After testing and with windows/doors open too natch)
Trusens sells Odor/VOC bundles with 1 HEPA internal ring and 4 replacement Carbon outer rings, reflects probable faster utilization of the carbon layer in use
They claim 3-4 months for carbon and 12-15 months for hepa but now way. I’d say 3 months on hi 24/7 and it’ll be time for replacing both layers. I’ll report back if carbon quits first.
For $ compare:
Trusens Z3500 is their largest model n it uses this same filter. It’s $279, more than my parts list. It’s MUCH LOUDER (check out the sound video above from their smaller unit) n much bigger for same 200 CADR
I don’t get paid at all for this fyi but I will note that currently there is a 24% off sale for the specific filter I recommend. A few months ago it was 60% off on Black Friday, so they do run decent sales
Just checked latest Amazon prices for the items on my list to make the 120v design and it’s $240 with the standard HEPA or $280 with the extra carbon Odor/VOC filter. ($279 Z3500 price is w standard HEPA)
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I’m in the middle of the LA firestorms so I’ve tried to get more prepared. Wanted the fastest, easiest “firehose” I could get without a plumber. I learned a lot so I want to share it with y’all. It’s much easier than it sounds! A 🧵
Actual fire hoses are 1”-5” and need special plumbing.
The goal here is to get maximum performance from your existing garden tap.
Garden Hose Thread GHT is 3/4”, but garden hoses have internal diameters of 1/2”, 5/8” and 3/4”.
So for a firehose garden hose, everything needs to be 3/4” with no choke points. That’s the feed, hose, valve and nozzle are all specifically 3/4”. You can just buy the last 3, but the feed has to be big enough to begin.
This is the HEPA filter. It’s $9 but gotta buy 2 for $18. It’s exactly the size of the 120mm fan. All we are going to do is tape it in place. Everything else you need is in the quoted thread in the OP a.co/d/1rB3red
The fan pulls through carbon, then HEPA for all particulates/virus but also to stop carbon dust. The HEPA has a carbon layer of its own which won’t do much but the fan is much quieter placed against the carbon side of the hepa. Either direction works tho, if the filter is new.
A thread about one of the best CC lifestyle things I got: an outdoor heat lamp.
Having the ability to really blast heat outside has meant many friends/family visits at temps 2 cold for outdoors were totally enjoyable. But not just any work well…🧵
First of all, forget electricity. Plug-in 120v electric heaters top out at 5000 BTUs of heat. Patio heaters running on gas put out 10x or 50,000 btus. For heating the outdoors w friends you want as many btus as you can get. It’s gotta be gas.
The 3 main types I’ve tried: standard like in the first pic, quartz tube pyramid and fireplace style. All 50k btu. Standard works best by far to focus the heat onto the people. The others look cooler and ARE cooler. Cheap or expensive standard patio heater is the way to go
Making this thread I found what could be the best VOC removal solution for many people: a small grow carbon filter w a built in fan for $39! Had to order it and try it for y’all.
Alas, it’s cute AF and LOUD AF.
67db on high, 52db on lowest. (The MegaVOC is 41db on high) 🧵
On low it’s too loud for bedroom, on high it’s too loud for anything occupied. To get high cfm from small fans you need higher RPM and much more noise than a larger fan. For normal home applications, quieter is better and a bit o DIY using larger PC fans is the path
That said, for zero effort and very low cost it’s a phenomenal smell and VOC removal tool. I’d just run it when rooms are unoccupied.
I’ve read a few new articles about humidifiers that sound good but end up with bad advice.
For clean air, the best solution is an EVAPORATIVE Humidifier with bacteriostatic solution added to the tank.
Any other kind is risky IME/HO and I’ll explain. 🧵
To start: all humidifiers are fairly high maintenance. They need to be filled and cleaned every few days. There is no way to avoid that. But it’s worth it for the best indoor air. If you have HEPA and carbon already in place it’s the finishing touch. Helps fight COVID too.
Ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers put *everything* that’s in the water into the air. Minerals, vocs and bacteria. Ideally, but unlikely, you use distilled water, which is expensive at this scale (gallon per day or more). And bacteria grow fast, then enter the air. NO!