Sizing is not consistent across brands. One company's size 38 might fit like another company's size 40. The best way to approach sizing online is to know your measurements.
Buy a measuring tape. It costs like $2.
Now, measure the clothes in your wardrobe that fit you best. To do this, lay a garment flat and button it. Then, take the following measurements:
- Chest: Armpit to armpit, measured across the front.
- Shoulder: Shoulder seam to shoulder seam, measured across the back.
Length: Center of the back collar seam down to the hem, measured at the back
Sleeve: Some ppl measure from the shoulder seam to the cuff, but I think it's better to measure the center of the back collar to the cuff. Take both measurements.
Despite the above being done on a sport coat, I don't recommend buying suits or sport coats on eBay unless you've tried on that model and know it fits you. Tailoring is very different from casualwear in that small differences in a cut can make a big impact and be hard to alter.
However, you can use the above technique to measure shirts, sweaters, and casual jackets. Use this as a starting point. A good eBay seller should have similar measurements, which you can use to gauge whether something will fit you.
Similarly, for pants, measure:
- Waist: Measured across the top
- Inseam: Crotch seam to hem
- Leg opening: Laid flat, measured across
- Rise: Crotch seam to top of the waistband, measured across the front of the garment
Write all of these numbers down in a notebook.
2. Look for Good Brands
While you shouldn't get too hung up on brands, brands mean something on eBay because this is how clothing is sorted. Consequently, it helps to know some brands that make quality clothing.
I can't possibly list all of these brands for you in a tweet—and, as always, much depends on how you want to dress/ your aesthetic. But as a starting point, you can check out the search links I've created at Put This On. See the intro to this post:
The term Boolean search refers to a certain way of creating queries. Here is an example.
Country of origin tags are not always the most reliable method of judging a garment's quality. But when you're shopping online, sometimes they're helpful.
For instance, Scottish cashmere sweaters are reliably good, presuming you've found something in good condition that fits you. So, to find a Scottish cashmere knit on eBay, input the following search term:
(Scotland, Scottish) cashmere
Click the box for "include description."
The search "(Scotland, Scottish) cashmere" pulls up auctions that fulfill two requirements:
- The title or description has to contain the word Scotland or Scottish
- The title or description has to contain the word cashmere
Use the site's filters on the left-hand side to narrow your search. Since I'm shopping for menswear, I've clicked "men's sweaters." This gives me 848 current auctions for Scottish cashmere knits, including this Murray Allen for $60. I can now compare measurements to gauge size
If you know a bit about menswear, you can use Boolean searches to find things other people may have overlooked. For example, Ralph Lauren is a massive brand with billions of items—some good, some not.
But if you use the search:
"Ralph Lauren" (Italy, England)
And click "include description," and you will pull up everything Ralph Lauren made in Italy or England, which the company typically reserves for the better things in their line.
3. Save Good Sellers
If you find a seller with a lot of inventory, they may be a business. In such cases, save their page if you like their stuff. Just like with good consignment or thrift stores, it pays to check back once in a while.
One of my friends, Matt, runs an eBay auction business called LuxeSwap. I think he's one of the best eBay sellers for high-end menswear. New ten-day auctions go up every Thursday. Do a search for #1 Menswear in his store to find his best stock
There are different eBay sites designated by different national domains. So there's a French eBay, British eBay, etc. Even if these sellers are willing to ship abroad, their auctions may not show up on the eBay site you use most often.
If you are interested in a particular country's style or brands, it may be worth checking their eBay site. For instance, it's easier to find the UK brand Margaret Howell on . Just be aware that returning something to an overseas seller can be difficult. ebay.co.uk
5. Use Auction Snipers
To avoid getting into bidding wars, you can use auction snipers such as Gixen. These services enter a bid for you at the very last second. The downside is that you don't get a second chance if someone outbids you.
Finally, as mentioned above, I round up high-end menswear twice a week for Put This On. These listings are available for free, and we cover everything from tailoring to workwear.
Once a week, we also send out an extra eBay roundup and a list of active store sales to our Inside Track subscribers (subscription costs $5/ month). Basically, if you purchase one thing a year, the savings pays for the subscription.
Shopping on eBay can be a crapshoot. You have to do your research online and be willing to put up with some misses. For instance, when buying shoes, you have to know your size & how that converts to other country sizing (e.g., a size US 9D is an 8E in the UK). *Do your research*
It helps to have a good dry cleaner and alterations tailor who can take care of things for you post-purchase. That all said, there's a lot of good stuff on eBay. Aaron Levine tells me that he almost exclusively shops on eBay, and I think he looks tremendous.
IG aaronplevine
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In the 1950s, Irving Penn traveled across London, Paris, and NYC to take portraits of workers in their work clothes. These clothes at the time were not considered glamorous — they would not have shown up on fashion runways — but they demonstrate a simple aesthetic principle 🧵
Consider these outfits. How do you feel about them? Are they charming? Repulsive? Stylish?
If you consider them charming and stylish, as I do, then ask yourself: what makes them charming and stylish? Why are you drawn to the outfits?
As I've mentioned before, I think outfits look better when they have "shape and drape." By shape, I mean the outfit confers a distinctive silhouette. If these men took off their clothes, we can reliably guess their bodies would not be shaped like this:
If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.
The level of craftsmanship that goes into a lot of Japanese menswear simply doesn't exist in the United States. You can do this for many categories — suits, jeans, hats, etc.
In this thread, I will show you just one category: men's shoes 🧵
For this comparison, I will focus on Japanese bespoke shoemaking vs. US ready-to-wear. The level of bespoke craftsmanship shown here simply doesn't exist in the US, so a Japanese bespoke vs. US bespoke comparison would be unfair. US bespoke is mostly about orthopedic work.
So instead, I will focus on the best that the US has to offer: ready-to-wear Alden.
On a basic level, top-end Japanese shoes are better because they are handwelted, whereas Alden shoes are Goodyear welted. The first involves more handwork and can be resoled more often.