derek guy Profile picture
Feb 17, 2024 14 tweets 6 min read Read on X
To answer people's questions in this thread: the reason why belts and shoes should generally match, especially in tailored outfits, is because no single item should be distracting. 🧵
The focus of a tailored outfit should be the V-shaped section formed by the shirt, jacket, and tie. This was as true generations ago as it is today. This area should lead the viewer's eye up to your face, so the focus is on you, not some random thing in your outfit.
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This is why it's hard to wear things such as unusually colored shoes or patterned trousers (in the context of tailored clothing). Such items drag the eye downward.
This is also why tan shoes shouldn't be worn with dark suits. They shine out like flashlights from under your trousers. Tan shoes should be kept to light-colored suits and sport coats, or certain summer outfits.

When tan shoes are worn well, the belt should match. Image
A belt occupies the center of our body, so it can be very conspicuous if it doesn't harmonize with the rest of your outfit. Image
As a general rule of thumb, the color of your belt should be roughly in the neighborhood of your shoes. That means black with black, mid-brown with mid-brown, light brown with light brown, and so forth.
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This is also generally true of casual clothing.
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Compare these two outfits. The outfit on the right is more harmonious, so you end up focusing on the person. Eric's outfit combines non-matching shoes and belt (and tan shoes with a dark suit). It feels like he plucked things at random. Image
Similarly, compare Trump with his sons. Trump's outfit is harmonious. Don Jr is wearing tan shoes with a dark suit, so his feet make him look like Donald Duck. Eric is again looking like he plucked things at random, as there's no harmony between the belt and shoes. Image
The concept of harmony extends to other things. A dressy outfit calls for a thinner belt (1.25" inches or thinner), often finished with a thin buckle. A workwear outfit calls for wider belt (1.5") finished with a thicker buckle.
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Or maybe you have a Westernwear outfit. In which case, you will want a Westernwear belt.
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Sometimes, the belt doesn't need to match the shoes, such as when you're wearing sneakers. In that case, go off the other dimensions of the outfit: a casual belt paired with a casual outfit. Or a leather color that picks up some other leather item.
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Choosing a belt requires being able to coordinate color, formality, and style. The casual outfit on the left has a wider 1.5" O-ring belt with a Southwestern cardigan, five-pocket pants, and roper boots. Dressy outfit on the right has a thin 1.25" belt. Belt/ shoe colors match.
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By coincidence, my friend Mark at The Armoury recently filmed a video on how to choose a good belt (it was filmed on Chinese New Year, so he's wearing a red sport coat). My only quibble is that I think fine dress belts are dressier with stitched edges.

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More from @dieworkwear

May 20
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵
My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this. Image
I disagree with this perspective because they always seem to be about forcing the person into one narrow ideal. So if you're short, they tell you how to wear certain things to give the illusion of height. Or if you're heavy, they say how you can dress to hide your weight. Image
Read 21 tweets
May 20
I don't think people such as Hegesth are intentionally choosing to dress like this to signal they're "not like the swamp." I think we're simply in a generational change in terms of taste. Will show some examples. 🧵
A hundred years ago, men's dress was governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social position and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear certain outfits. If you didn't know these rules, a tailor would tell you. Image
Over the course of the 20th century, these rules loosened, partly because society became more accepting of different social groups and their lifestyles (which is a good thing). By the close of the 20th century, the rise of business casual swept tailoring out of offices Image
Read 20 tweets
May 15
Anthony Constantino, CEO of Sticker Mule, says that he would use a US manufacturer for his company's t-shirts. However, he feels the US company doesn't meet his quality standards and they "must maintain quality."

So what constitutes a quality t-shirt? Let's find out. 🧵
For reference, I'm comparing Sticker Mule's t-shirts (made in Nicaragua) to Bayside Apparel (fully made in the US from fiber to finish). Sticker Mule charges $19 for their t-shirts. Organizations that print on Bayside blanks sell their merch for $27. Image
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I should state at the outset that to properly determine quality, I would need to send these t-shirts to a lab, which I'm unable to do because I don't own a Sticker Mule t-shirt. Additionally, quality can be subjective, as it depends on your preferences.
Read 20 tweets
May 10
It's very hard to find a suit jacket that can be worn with jeans, assuming you mean the kind of suits that would be worn for business. Let me show you. 🧵
What do we mean by "suit?" The term suit simply means that the jacket and pants were cut from the same cloth. You can have corduroy suits or linen suits. But when most people say suit, they mean the kind of outfits that would be worn for business, funerals, and court. Image
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Such materials are typically dark in color and slick in feel. Historically, men wore these things with white dress shirts, dark ties, and black oxford shoes to do business in London. This history is why this outfit telegraphs "I'm here for serious business." Image
Read 12 tweets
May 9
I disagree. In this thread, I will tell you what's wrong with Stephen Miller's outfits. Hopefully, this will help you judge whether a suit fits when you're shopping for one. 🧵 Image
For context, here is the video that @FischerKing64 is responding to. Can you spot the issue with this suit?
It appears that Miller has spent a considerable sum upgrading his wardrobe since his time in Trump's first administration. I suspect these are all made-to-measure suits because they look new and come in a wide variety of materials. Unfortunately, all of them exhibit a collar gap. Image
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Read 16 tweets
May 7
Sure. I'll give a breakdown of why most people think the right pant is better. 🧵
For reference, the reply is in response to this video, where it appears the majority of people like the right pant better on this person. Why is this?

IG justin__kwan
Most people approach clothing in terms of trends. If skinny or baggy clothes are fashionable at the moment, they go with the crowd. Trends certainly play a role in how we perceive things. Even Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, wore slimmer trousers toward the end of his life. Image
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Read 19 tweets

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