In this thread, I will talk about some dos and don'ts of men's tailoring using one of my favorite style icons, George Costanza. 🧵
1. Don't wear suit jackets by themselves
If you do, make sure the jacket can convincingly pass as a sport coat. DeSantis' is obvs wearing a suit jacket bc the fabric is smooth and shiny. George is wearing a slightly textured jacket with brass buttons (making it a blazer).
2. Formal suits should be worn with ties
By formal suit, I mean something you'd wear to a business meeting. Navy or grey, made from a smooth, sometimes shiny wool. These really benefit from having a bit of decoration between the jacket's front edges.
3. Always tuck in your shirt
Casual outfits can go either way, depending on the outfit and the shirt. But outfits that involve traditional tailoring don't look right with an untucked shirt, even in casual iterations such as with chinos or jeans.
4. Don't wear jackets that are too tight
A lot of guys nowadays are wearing jackets that are too small for them. You can check this in a few ways. First, see if you can comfortably fasten the coat. Second, see if you can comfortably hug someone. Should have room for movement.
5. Beware of low-rise trousers
Low-rise pants can work in some aesthetics, but they are rarely good for tailoring. This is partly because you never want your shirt to show beneath the coat's buttoning point when your coat is fastened. Consider high-rise pants—trust me.
6. Don't wear shirts that are too slim
Again, there should be room for movement. An easy way to see if your shirt is too small is to look for lines where the fabric is pulling, especially across the placket. George's shirt here is perfect.
7. Dark top; light bottom
While not a hard rule, you will have more success if you buy dark jackets and light pants. Black or charcoal trousers can be hard to wear in a classic tailored look. Stick to trousers in light grey, mid-gray, and tan, then jackets in brown and navy
8. Beware of collar gaps
A tailored jacket's collar should always hug your neck, even when you're moving. When shopping, if you see the collar lifting off your neck, move on.
9. Check for balance
When trying on a jacket, check to see if the jacket hangs evenly from front to back. Tailors call this "balance." The front can be lower or level with the back, but it should never be higher than the back. This can be a challenge for barrel-chested guys.
10. Don't wear black dress shirts
Especially in dressy materials like a very smooth poplin. If you want to wear a black button-up, try a casual material like a black denim Western shirt or needlecord. Or better yet, a knit like George here. It's more tasteful.
If you enjoyed these looks, it's perhaps worth pointing out that they appeared on television nearly thirty years ago. The fact that George Costanza remains a style icon is a testament to the timelessness of these guidelines. Ignore them at your peril.
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Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.
Which do you think looks better?
If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better?
The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole.
On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.
Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.
IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted
Extremely long, but if you want to hear it, Josh breaks down the challenges he's facing. I hear similar stories in menswear (e.g., 3sixteen needing to import the best denim, which comes from Japan). All this now faces tariffs.
Glad I bought a Sebenza in MagnaCut before all this.
In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.
This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵
I should state two things at the outset.
First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide.
Second, while clothing quality matters, it's more important to develop a sense of taste. Buying clothes isn't like shopping for electronics — you don't "max out" specs. It's more like buying coffee — you sample around and identify what notes you like. Develop taste.
Sometimes I think about the closure of G. Lorenzi, a Milanese gentleman's shop that had been around for almost 100 years until their closure in 2014. The shop was special because it carried so many one-of-a-kind items from artisans — total handmade craft production, not factory.
At the time of their closure, they still carried over 20,000 items of 3,000 models, including speciality knives, picnic sets, and nutcrackers. They had over 100 styles of nail clippers and 300 different hairbrushes alone. Proprietor Aldo Lorenzi scoured the world for artisans.
There's nothing wrong with factory production. But as more of our lives get taken over by machines — including art and writing — this sort of production feels special.
Trailer for "A Knife Life," a documentary about the store by my friend Gianluca Migliarotti, available on Vimeo
I spent 15 yrs on a menswear forum. The longest argument I had was over a tiny detail that can be seen in this photo. For 6 months, I argued with the same five guys non-stop every day. The argument got so heated the forum owner banned one guy for life.
As I've mentioned before, there's a lot of coded language in menswear. Navy suits can be worn with black oxfords because this was the uniform of London businessmen. Brown tweeds go with brogues because these clothes were worn in the country. In this way, we get formal vs. casual.
The same is true for shoes. Tiny details come together to communicate something, much like how words form a sentence. Black is more formal than brown; calfskin more formal than suede or pebble grain; plain design is more formal than broguing. All of this stems from history.
The year is 2024 and you're browsing for a new shirt online. You come across a store selling shirts from Portuguese Flannel. You do your research and find they make quality garments: clean single-needle stitching, flat felled seams, quality fabrics, MOP buttons, classic designs
So you go ahead and purchase one. The shop charges 139 Euros and throws in free shipping. Given the exchange rate in 2024, that means you paid $163.19.