In this thread, I will talk about some dos and don'ts of men's tailoring using one of my favorite style icons, George Costanza. 🧵
1. Don't wear suit jackets by themselves
If you do, make sure the jacket can convincingly pass as a sport coat. DeSantis' is obvs wearing a suit jacket bc the fabric is smooth and shiny. George is wearing a slightly textured jacket with brass buttons (making it a blazer).
2. Formal suits should be worn with ties
By formal suit, I mean something you'd wear to a business meeting. Navy or grey, made from a smooth, sometimes shiny wool. These really benefit from having a bit of decoration between the jacket's front edges.
3. Always tuck in your shirt
Casual outfits can go either way, depending on the outfit and the shirt. But outfits that involve traditional tailoring don't look right with an untucked shirt, even in casual iterations such as with chinos or jeans.
4. Don't wear jackets that are too tight
A lot of guys nowadays are wearing jackets that are too small for them. You can check this in a few ways. First, see if you can comfortably fasten the coat. Second, see if you can comfortably hug someone. Should have room for movement.
5. Beware of low-rise trousers
Low-rise pants can work in some aesthetics, but they are rarely good for tailoring. This is partly because you never want your shirt to show beneath the coat's buttoning point when your coat is fastened. Consider high-rise pants—trust me.
6. Don't wear shirts that are too slim
Again, there should be room for movement. An easy way to see if your shirt is too small is to look for lines where the fabric is pulling, especially across the placket. George's shirt here is perfect.
7. Dark top; light bottom
While not a hard rule, you will have more success if you buy dark jackets and light pants. Black or charcoal trousers can be hard to wear in a classic tailored look. Stick to trousers in light grey, mid-gray, and tan, then jackets in brown and navy
8. Beware of collar gaps
A tailored jacket's collar should always hug your neck, even when you're moving. When shopping, if you see the collar lifting off your neck, move on.
9. Check for balance
When trying on a jacket, check to see if the jacket hangs evenly from front to back. Tailors call this "balance." The front can be lower or level with the back, but it should never be higher than the back. This can be a challenge for barrel-chested guys.
10. Don't wear black dress shirts
Especially in dressy materials like a very smooth poplin. If you want to wear a black button-up, try a casual material like a black denim Western shirt or needlecord. Or better yet, a knit like George here. It's more tasteful.
If you enjoyed these looks, it's perhaps worth pointing out that they appeared on television nearly thirty years ago. The fact that George Costanza remains a style icon is a testament to the timelessness of these guidelines. Ignore them at your peril.
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IMO, the best way to have these conversations is to start with what inspires you. When it comes to men's tailoring, I think the period between the 1930s and 1980s, especially as these clothes were worn by certain people, is the most beautiful (in the genre of men's tailoring).
If you agree with this, then it helps to understand the underlying principles that make this aesthetic appealing. At its core, this style derived from a period of time when men had wardrobes divided between city and country.
A lot of guys have a hard time accepting that good tailoring is not about making things as slim as possible. When clothes are this tight, they will restrict movement. I suspect this is why a lot of guys say that tailoring is uncomfortable.
A lot of guys should first get it out of their head that slimmer is better. Some outfits can be slim! But the point of tailoring is not always to make things as slim as possible. It's about flattering your body's shape, not recreating it.
To me, Ralph is above the law, so even if I don't care for many of his outfits, I think he's beyond reproach because he's Ralph Lauren. But I'll explain why DeSantis' outfit doesn't work with chinos. 🧵
As mentioned in another thread, when people think of tailoring today, they often think of these suits they see at the mall. These dark worsted suits are what you wear for weddings, funerals, and court appearances.
The term "dark worsted" here refers to these smooth, silky wool fabrics, which sometimes have a bit of sheen. These fabrics should be reserved for suits, which means the jacket should be worn with matching pants.
The phrase "three or four-season dark worsted" refers to the most common type of suit fabric you'll find on the market today. This fabric tells a story about how men's tailoring has narrowed in the last 50 years and why many men find tailoring uncomfortable. 🧵
Back when tailored clothing was more common, there was a great industry supporting it. Which meant that stores carried a larger variety of fabrics. One way in which these fabrics differed was by season.
One of the sad things about the slow death of neckwear is that it coincides with a narrowing of men's tailoring, namely suits. This has resulted in some very unfortunate looks. 🧵
When most people today think of suits, they think of the rows of dark worsted tailoring, mostly made in three- or four-season wools, they see at the dept store. This is the sort of suit you own if you don't wear suits bc it's the standard for weddings, funerals, and court.
But it was not long ago when suits were available in much more variety. Take Reagan, for example, who occupied the White House while wearing suits in tan, brown, and glen plaids (patterns are rarely seen today). He also wore tartan sport coats (unfathomable for a President now)
Rogers is most known for his cardigans, but his attire on the show was actually composed of tailoring (suits, sport coats, and blazers), which he wore when he arrived "home." He then took that off and changed into a cardigan to signal he had "gotten home from work."
When the show was first broadcast in 1968, Rogers wore suits that were popular during that era: American-styled tailoring with no front dart and slightly narrower lapels. It's a look Brooks Brothers made famous. It's also called Ivy Style for its connection to elite US colleges