derek guy Profile picture
Apr 2 11 tweets 6 min read Read on X
To me, Ralph is above the law, so even if I don't care for many of his outfits, I think he's beyond reproach because he's Ralph Lauren. But I'll explain why DeSantis' outfit doesn't work with chinos. 🧵
As mentioned in another thread, when people think of tailoring today, they often think of these suits they see at the mall. These dark worsted suits are what you wear for weddings, funerals, and court appearances. Image
The term "dark worsted" here refers to these smooth, silky wool fabrics, which sometimes have a bit of sheen. These fabrics should be reserved for suits, which means the jacket should be worn with matching pants.
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However, there are more casual fabrics. They can be casual bc of fiber (e.g., linen is more casual than wool); texture (e.g., tweed is more casual than silky wool); pattern (e.g., larger patterns are more casual than fine patterns); color (e.g., brown is more casual than black)
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DeSantis here is clearly wearing a suit jacket. You can tell bc the fabric is very smooth, silky, and shiny. Jacket also has tonal buttons, flapped hip pockets, and no edge stitching. These on their own aren't a big deal, but together they form a sentence that says "business"
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What he needs is a more casual jacket (a sport coat). The most important element here is fabric. A navy jacket with more texture would have swung this more into sport coat territory, allowing it to be easily worn on its own. Zoom in and see how this fabric is matte and textured
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Other things could have swung it more into sport coat territory. In the first photo, we see someone wearing a jacket with contrasting buttons (here being metal). In the second photo, we see a lapel with a swelled edge and patch pockets. These are both very obviously sport coats
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The second problem is his trousers. Setting aside the wrinkles around his lap, these chinos are double-needle sewn, which results in the puckering you see along the inseam and cuff. This makes them very casual, more at home with trucker jackets than tailored jackets.
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What he needs are single-needle chinos, which are basically pants built like wool trousers, except they're made from cotton. This particular pair has not yet been hemmed, but a proper tailor will know that these should be hemmed like dress pants, not casual pants. No puckering.
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The higher rise, clean cut, single needle sewing here will make the cotton trousers look more dressy, bridging the gap between the formality of the tailored jacket and the casualness of the pants. You want to aim for coherence.
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The problem with DeSantis' outfit is that it's too dressy up top (this is a suit jacket, not a sport coat) and too casual down bottom (the most casual iteration of chinos). He needs a more casual jacket (a sport coat) and dressier chinos. These details make all the difference.
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More from @dieworkwear

Apr 17
You've heard of the King of Spain, now get ready for the Duke of Huéscar. 🧵 Image
Fernando Fitz-James Stuart, 17th Duke of Huéscar, might be the second most stylish living royal (after the King of Spain). Let's explore what makes his style so great. And how some of these things can apply to your own wardrobe (I promise, you don't need to be an aristocrat). Image
Let's start with the basics. First, his jacket's collar always hugs his neck. When shopping for a suit jacket or sport coat, you always want to make sure the collar stays seated on your neck, even when you move around. A collar gap is hard to fix via alterations.
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Read 25 tweets
Apr 15
Let's talk about shirt monograms. 🧵
We should first start with some definitions. Technically speaking, these are not monograms.
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A monogram is a motif where two or more letters are interlaced in such a way that you can't remove one letter without distorting the others. Here is a SAB monogram where the S forms the crossbar on the A and B. If you removed the letters S, A, or B, the symbol would lose meaning Image
Read 19 tweets
Apr 14
The jacket is pretty good in that there's minimal waist pulling, and the collar hugs his neck even as he moves his arms. The main issue is that the sleeves are too slim, causing them to catch on his arms. Compare this to the second pic, where sleeves drape cleanly.
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If I were in charge of his fitting, I would also shorten both the shirt and jacket sleeves so they don't look like they're enveloping his hand. The slimness of his jacket sleeve is also causing the French cuff to push out against the jacket. Not ideal
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Read 13 tweets
Apr 12
NYC, 1930s (colorized)

Have you ever felt that the average person dressed better in the past? IMO, the reason has nothing to do with respectability, body shape, or even suits.

It has to do with the loss of what I call "shape and drape." 🧵
Let's start with some definitions. The term shape refers to silhouette, which is the shape of our clothes when we remove all the details (i.e., the outfit's outline). Notice that Hepburn's outfits have a distinctive shape that's not just her human form.
In this thread, the term "drape" refers to how the fabric hangs and moves. In most cases—although not always—you want the fabric to hang cleanly, that is, without puckering, pulling, or wrinkling (although later, we'll see this is complicated). Drape also refers to movement.
Read 25 tweets
Apr 10
I will tell you what I notice. 🧵 Image
Most people would not describe Trump as someone who wears slim-fit clothes. But here, we can see his trousers are quite slim in relationship to his body. You can tell because the hem barely covers the opening of his shoes.
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If you're a heavier man who wears a suit with slim-fit trousers, you end up breaking the top and bottom halves into distinct blocks. Notice how much the jacket hangs over the trousers. There's a lot of empty space between the jacket's front edge and his pants.
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Read 8 tweets
Apr 7
Aside from the fact that this guy sells online courses on how to get rich, I will explain why it's obvious from his clothes that he's not an aristocrat but rather a middle-class striver. 🧵
When I use the term "aristocrat," I'm referring to the ruling class in Europe with hereditary rank and titles. For the sake of this thread, I will mostly focus on Britain in the 19th and 20th centuries, as that's where we get most of our norms regarding classic men's style. Image
For much of history, men had their clothes made by tailors or women in their homes. Ready-made clothing was limited to slaves, miners, and sailors. That was until the mid-19th century, when ready-made clothes and shoes started coming out of the industrial revolution. Image
Read 22 tweets

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