Here’s the Micro Core. Fan, filter, usb fan adapter, usb plug. Legs are random bits I had, and optional.
The Maxx Core would be the same but the fan is RGB so there’s an added wire for that, made of a USB to sata adapter and an RGB fan controller. Most won’t want RGB, but that’s what I have so I used it. Otherwise, same elements as Micro Core.
Trying a dense mesh guard to really stop stuff from entering and rubber screws holding it together and centering it but collapsible for packing. Also got the updated USB to 12V fan adapter w Speed control and it works great, dials all way down and still spins very slowly, new fav
The new adapter
Delinx 8W DC 12V PC Cooling Fan Speed Control,USB to Dual 3-Pin 4-Pin Fan Power Adapter Cable,DC 5V Step up 5-12V Adjustable,with 2-Way Splitter Cable a.co/d/fcW6YhH
You can see in the pics above that the new adapter has a ton more wiring than the older, simpler USB to 12V clearly visible in the Micro Core parts pic. So if you don’t need speed control, and are ok with max cfm always, use the older, shorter cable style for better transport
That said I dialed down the Maxx Core n it’s still pushing out plenty of air but totally silent from a few feet away. Very cool. Likely more of a benefit on the Maxx with these fans, but a high cfm 140mm will welcome speed control at bedtime.
Here’s the 140mm SS Air Penetrator in case anyone wants it. As I said, you can use almost any 140mm for the Micro but this has the best built in finger guard, solid build, medium cfm at 63, quiet 30db rating.
At $18 the SS140i slightly higher than the cheapest 140mms ($10-15) but you save by not needing to buy a guard so it’s the same or a bit cheaper.
Thermaltake Pure A14 if you want it to glow w easy LED like a nightlight 96cfm (no Rgb, no 5v, $15) a.co/d/3htSE9n
For MAX CFM, consider Iceberg IceGale Xtra for 169cfm ($10, def use speed control!). sure it’s loud AF but you can dial down and only use banshee mode when really needed. Crazy low price! Pair with basic Trusens small HEPA@$25, cheapest, highest CFM path a.co/d/3wXuhLV
This dense guard destroys cfms. Unfortunately not usable.
Tried it with this too but has to go old school wire, w long rubber screws. Thermaltake Pure A14 93cfm 2mm 32db w led. LED dims with speed control setting
Here’s how they can serve as nightlights too if that’s useful. The thermaltake is $15 and doesn’t need 5v it just lights up w normal fan connection, white led. Comes in red and blue too. Maxx is an RGB fan set to white
These are the rubber screws I’ve found best for the job. It will hold the finger guard in place, make it easier to center/keep in place, and they just fold up if put in a bag etc. I guess they are silicone not rubber. These are the longest version a.co/d/ftp9gXm
The rubber screws in action
New Turbine finger guard just dropped. F yeah! $8 for 1, same price as 2 wire guards. But you only need one, and this is much cooler. Might block flow a bit more but worth it IMHO. Love how it deletes the center sticker of the fan
The filters used in this thread are the Small and Large TruSens Odor & VOC filters. There are frequent sales, on Amazon and the Trusens site. It’s my favorite because it has a truly usable amount of carbon along w hepa
I’m in the middle of the LA firestorms so I’ve tried to get more prepared. Wanted the fastest, easiest “firehose” I could get without a plumber. I learned a lot so I want to share it with y’all. It’s much easier than it sounds! A 🧵
Actual fire hoses are 1”-5” and need special plumbing.
The goal here is to get maximum performance from your existing garden tap.
Garden Hose Thread GHT is 3/4”, but garden hoses have internal diameters of 1/2”, 5/8” and 3/4”.
So for a firehose garden hose, everything needs to be 3/4” with no choke points. That’s the feed, hose, valve and nozzle are all specifically 3/4”. You can just buy the last 3, but the feed has to be big enough to begin.
This is the HEPA filter. It’s $9 but gotta buy 2 for $18. It’s exactly the size of the 120mm fan. All we are going to do is tape it in place. Everything else you need is in the quoted thread in the OP a.co/d/1rB3red
The fan pulls through carbon, then HEPA for all particulates/virus but also to stop carbon dust. The HEPA has a carbon layer of its own which won’t do much but the fan is much quieter placed against the carbon side of the hepa. Either direction works tho, if the filter is new.
A thread about one of the best CC lifestyle things I got: an outdoor heat lamp.
Having the ability to really blast heat outside has meant many friends/family visits at temps 2 cold for outdoors were totally enjoyable. But not just any work well…🧵
First of all, forget electricity. Plug-in 120v electric heaters top out at 5000 BTUs of heat. Patio heaters running on gas put out 10x or 50,000 btus. For heating the outdoors w friends you want as many btus as you can get. It’s gotta be gas.
The 3 main types I’ve tried: standard like in the first pic, quartz tube pyramid and fireplace style. All 50k btu. Standard works best by far to focus the heat onto the people. The others look cooler and ARE cooler. Cheap or expensive standard patio heater is the way to go
Making this thread I found what could be the best VOC removal solution for many people: a small grow carbon filter w a built in fan for $39! Had to order it and try it for y’all.
Alas, it’s cute AF and LOUD AF.
67db on high, 52db on lowest. (The MegaVOC is 41db on high) 🧵
On low it’s too loud for bedroom, on high it’s too loud for anything occupied. To get high cfm from small fans you need higher RPM and much more noise than a larger fan. For normal home applications, quieter is better and a bit o DIY using larger PC fans is the path
That said, for zero effort and very low cost it’s a phenomenal smell and VOC removal tool. I’d just run it when rooms are unoccupied.
I’ve read a few new articles about humidifiers that sound good but end up with bad advice.
For clean air, the best solution is an EVAPORATIVE Humidifier with bacteriostatic solution added to the tank.
Any other kind is risky IME/HO and I’ll explain. 🧵
To start: all humidifiers are fairly high maintenance. They need to be filled and cleaned every few days. There is no way to avoid that. But it’s worth it for the best indoor air. If you have HEPA and carbon already in place it’s the finishing touch. Helps fight COVID too.
Ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers put *everything* that’s in the water into the air. Minerals, vocs and bacteria. Ideally, but unlikely, you use distilled water, which is expensive at this scale (gallon per day or more). And bacteria grow fast, then enter the air. NO!