In this thread, I will talk about some dos and don'ts of men's tailoring using one of my favorite style icons, George Costanza. 🧵
1. Don't wear suit jackets by themselves
If you do, make sure the jacket can convincingly pass as a sport coat. DeSantis' is obvs wearing a suit jacket bc the fabric is smooth and shiny. George is wearing a slightly textured jacket with brass buttons (making it a blazer).
2. Formal suits should be worn with ties
By formal suit, I mean something you'd wear to a business meeting. Navy or grey, made from a smooth, sometimes shiny wool. These really benefit from having a bit of decoration between the jacket's front edges.
3. Always tuck in your shirt
Casual outfits can go either way, depending on the outfit and the shirt. But outfits that involve traditional tailoring don't look right with an untucked shirt, even in casual iterations such as with chinos or jeans.
4. Don't wear jackets that are too tight
A lot of guys nowadays are wearing jackets that are too small for them. You can check this in a few ways. First, see if you can comfortably fasten the coat. Second, see if you can comfortably hug someone. Should have room for movement.
5. Beware of low-rise trousers
Low-rise pants can work in some aesthetics, but they are rarely good for tailoring. This is partly because you never want your shirt to show beneath the coat's buttoning point when your coat is fastened. Consider high-rise pants—trust me.
6. Don't wear shirts that are too slim
Again, there should be room for movement. An easy way to see if your shirt is too small is to look for lines where the fabric is pulling, especially across the placket. George's shirt here is perfect.
7. Dark top; light bottom
While not a hard rule, you will have more success if you buy dark jackets and light pants. Black or charcoal trousers can be hard to wear in a classic tailored look. Stick to trousers in light grey, mid-gray, and tan, then jackets in brown and navy
8. Beware of collar gaps
A tailored jacket's collar should always hug your neck, even when you're moving. When shopping, if you see the collar lifting off your neck, move on.
9. Check for balance
When trying on a jacket, check to see if the jacket hangs evenly from front to back. Tailors call this "balance." The front can be lower or level with the back, but it should never be higher than the back. This can be a challenge for barrel-chested guys.
10. Don't wear black dress shirts
Especially in dressy materials like a very smooth poplin. If you want to wear a black button-up, try a casual material like a black denim Western shirt or needlecord. Or better yet, a knit like George here. It's more tasteful.
If you enjoyed these looks, it's perhaps worth pointing out that they appeared on television nearly thirty years ago. The fact that George Costanza remains a style icon is a testament to the timelessness of these guidelines. Ignore them at your peril.
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One day, "It" will happen, by which I mean sudden and unexpected news that you want to celebrate. In such cases, you will want the right outfit. 🧵
What do I mean by "It?" I mean that joyous moments are not always something you can plan for. Perhaps you received a pay raise or got accepted at a waitlisted school. Perhaps a loved one is now cancer-free. Such moments can be sudden and unexpected — and you want to be prepared.
Of course, you can always celebrate in the same clothes you wear to bed. But IMO, this diminishes the moment. Thus, it's nice to special outfits for "It," even if you don't wear them all the time. It's similar to toasting a special glass of champagne and drinking water.
In the 1950s, Irving Penn traveled across London, Paris, and NYC to take portraits of workers in their work clothes. These clothes at the time were not considered glamorous — they would not have shown up on fashion runways — but they demonstrate a simple aesthetic principle 🧵
Consider these outfits. How do you feel about them? Are they charming? Repulsive? Stylish?
If you consider them charming and stylish, as I do, then ask yourself: what makes them charming and stylish? Why are you drawn to the outfits?
As I've mentioned before, I think outfits look better when they have "shape and drape." By shape, I mean the outfit confers a distinctive silhouette. If these men took off their clothes, we can reliably guess their bodies would not be shaped like this:
If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.