In this thread, I will talk about some dos and don'ts of men's tailoring using one of my favorite style icons, George Costanza. 🧵
1. Don't wear suit jackets by themselves
If you do, make sure the jacket can convincingly pass as a sport coat. DeSantis' is obvs wearing a suit jacket bc the fabric is smooth and shiny. George is wearing a slightly textured jacket with brass buttons (making it a blazer).
2. Formal suits should be worn with ties
By formal suit, I mean something you'd wear to a business meeting. Navy or grey, made from a smooth, sometimes shiny wool. These really benefit from having a bit of decoration between the jacket's front edges.
3. Always tuck in your shirt
Casual outfits can go either way, depending on the outfit and the shirt. But outfits that involve traditional tailoring don't look right with an untucked shirt, even in casual iterations such as with chinos or jeans.
4. Don't wear jackets that are too tight
A lot of guys nowadays are wearing jackets that are too small for them. You can check this in a few ways. First, see if you can comfortably fasten the coat. Second, see if you can comfortably hug someone. Should have room for movement.
5. Beware of low-rise trousers
Low-rise pants can work in some aesthetics, but they are rarely good for tailoring. This is partly because you never want your shirt to show beneath the coat's buttoning point when your coat is fastened. Consider high-rise pants—trust me.
6. Don't wear shirts that are too slim
Again, there should be room for movement. An easy way to see if your shirt is too small is to look for lines where the fabric is pulling, especially across the placket. George's shirt here is perfect.
7. Dark top; light bottom
While not a hard rule, you will have more success if you buy dark jackets and light pants. Black or charcoal trousers can be hard to wear in a classic tailored look. Stick to trousers in light grey, mid-gray, and tan, then jackets in brown and navy
8. Beware of collar gaps
A tailored jacket's collar should always hug your neck, even when you're moving. When shopping, if you see the collar lifting off your neck, move on.
9. Check for balance
When trying on a jacket, check to see if the jacket hangs evenly from front to back. Tailors call this "balance." The front can be lower or level with the back, but it should never be higher than the back. This can be a challenge for barrel-chested guys.
10. Don't wear black dress shirts
Especially in dressy materials like a very smooth poplin. If you want to wear a black button-up, try a casual material like a black denim Western shirt or needlecord. Or better yet, a knit like George here. It's more tasteful.
If you enjoyed these looks, it's perhaps worth pointing out that they appeared on television nearly thirty years ago. The fact that George Costanza remains a style icon is a testament to the timelessness of these guidelines. Ignore them at your peril.
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵
My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this.
I disagree with this perspective because they always seem to be about forcing the person into one narrow ideal. So if you're short, they tell you how to wear certain things to give the illusion of height. Or if you're heavy, they say how you can dress to hide your weight.
I don't think people such as Hegesth are intentionally choosing to dress like this to signal they're "not like the swamp." I think we're simply in a generational change in terms of taste. Will show some examples. 🧵
A hundred years ago, men's dress was governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social position and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear certain outfits. If you didn't know these rules, a tailor would tell you.
Over the course of the 20th century, these rules loosened, partly because society became more accepting of different social groups and their lifestyles (which is a good thing). By the close of the 20th century, the rise of business casual swept tailoring out of offices
Anthony Constantino, CEO of Sticker Mule, says that he would use a US manufacturer for his company's t-shirts. However, he feels the US company doesn't meet his quality standards and they "must maintain quality."
So what constitutes a quality t-shirt? Let's find out. 🧵
For reference, I'm comparing Sticker Mule's t-shirts (made in Nicaragua) to Bayside Apparel (fully made in the US from fiber to finish). Sticker Mule charges $19 for their t-shirts. Organizations that print on Bayside blanks sell their merch for $27.
I should state at the outset that to properly determine quality, I would need to send these t-shirts to a lab, which I'm unable to do because I don't own a Sticker Mule t-shirt. Additionally, quality can be subjective, as it depends on your preferences.
It's very hard to find a suit jacket that can be worn with jeans, assuming you mean the kind of suits that would be worn for business. Let me show you. 🧵
What do we mean by "suit?" The term suit simply means that the jacket and pants were cut from the same cloth. You can have corduroy suits or linen suits. But when most people say suit, they mean the kind of outfits that would be worn for business, funerals, and court.
Such materials are typically dark in color and slick in feel. Historically, men wore these things with white dress shirts, dark ties, and black oxford shoes to do business in London. This history is why this outfit telegraphs "I'm here for serious business."
I disagree. In this thread, I will tell you what's wrong with Stephen Miller's outfits. Hopefully, this will help you judge whether a suit fits when you're shopping for one. 🧵
For context, here is the video that @FischerKing64 is responding to. Can you spot the issue with this suit?
It appears that Miller has spent a considerable sum upgrading his wardrobe since his time in Trump's first administration. I suspect these are all made-to-measure suits because they look new and come in a wide variety of materials. Unfortunately, all of them exhibit a collar gap.
For reference, the reply is in response to this video, where it appears the majority of people like the right pant better on this person. Why is this?
IG justin__kwan
Most people approach clothing in terms of trends. If skinny or baggy clothes are fashionable at the moment, they go with the crowd. Trends certainly play a role in how we perceive things. Even Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, wore slimmer trousers toward the end of his life.