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derek guy

@dieworkwear

Mar 2, 2024 • 6 tweets • 4 min read • Read on X

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https://twitter.com/JeromeJaccard/status/1763891875742687620

For reasons I don't fully understand, the tailoring scene—and really the fashion scene in general—is better in East Asia (and mostly South Korea and Japan) than in the US as a whole. There are more interesting shops, tailors, and shoemakers. Also, there are more hobbyists.

https://twitter.com/JeromeJaccard/status/1763891875742687620

There's also better fashion media. There are tons and tons of really great Japanese fashion magazines that get super nerdy with details. There's literally a magazine purely dedicated to classic leather shoes (called Last). In the US, fashion media is more about celebs.

On tailoring, the suit is also still relevant in places like Tokyo. A guy might be wearing his salaryman suit for a while and then figure "hm, maybe I can get something better" and then visit any number of really great tailoring shops and clothiers who can help him.

For example, if you want a true classic American suit, you should not go to an American shop. You should go to Tokyo and visit Tailor CAID, who knows that style better than any American. Their customers also know how to put that look together better than most Americans.

Outside of NYC, there aren't that many good shops. I also think that dressing well is purely hobbyism, like being into penmanship and fountain pens. This is why I don't think ppl should attach morality to it. For whatever reason, there are a lot of hobbyists in East Asia.

me: i wonder why men in Asia dress better

Americans in my replies every day: clothes are GAY. you are a HOMO. fashion is for MORONS. I'm smarter and more masculine because i dress like CRAP. [a dog in the background slam dunks a basketball while USA fireworks go off]

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More from @dieworkwear

derek guy

@dieworkwear

May 3

https://twitter.com/mattyglesias/status/1918673847152263309

There are lots of misconceptions in the replies to @mattyglesias's post below. Will address some of them in this thread. 🧵

https://twitter.com/mattyglesias/status/1918673847152263309

"We no longer make clothes in the US."

Not true! US-made clothing has always existed. However, the quality stuff struggles because people are often not willing to pay what it costs to produce these items. These items will only get more expensive with tariffs, not less.

"Tariffs will get rid of cheap, crappy clothing."

Also not true! The US makes a lot of cheap, crappy clothing, some even in sweatshops. This system is made possible because US garment factories run on the piece-rate system, where workers are paid per operation, not time.

Read 11 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

May 1

I can answer this question.

Here's how these tariffs can affect the average American. 🧵

Although tailoring has mostly receded from daily life, it continues to be the expected uniform for some of life's most important moments, such as weddings and funerals.

Unfortunately, since these moments are few and far between, that means most cities don't have good tailoring shops. I often get emails asking: "Where can I get a suit for cheap?" Or "I'm an unusual size, where can I find a suit?" This is where online shopping comes in.

Read 13 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 26

https://twitter.com/Old_School_3D/status/1916182373475004829

This is true. Here are some things you can wear to a funeral. 🧵

https://twitter.com/Old_School_3D/status/1916182373475004829

If someone has died, consider attending the funeral in black tie (also known as a tuxedo in American vernacular). Black, as we know, is the color of mourning, so black tie shows respect for the deceased and their family.

Do a little jump and dance at the funeral, so people can admire how your jacket collar hugs your neck. This demonstrates that you took the time to make sure your tuxedo is well-tailored for this somber occasion. Carry a martini around and toast during the eulogy.

Read 8 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 25

https://twitter.com/DCBrooks/status/1915598834438463784

Here's some basic info that you may not have considered if you're just starting to buy tailored clothing, such as suits, sport coats, and overcoats. 🧵

https://twitter.com/DCBrooks/status/1915598834438463784

When you buy ready-made tailoring, the pockets and vents are often tacked down with stitching—usually white, but not always. This stitching, known as basting, is done so that the garment moves from the factory to your closet while holding its shape.

Before wearing the garment, you'll want to remove this stitching. Especially if there's a label on the sleeve. This label is only there so that people working in the distribution and sales process can easily identify the garment. It's not meant to be worn.

Read 5 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 21

Rumors are going around that Pete Hegseth might be on his way out. I don’t know if that’s true, but just in case, I want to do a thread on his style. To me, Hegseth’s wardrobe reflects a common pitfall guys fall into when they first start caring about clothes. 🧵

When men start dressing with more intention, they often fall into the trap of cranking every knob to 11—volume, gain, treble, bass. The thinking is: more = better. But like in music, maxing out every setting doesn’t lead to clarity—it leads to noise.

We see this in how Hegseth dresses. His belt buckle is USA. Pocket square is USA. Socks are USA. Open up his jacket and what do you see? USA.

Read 21 tweets

derek guy

@dieworkwear

Apr 20

Someone asked me why there aren't any high-end Chinese clothing brands. They are many! In this thread, I'll name a few, as well as answer the question why you may not have heard of them. 🧵

This thread will cover a wide range of aesthetics and business sizes, so that there's something for everyone. The first is Zhu Chongyun, a chic womenswear label that combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with contemporary design.

Their ad campaigns are highly stylized for marketing purposes, but when you look at their runway presentations, you can see how their clothes are very wearable. A bit minimalist in tone and sculptural in terms of silhouette. Very refined and chic.